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Thread: First attempt at making a pot

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    First attempt at making a pot

    What say you guys? I put 12 holes around the bottom ring. Would that be enough? I used an empty helium tank, cut just above the weld joint. The ring was cut from the upper half of the tank. It will be welded eventually, after cleaning off the pinkish paint. After welding, I will use heat proof paint on it.

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  2. #2
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    Looks like a pot to me!

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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    That might just be the prettiest pot I ever saw.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Mold
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    Looks really good. Much better than mine!


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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Now you have to make a permamant wood burning oven for it.

  6. #6
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    So, how are you gonna tip it to empty it?
    Wayne the Shrink

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  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I cut my ring like you did but cut 1 1/2" holes (8) with a hole saw before cutting off. cut 1/4" above center of holes. Thinking was the flames would still work up sides of pot.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Hi Country Gent! that's the kind of information I was hoping to get. Do the 1-1/2" holes work as intended? I drilled my 7/16" holes on a small table top drill press, using a brad point drill bit. I have to admit I never thought of using a hole saw.

    Wayne the Shrink, my plan is to use this pot for rendering lead into ingots. When my ladle can't scoop anymore lead, I think I'll be able to use visegrips to tip the pot, but I'm thinking I should figure out how to attach a bail, or something similar

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I started with a 12" diameter cast iron Dutch oven with a bail. I still needed a pair of pliers on a leg to tilt it. When I got a half propane tank processing pot with a welded in spout, I switched to two pairs of vice grips, which I felt worked just as well and were maybe more secure than the bail and pliers. I do make a point of wearing a leather apron and arm protectors as the pot is closer to my body using the grips.

  10. #10
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    Should work a treat.
    Being a helium tank it should be light as a feather
    Last edited by barrabruce; 06-09-2020 at 04:06 PM.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    The first pot I made was using a Freon tank. It is ok but doesn't hold a bunch of lead. I had a guy at work cut it just above the seam with a band saw.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    I use a 50# cut off Freon tank, made a spout on one side to pour out last of melt. Have never used it though. When alloy gets that low I’ll leave for the next melt to get started.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master

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    I have one just like it. And a spare pink tank just in case! Holds enough lead for me to work on at any one time! I like the holes in the ring on the bottom, might need to do that on the one I have already, but it works good, lightweight also. Good job! Just my .02
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  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Casting Fool, My pot is for casting from and only hold 130 lbs but with my weed burner I can have it molten and ready to cast in 15 mins. Yes from what I see and sense the flames heat seem to follow the pot up the sides.
    The thing that slows my pot is the 8 1 1/2" holes may not be quite enough at the mid point of my 50,000 weed burners temp it starves for air some. dropping burner down a inch or 2 or a couple more holes would help a lot. I also cut the original stand ring off the bottom so flame could flow better.

    In the future I may bend a ring up 4" larger in dia than my pot and 1/2-3/4" shorter than pots height and weld it on to pot with it centered as a heat shield to make sure I get the most of the heat. But ts hard to change whats working so well.

    The reason my pot is this big is for several reasons. 1) more mass makes heat control easier. 2) I/we cast big rifle bullets lightest I cast is 360 grns heaviest is 550 grns. These drain a pot quick. 3) I am mobility/balance impaired as are a couple friends. We cast together for the added safety if something would happen there is someone to get help and aid. The company is really nice also.3 if us around the pot is comfortable 4 is doable but a little crowded. Mitch and I have cast together around my pot also. Its great for teaching / helping a new caster get started.

    With your pot watch what stand you use as it will be on the heavy side for most turkey frier stands. You will want a heavy built sand.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for the word of caution, Country Gent. I use the side burner on my grill to render lead, so I will be testing the set up before I start melting lead. I'm not planning on having marathon casting sessions.

  16. #16
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    Think about using a couple of large C clamps on the rim to aid in poring lead. Six inch clamps work well and does not get too hot. I use them all the time.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by CastingFool View Post
    Hi Country Gent! that's the kind of information I was hoping to get. Do the 1-1/2" holes work as intended? I drilled my 7/16" holes on a small table top drill press, using a brad point drill bit. I have to admit I never thought of using a hole saw.

    Wayne the Shrink, my plan is to use this pot for rendering lead into ingots. When my ladle can't scoop anymore lead, I think I'll be able to use visegrips to tip the pot, but I'm thinking I should figure out how to attach a bail, or something similar
    I just let the remainder cool and dump out the remainder once it is cool. It goes back in the wheel weight bucket and gets melted with the next batch


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  18. #18
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    That's purdy until you grind/sand/burn & wire brush the paint off so you can weld the ring on after a few smelting sessions it will just look like a nice used smelting pot.

    We bent out sections of the ring on the bottom for the flames to lap up the side of the pot instead of drilled holes.



    Last edited by Conditor22; 06-11-2020 at 03:15 PM.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The pink is kinda pretty ... think about leaving it !
    You might start a new trend ... black is getting old .
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  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    That's really nice, Conditor. I'm contemplating doing the same.

    Are the old and new rings flush with each other, or does the new ring stand higher?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check