Sticky cylinder on S&W revolver

[Wild Bill 7]

A friend has a smith revolver that sticks when trying to open the cylinder. Compared to my 686 and don't see any difference when pushing the cylinder release to open it up.
Not sure how to proceed and any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

[Drm50]

Sounds like it needs cylinder assembly removed, taken apart, cleaned and oiled. If nothing is bent that is about all it could be.

[Winger Ed.]

It may be old enough the factory lube is getting gummy.

I too would encourage cleaning it first, and go from there.

[oldracer]

That happens on my model 66, TRR8 and even my 1985 Remington cap and ball revolvers. It is usually a carbon buildup of the cylinder, both ends. I would say hold it up to a light and watch the cylinder gaps when you try to open it. That would show if any crud is in there.
John

[shell70634]

Make sure the ejector rod hasn't un screwed a bit too.

[Outpost75]

Also check front end of center pin, that it hasn't been peened and turned up a burr, which will cause sticky actuation.

Easy fix to disassemble and stone off any burrs then re-assemble. Older center pins pre-about 1970 were not hardened.

[Thin Man]

Check for a build-up of powder between the extractor star and rear face of the cylinder. You may (or not) be able to see this debris so plan to clean that area with a few Q-tips and bore solvent, then dry those surfaces after the cleaning is finished. If this is the source of your binding the results of the cleaning will be immediate.

[Petrol & Powder]

All been said.
Most likely source of problem - Crud under the extractor as Thin Man suggested
Another possibility - Ejector rod slightly unscrewed as shell70634 pointed out
And Outpost75 came up with the "not so obvious" but possible problem and offered a solution

As for debris under the extractor - I'll offer a few points:
Unburned powder and other crud can stick to the bottom of the extractor where it is difficult to see. When you clean the area under the extractor makes sure to clean both the extractor and the cylinder under the extractor.
It helps to keep that area dry and free from grease & oil that will trap unburned powder. After cleaning I fully open the extractor and place a tiny drop of oil on the shaft of the extractor. The goal is to lubricate the extractor but not put enough oil there that will spread to the area under the extractor.
Unloading technique matters. Point the muzzle UP and work the extractor briskly. You don't want bend anything and don't beat on the gun but the goal is to "pop" the casings out not "push" them out. Brisk extraction will reduce the chance of leaving debris under the extractor.

Reloaders are the worst offenders , They hate to see their precious brass fall on the ground. They hold the gun horizontal, slowly push the empty casings out and catch them in their hand.

[Drm50]

The first S&W I had was a K22 when I was a kid. I didn’t have it very long and was with my dad and several of his friends at trap range. We shot up several boxes, guys astounded at accuracy of K22. Back then everyone didn’t have a $100 22 pistol. Anyway cylinder was getting hard to release.
My dad said no more shooting till we see what’s the matter. It was carbon build up on face cylinder.

[smithnframe]

What Shell70634 said.......left hand thread also!

[elk hunter]

If the ejection rod is loose a drill chuck carefully tightened on it and turned by hand can be used to tighten it up without marring the finish.

[Hickok]

Also check front end of center pin, that it hasn't been peened and turned up a burr, which will cause sticky actuation.

Easy fix to disassemble and stone off any burrs then re-assemble. Older center pins pre-about 1970 were not hardened.

I had the same thing happen on my Model 629 4 inch. When opening the cylinder it had just a little "glitch" or "click" feeling before opening. Took the cylinder assembly/crane/yoke apart and the center pin was peened up by the Latch/catch? that is under the barrel.

The latch/catch (don't know correct term) under the barrel seemed very sharp, so I stoned done the sharp tip somewhat, (being careful not to change any of the angles), and also stoned and polished the center pin where it was beat up.

Now it works nice and smooth.

[Rich/WIS]

Be sure to place empty cases in the cylinder before turning on the ejector rod, depending on slop in the fit in the cylinder there is little or no support and you can break or bend the indexing pins on the cylinder. Also check your dash model, originals were right hand thread, believe the change to left hand began with the -2 models.

[KCSO]

Make sure you put in empty cases before you try and turn off the ejector rod and remember left hand thread. Use the right tool and don't use pliers. If it is just sticking trying to open it might be a loose ejector rod that needs to be turned in tight. Use an oli on the assembly that wont gun up CLP is fine.

[Wild Bill 7]

Thanks for all your input. Will get it a good cleaning. Ejector rod is tight, I thought that might be loose also but it wasn't. Thanks again for the replies.

[Petander]

All being said I'd like to add what I found to be my mod 60 binding problem.

I sold a 90's 66 ten years ago,now it came back to the shop and is back home with me. But it had been living with a movie star,I found out it must have been slammed close because the yoke was bent. Like they do on TV you know.

It was binding on a certain position only,like 1/3 turn of the cylinder.

Might want to check that possibility,too.