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Thread: Relining 58 remington

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Well i went ahead and ordered a adjustable reamer. we'll see if i blow it. Figured if i ever get a vaquero I'll use it on that too we'll see.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Only need to go as deep as required to accommodate ball depth. And set up is just about 99.99% of finished product quality.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Ill probably figure in the length of a conical if i find one i like. Pretty much every thing i own is a continuous project.
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 725 View Post
    +1 for Bob Hoyt. He has done several for me and this week I'm going back to pick up two more. Very good mechanic in the re-bore / re-line world.
    Bobby is a great guy and has done a number of barrels for me including an 8 bore.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway!

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  5. #25
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Hey rodwha did you ever get a kaido mold or is that the one you got from tom i remember reading about you tellin a story about getting 500 ftlbs out of either a pietta or a roa. Just curious if you use that load often or if it was just for experimentation purposes. I have very little gadgetry here so i cant do the r&d that id like but this is one of my defensive pistolas and if i need it to it may get called on for a crazy use if i dont happen to have my 5lb bfr hanging off me. Hope not though
    Thanks for the advice your work along with others with c&bs have kept me on track since i cant keep up with everything i got going on around here. I do a lot of other specialty things besides reloading and gunsmithing and have a hard time keeping track of the little things thanks.
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  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I did not get a Kaido mold. I was buying his 240 grn version from him (cast), but he was charging $40/100 + shipping and he later upped it to $50. When I saw a pound of recycled lead piping cost me $1 and I could get a bunch of bullets from that, and I didn’t like the Lee design as I don’t need that much lube and I wanted a wider meplat. So I went to Accurate Molds and worked up several designs.

    What I have found with both revolvers is that they seem to have a more accurate powder charge that doesn’t seem to change despite the projectile I’ve used, which is close to 10 in my ROA and just 3 in my NMA. I will make a few modifications, one being to fill in the excess room with lead. Were it me I’d ream straight down to the bolt stops. If you merely went only as far as a ball it wouldn’t work for longer projectiles.

    Judging by what little data we have I estimate that a weighed 33 grns of 3F Olde E pushing my 195 grn bullet is likely in the 350-425 ft/lb range and the ROA with its favored (weighed) 38 grns and same bullet is probably 400-500 ft/lbs with some claiming in the 600’s but I believe that’s with deepened chambers and ClassicBallistix cylinders that claim an extra 5-10 grns.

    The .45 ACP standard power stuff is pretty acceptable to me, especially with a heavier bullet. But having .45 ACP +P power is always nice. I’ve wanted a CB cylinder for a while now. Something like $250. I have to wonder if the cylinder plays any part in the accurate charge. If not all those cylinders would do is give me more bullet. As is my revolvers can share this modified bullet design making it pretty close to the max amount of lead I can get in there but keeping 1/16” away from the face to keep from gas cutting, a little for a cardboard punched over powder card, and additional space for powder charge variance (I typically use a powder measure).

    For a long time I was at the range at least monthly. I only use my hunting loads. I started at 25 grns as it seemed that should achieve roughly warm .44 Spl performance and I felt that was the absolute minimum for hunting as a sidearm. I worked around looking for what was more accurate and stuck with that which was 30 and 35 grn settings. So this is all they’ve been fed for a good while. I’d estimate at least 400 shots in my NMA but also using my 170 grn version. My ROA easily has double that and some. I don’t believe in practicing with target loads.

    Please report back after you ream your cylinder. I’ve been told the band reamer from Brownell’s works great but then I’ve heard a few say they’ve ruined there’s so it’s given me pause. I’d hate to ruin it.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    I ordered a cheap adjustable reamer its coming out of wy couldnt tell you about any of brownells reamers but i heard midway had some goodones i think it was here is what i found well crap i wont post the link cause its from evilbay but its just a h3 adjustable reamer 7/16-15/32 Close to $20 shipped. I believed they have a slight taper so im not sure if it will work for this but i have other crazy projects that it might be useful for we'll see
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  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Is this a hand reamer or one you attach to a press? Does it come with the appropriate pilot size for a Pietta?

  9. #29
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Just a hand reamer they will chatter if you dig off to far if you force em you will snap the shank off no pilotClick image for larger version. 

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  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    No pilot for a hand reamer? How do you know it’s straight?

    What will you ream the chambers to?

  11. #31
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    They self align
    .453
    Its just a experiment if it works im gonna get 2 more cyls if not then i buy a new cyl then figgure on doing somthin else. This is why i wanted to reline or have a .36 cal barrel bored but im kinda really poor so i decided to go this route
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  12. #32
    Boolit Master
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    Well, I’m like you in that I don’t have a lot of money to do all of the things I like, and a hand reamer is an inexpensive fix that could be used again. Do update once you’ve done this.

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    If i could of got the lathe that i wanted and made a dro for it i would of used the flycutter type or a fluted speaking of a fluted you could turn down the last .5" of the reamer to current size voila cheap piloted reamer
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  14. #34
    Boolit Master arcticap's Avatar
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    A poster on another forum used a similar hand reamer and had to trim 1/4" off the end to be able to ream deep enough.
    He was able to finish 3 of 6 chambers while busting 3 of 6 reamer blades, but the results were good enough to shoot about a 2" group at 25 yards from those 3 finished chambers with round balls.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Yep. I figured i might have to trim it. As far as busting blades you have to take it slow no drills no deep cuts.
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  16. #36
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Well i finally remembered to update i went ahead and reamed the chambers they came out a little bigger than i had hoped 454. It shoots a sight better and seems to have more recoil decided to go out and bust rocks with it a little while ago since i havent shot it in a while still holding up good my only advice is take it slow and cut in small increments or it is easy to go over size.
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  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    Did you have to trim the end to get deep enough?

  18. #38
    Boolit Master Ozark mike's Avatar
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    Nope it went more than deep enough for what i need just wish id of thought about the play in the blades cocking in the slot cause it opened up the holes just a hair bigger. So if ya do this set the blades @ .450 or less and measure a practice hole. Do not set the blades @ .452 because it may come out a little bigger from poor machining of the reamer
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  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy
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    Pietta Shooters Model has .456 chambers an dimensionally is the same as yours.

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master Good Cheer's Avatar
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    Hey there Woodnbow,
    That's an eye opener if the cylinder outside diameter is the same. I've been afraid of reaming chambers to over their barrels groove diameter because of thinning the outer walls. But, then again, I'd be wanting to shoot .45 caliber pistol and revolver molds. Something I had considered was reaming the front and leaving the rear thicker, same as was done with some early cannon designs.
    Say, do you have numbers on the bore and groove diameters Pietta used with the .456 chambers?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check