Butt stock drilling

[Danth]

What's the best method of drilling a butt stock for a draw bolt?

[Tatume]

I've only made one two-piece stock from scratch, so I'm certainly no expert. What I did was to drill the blank from the rear as deeply as I could with a Forstner bit, and then completed the job with a twist drill to which I had welded an extension. The extended drill bit required careful straightening after welding. Only then did I begin fitting the butt stock to the receiver. That way the location of the hole was not critical.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Set it up on a lathe. A couple of ways to do this. Best way.

Can also do on a drill press by clamping stock to work table turned sideways.



Either way, care in set-up is very important.

[ulav8r]

Lathe is easiest. Mark desired center on each end of the stock, put dead center in tailstock and hold end of stock against that center. Put drill in headstock and start drilling on marked location. Drill half way and then turn stock around to drill other end. Only extend drill enough to reach center and run slow until hole is deep enough to stabilize the bit.

[Bad Ass Wallace]

I drill mine in a lathe

[kywoodwrkr]

6 words and a picture worth a few thousand more.
Good show! Literally.
Thanks BAW.

[Cap'n Morgan]

I once asked a stockmaker the same question. He told me he used hand drills; a power drill from the front for the smaller hole, and then a brace drill from the rear for the larger hole.
"And then you hope and pray the drill doesn't wander..."

I wouldn't trust my own hand/eye coordination for drilling through an expensive piece of walnut, but this guy had a lot of practice.

[James Wisner]

Do all my stock drilling on a lathe between centers all except for the Win 88 and 100 stocks, but that is another story

Look for what they call a Brad Point drill bit, I know Grizzly started to bring them in a few years ago

I have bought Air Craft length 18" long drill bits and reground them into a Brad Point, that type of point wanders less.
Also the Air Craft drill bits are stronger in the long shanks and will not flex as much.

Keep a bit of Linseed Oil handy and as you are drilling the hole lube the drill front with it.
Reduces the noise and really makes a difference.

Most times I put thru the stock a 5/16" or 3/8" pilot hole all the way thru.

Then for the counter bore, look at a Forster type drill bit, I silver solder a pilot onto its nose to follow my pilot hole.
Also have to extend the rear section longer as they are a short 6" long drill.

So once the pilot hole is all the way thru you can come back with the piloted large counter bore drill to the proper depth you need.

J Wisner

[405grain]

Attachment 263289 Attachment 263290
I cheat. Even when drilling between centers I had a drill bit wander and come out through the wrist. I'm trying a different method.

[Tatume]

Attachment 263289 Attachment 263290
I cheat. Even when drilling between centers I had a drill bit wander and come out through the wrist. I'm trying a different method.

Very nice.

[KCSO]

Also don.t try and drill it all the way through at once, stop and clean out the hole and your bit fairly often. I have a hole with a guide pin on the base of my drill press for drilling to a center. Works just like a lathe but a little easier to stop and clean the bit.

[flounderman]

drill it from both ends if you don't have a lathe. Then use redi rod and a nut and washer under the butt pad.

[Mk42gunner]

If you must do it with a hand held electric drill, do not try to use one of the 16-18" long spade bits. I did once and while it kind of worked, the hole drifted about 3/4" to one side.

If I ever have to try that again, I will invest in an 18" long 3/8" ship auger. I feel they drill straighter.

Or just use a brace and bit.

Robert

[beemer]

I have bored several, I have a 3/8 bit that I made for my ML ramrods that is 44" long. A shorter one would work better but that's what I have. The extra length is supported with guide blocks made for each job. Every thing is lined up and leveled on a long heavy board and held down with clamps. Always go slow and remove the chips, also lube with paraffin. I always start at the end with the most critical fit, usually the front. Spade bits don't work good for the first bore through the stock. I do use a spade bit for the draw shoulder but it is reground to make the point a guide. I usually do this after the stock if almost done, makes it easier to get the depth right.

Boring a stock is like a lot of other things, the setup and prep takes much longer than the actual job.

Dave