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Thread: Casting Booth Design Question

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    115

    Casting Booth Design Question

    Guys,

    I have built a booth in my woodworking shed for casting from 20# pots. I'll still do the scrap smelting / processing outside.

    The booth is built in front of a recycled thermopane window. It has plywood sides and a range hood top that is vented out thru the wall. The vent cut is lined with overlapping galvanized steel ducting. I plan to run a box fan in the only doorway about 16' on the other end of the shed to create positive air pressure inside to help the range hood vent more efficiently to the outside. For the upper half of the front side of the booth I plan to have a couple vertically sliding plexiglass panels.

    Here are my questions. If the Tinsel Fairy pays a visit, is it likely to crack or break the window? Should I shield it with metal screening?

    Also, the front plexiglass panels would be only 1/8" thick (the only thickness currently available). Does anyone know if that will be safe against the Tinsel Fairy? My only other option is to use some tempered glass from old triple-track storm windows.

    Any safety suggestions or experiences would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks, Andy,

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Decatur county, TN
    Posts
    458
    If you're just casting from clean ingots, and they're warm and dry, there won't be a tinsel fairy.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,536
    It would take a pretty large blob to melt thru. It shouldn't break but will "pit" from small splatters, another is fluxing and the smoke may discolor it some. If you can find it use lexon its way tougher than plexi glasses, but will still melt discolor

  4. #4
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,658
    When molten Lead jumps out of the pot it splatters pretty thin and cools real fast.
    If and when it hits that window, it will probably peel back off without damaging it.
    I've had a of couple big splats land on jacket sleeves and blue jean legs.
    They cooled off almost instantly, and peeled off without burning me.

    After having a few visits--- one very dramatic one too, I take better care of myself as far as
    paying better attention to what I'm doing, ventilation, and wearing good safety gear
    like those really good, and comfortable safety glasses.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    StuBach's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    1,135
    Agree with what other have said, the plexus will work fine. I recommend staying with the oleo over the pecan though cause plexus is cheaper to replace when it discolors so it will be cheaper now and in the long run while still giving same protection.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Plymouth County, IA
    Posts
    708
    Well, you can never be too safe, my grandmother used to say. Do what you need to do to feel safe in this hazardous hobby. Don't forget the fire-rated sheetrock. All kidding aside, if you believe it to be dangerous, do what you need to do, to allow you to getting casting without worry...enjoy the hobby. Next, grab a respirator & hazmat suit and try powder coating. I guess I am more concerned about C-19 than lead poisoning.
    Take a kid to the range, you'll both be glad you did.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    115
    Thanks for the responses guys!

    I have some welding protective gear - arm covers and apron. Plus face shield. Also a hot plate for pre-warming ingots, molds, dippers etc.

    Yes, you can never be too safe (within reason). Half my buddies say I'm too careful, the other half say not enough LOL.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check