PM member Ben as I remember him doing both repairs and inletting of gunstocks. he could probably repair your busted thumbhole stock. Frank
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PM member Ben as I remember him doing both repairs and inletting of gunstocks. he could probably repair your busted thumbhole stock. Frank
Bubba probably didn’t do the best inletting either. Haven’t pulled to look underneath yet, but from what I do see I aint impressed....
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If it "keys" back together tightly and you didn't lose any splinters I would try just wood glue, Titebond is my preferred brand.
You are looking for long grain to long grain glue surface. The bottom break looks like you have a fair amount of surface, top break not as much.
Buy a small bottle of Titebond, get a scrap of wood and break it in a similar break. Use it to practice gluing it back together.
Several times.
Wait 24 hours and try breaking the practice glue joints.
I'll bet the wood will fail somewhere other than the glue joint.
And the practice joints will let you see how much glue to apply to get a good squeeze out, and how to clean up the squeeze-out before it sets up. And how to clamp it during cure.
You want ZERO glue on the surface to perhaps interfere with the new finish.
Nothing mars a good tight glue repair as much as glue that won't let the stain/finish penetrate/adhere evenly.
It can be repaired, just takes a little patience and PRACTICE.
Not sure I would try the dowel thing, I've seen where the dowels have pulled things out of alignment and not let the wood fibers line back up more often than not.
Cross grain doweling is also something I try to avoid. Wood moves differently, along the grain as opposed across the grain. And you don't need to get into the wood movement differences between species. Not many people have walnut dowels on their bench.
And I'm not sure you want to get into the brass rod vs wood movement. Those kinds of joints usually come apart over time.
They certainly do here in S.E. Michigan with summer humidity running close to 100% and winter indoor humidity well under half that in the winter with the heat on.
Good luck, hope you get the Swede shooting again, they are fun to shoot, I've got one in original configuration.
I believe it is even factory drilled for peep sights. Just have to find one that fits that doesn't cost twice what I paid for the rifle. It was a garage sale steal.
Your best bet will be to pin and glue it as others have recommended. Take your time and you will get it
Im of a slightly different opinion here. the thin cross section at the break arnt doing to support dowels or pins as well as a solid stock would. I believe I would glue it back together and then find a board as close to matching as possible cut 2 pieces to fit and inlet into stock gluing in place with a snug fit or better yet dovetailed in place. This will allow for much more surface area and leave more wood in the stock to support the repair. A poece of wood 1/2-3/4" wide 3/8 or so Thick and as long as can be used inlet in and then finished to match the stock lines will make a very strong repair. If your worried about is showing make it a decorative shape and let it show.
Pins or dowells will just make it a more difficult task to do. 15 meter and country gent both have good ideas except I trust Acraglas more than wood glues. I fell on a new Ruger 77 in the fall of 1972 and broke it thru the wrist, back of the action and into the magazine box area. I carried 4 pieces of wood out of the woods that day. Not a splinter was missing. I repaired it with Acraglas with no pins of any kind and it is still as good or better than new 48 years later.
You can reinforce the repair after getting it back together as country gent suggested. Then it will probably be stronger than before with good lap joints on the reinforcement pieces.
The break is really jagged, & in the thinnest spot. No pieces or slivers, just the 2. Good surface area. Here’s the break.
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As I said before, scrap wood and glue and practice if you're not used to doing this kind of repair.Originally Posted by fiberoptik
The break is really jagged, & in the thinnest spot. No pieces or slivers, just the 2. Good surface area. Here’s the break.
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I work with wood on a regular basis, I have a fully equipped wood shop to play in so I've got all the stuff I need to do that kind of repair. And they show up fairly regularly, a friend or family member walks in with something "busted" with the can you fix it question.
With out doing it regularly it can be intimidating. That's the reason for the practice, practice, practice recommendation.
What have you got to lose? It's already broken, a bottle of glue is cheap, my only recommendation on what glue NOT to use is gorilla glue, it foams out of the joint and is miserable to clean up. Plus it stains your hands.
And if you do try gluing, go through dry fitting it and clamping it several times to get the process down.
You don't want to get it put together with glue all over it and figure out you need a third hand to tighten the clamp that is still in the drawer because you forgot to get it out. Been there, done that by getting cocky, "this is a simple fix, I'll knock it out in a minute" kind of rush.
And most glues don't need massive clamping forces. A lot of people who are not used to this kind of thing usually over clamp and squeeze out all the glue leaving a glue starved joint.
Tried gluing it yet?I fumbled the ball& dropped my Swede with thumbhole stock. Now I have a Swede pistol
. Help!!!
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Haven’t been able to find my Acraglass yet. Pretty sure it’s in the shed, but which box......!
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One of the tricks I use is to sand the ridges of the broken interior to relieve a few thousands. Being careful not to do the edges of the break so it'll stay crisp. This gives a little clearance for glue.
I'd consider inletting a couple brass dutchmen over the breaks after it was glued back together.
??? Brass Dutchmen? Please explain.
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I think he means little metal plates across the break for reinforcement.
A Dutchman is a term old craftsmen used to use for a "patch".
wow.... i would have to pass with my limited knowledge and find a new stock... i would always be worrying about it in our super wet rain forest...
Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!
I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.
Dutchman is a patch that's inletted across a joint or crack to give it strength. Or to cover a knot or bullet hole as a decoration. It's usually in the shape of an hourglass but can be any shape.
How thick are they? Where are they found?
I was debating running some threaded rod through it if I could. Or maybe some pegs.
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You make them yourself. So they are whatever thickness you want. For wood cracks they are 1/4" or so. For a brass one for your stock I'd try for 3/32 thick brass shim stock. They way you do it is, cut you patch the shape and size you want, with any curvature you need. Then place it where you want and trace it with an exacto knife. Then carefully inlet the spot with a knife and a small chisel. Get the depth close but leave enough so the Dutchman is a touch high so it can be sanded the last thousands to flush. Epoxy it in place after it fits the way you want. You can super glue a small little wood handle on the Dutchman to assist in fitting it so you can get it out of the recess.
There are a lot of waterproof glues out there, the epoxies, Titebond has several waterproof versions.
The advantage of the Titebond glues is you can use water to clean up any squeeze out BEFORE it cures.
All the epoxies or polyurethanes need solvents to clean before cure.
Lots of wood boats/canoes/kayaks are held together with epoxies and no mechanical fasteners.
Look up West System epoxy, I've been using it for 45 years now, buy it by the gallon. Tough stuff.
They’re in Bay City. Was a 1/2 hour from home!
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