so I've seen many mods to do but that would be the first/most important mod to do in your opinion. Thanks
so I've seen many mods to do but that would be the first/most important mod to do in your opinion. Thanks
You are right, there are lots of mods you can make. I have tried some of the mods and bought a couple that had some mods already done to them.
I see the following as some of the most beneficial things you can do (not necessarily mods)
1) Reduce friction where possible.
- Polish the bottom of the shell plate and the ribs in the carrier that the shell plate rises on.
- polish the part of the carrier the case slider rides on.
- remove any burrs from the primer feeder parts.
2) Keep it clean. A dirty press can become a nightmare.
- decapping brass off press goes a long way to eliminate the crud that will cause problems.
- take the time to clean the press about every 1000 rounds or so.
3) Know your brass.
- make sure you dont have brass with crimped primer pockets or even worse a piece of brass that uses a Berdan primer.
- decapping off press, removing crimps and cleaning up primer pockets are all part of this. Once you have a batch of brass that you have prepped, dont mix it with unprepped brass.
The above is a good start to having an enjoyable experience with the LoadMaster.
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Last edited by hpdrifter; 06-10-2020 at 12:36 AM.
"What makes you think I care" ........High Plains Drifter
Rick C.
I bought the lee app press at same time so I plan on deprime wet tumble. Then load ive been using a rcbs jr press for years
Timely thread. When I get my cast 9mm loads where I want them I'm getting either a LM or Pro 4000.
One of the used presses I purchased has this model along with the magnets attached to the bottom of the primer arm and the bolt to actuate the primer arm. I was going to try to do this mod to a couple other presses, but I found having the brass prepped reduced my priming issues so I never pursued it after I tried to drill the hole in a broken carrier and failed miserably.
Most of the time that I have a priming issue its becuase I short stroked the press for some reason. Short stroking can happen when a case tips over, a case rim is too thick to feed (happens with some 40 s&w Winchester brass) or the bullet falls out of the feed fingers.
One other mod I recommend is to add lights. There are a couple different styles you can find on Ebay. One is mount in the center of the turret, which requires the center to be knocked out. The other style is the UFO Led strips than adhere to the press frame around the turret. The UFO strips are much brighter.
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Ranger I was going to try one of those cheap USB cameras/endoscope looking for powder charges and do the led no primer mod too
OK, for a light I needed to find a universal as I mount/swap-out presses to same spot on my bench.
I bought/use a "sewing machine" light I bought on Amazon, search it and you'll get many different lights, mine has it's own power supply/mag base/on-off switch and sell for $16 for 2
I put some weight into and empty power jug, taped the cap shut, and put the light on top, it's very portable.
I never liked that the priming on top turned the 5 station press into a 4 station, so that 3 link chain hooked over the primer arm was my attempt at bottom priming
The primer feed escapement made using that chain fiddly to use so I just pre-prime now, and moved the powder measure to station 2.
Size/Prime a few cases when starting off with a progressive and put them aside. You can plug them back into the process when a bad/odd case screws up in the priming station and continue loading.
Mine loaded the best with a Dillon collator and Hornady bullet feeder.
I've done both of those as well.
For the led no primer mod the keys are A) to make sure the led is aligned right under the primer pocket and B) not have too much light from above. After I added the brighter lights to the press to see everything, it was almost impossible to see the LED light coming through the flash hole. I tried various LED's (green, red, etc) and that didnt change anything.
I also have one of the usb/wireless cameras and and a samsung tablet that I have used. One of the big contributors to missed powder charges can be issues with the pull back chain (especially with the auto drum) or using really small charges with certain powders (Titegroup is one that is bad about this). For most calibers I dont use the pull back chain any more, and have all my measures set up with their respective "autoreturn" which has virtually eliminated missed powder charges. The exceptions being calibers such as .38 Special and 356 Mag, where a double charge might not be noticeible I still use the pull back chain and the camera.
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Last edited by ranger391xt; 06-11-2020 at 02:36 PM. Reason: Correction regarding LED No Primer Mod and light from above.
I have watched you video with envy many times. I hate stopping to refill the case and bullet feeders becuase it disrupts my rhythm. I'm collecting parts to make my own case feeder, and maybe someday I'll get a 3d printer and do the bullet feeder.
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I got the 6s shell plate had a buddy machine it to fit the 9mm case perfectly. I'm goin to see how that works
I have had the 1000 the Loadmaster and the auto breech lock pro / pro 4000 they each have advantages but in order of easy to setup and use for me it's the easiest is auto breech lock pro / pro 4000 - 1000 - loadmaster
On all of mine I deprime off press and prime on the press.
Installing a die in the primer station really helped any priming problems I encountered , most of my setups have a expander die in that position .
for lighting, I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and emlarged the hole slightly with a hole saw.
One of the things that helped me with priming on my loadmaster is not so much a mod to the press but using a case for a setup tool take a case and open the flash hole up to the same od as the primer pocket when adjusting the press you can look down through the hole with the case in the shell holder to get perfect alignment with the primer punch.
Not my idea I don't recall where I got it to give credit.
The bolt that adjust the primer depth needs to have the top of the bolt ground flat to remove those little bumps .
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |