New Guy

[Cast10]

Howdy! Beginning to lean about casting boolits. Been studying Lyman #4 and this site. I do have a relative loading/casting for BPCR matches. He’s gonna help me out a bit with the hands-on.

I am beginning with my 10mm in a stock Glock 20 and a MechTech carbine. I’m planning on starting with a 6 cavity Lee 175 TC bullet mold. Will also use a Lee 4-20 furnace and ‘bought’ alloy. Not wanting to smelt any lead right now. I will powder coat the boolits once cast.

That said, I was planning on beginning with Lyman #2. Is that a good alloy to use to begin with? I know my relative loads 20:1. I want to begin with something that will offer me the best chance of success; something that will fill out the molds and flow easily. I’m sure I’ll have more questions, but have been reading a ton here. I’m beginning to get ‘doe in the headlights’, so I’m asking questions. Thanks!

[kevin c]

Welcome to the wonderful world of rolling your own!

I've never used it myself, but everything I've read seems to say Lyman #2 is a very good all around alloy and easy to cast. The high tin content, though, makes it expensive to shoot in volume.

Generally, coated cast is considered to allow the use of softer alloys with lower tin and antimony content. For pistol and pistol caliber carbine, a 95-3-2 or 96-3-1 Pb-Sb-Sn alloy, coated, works well. The second can be made of a 3:1 mix of pure lead and Linotype metal, the first from the same plus 1% additional tin, all purchased from Rotometals or other sources. Something to consider after starting out and getting comfortable casting with #2.

It's great that you have a mentor to help out. Reading here and on the LASC site helps a lot too. Please don't hesitate to ask questions: we were all beginners as one time and probably had the same questions you will have; the experiences the wise heads here can share will make things much easier and faster for you.

Are you also new to reloading? You'll be shooting more for the same money very soon (experience tells against the notion that you'll actually spend less ;^]).

[buckwheatpaul]

Howdy and welcome from NE Texas....you will learn a wealth of information from a great bunch of men and women!

[marek313]

Welcome.

This is a great place to learn and you can find pretty much every answer through the archives or new posts. You shouldnt have any problems with that Lee 175TC i use it in my 10mm 1911 and they work great and I know many others do as well. I'm glad you chose 40 cal to learn on and not 9mm. With PC you shouldnt have any problems loading for your 10mm.

[Conditor22]

Welcome to CB

Lyman #2 will work but might be harder than is needed. (you can figure that out as you go)

I'm sending you some information and links that should help you get started

[2A-Jay]

Welcome

[Cast10]

Thanks. Not new to reloading. Over 40 years reloading pistol and rifle cartridges.
Thanks for the links, etc.

[Cast10]

What would y’all think about 20:1 with PC for 10mm? Velocities 1100-1200 range. 175-180gr.

[lightman]

Welcome Aboard!

I'll 2nd everything Kevin C and the others posted above. Lyman #2 is a fantastic alloy to cast with but like the others said, the high % of tin makes it expensive. But it would make a good starting point.

Start scrounging for scrap lead now. Its still out there but its getting harder to find. Networking works. Ask your friends, family and co-workers to be on the lookout for you. Watch for bargains on Pewter and Solder to use as a source to tin.

[Murphy]

Welcome Cast10, good to have you join us.

Lyman #2 is a great alloy, but I have to agree with others about it being a little more on the expensive side. Another term to beware of is hard cast. Harder, is not always better. Seeing as you will be buying your alloy for now, I would lean towards purchasing in limited amount until you find which alloy best suits your needs.

Enjoy, and again...welcome aboard.

Murphy

[smithnframe]

Welcome from Shiner! Where in Texas are you?

[Bantou]

Welcome from central TX. There are some great minds here that have forgotten more about casting than most of us will ever know. The sticky sections are your friend, treat them like a FAQ section.


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[Cast10]

Hello to all and thanks for having me. I guess I’ll stick to #2 to start with.

[Bazoo]

Howdy and welcome.

I don't have experience loading 10mm but I think if you're PCing you'd be alright with 20-1. Wheel weights is worth looking for. You don't have to smelt in a separate pot. What you run into is, less consistency in the alloy (which won't make any difference for pistol plinking) and gumming up your bottom pour pot. The latter you can mitigate by thorough fluxing and scraping the pot. Your relative should have some sort of smelting gear that he'd likely let you use to start however.

[psweigle]

I pc 357 magnum, and shoot it in carbine and revolvers and the coonan 1911. I use whatever scrap lead I can get my hands on, size them all to .358, and PC them. I'm not shooting competitions or trying to set new shooting records. I would say that to start off with, lyman #2 will be fine.
I can say with all honesty, my 357 pc scrap lead boolits shoot the same or better,(depends on who is pulling the trigger ) than factory rounds, and at the same or better speeds.

[Plate plinker]

The PC helps a bunch with the leading and gas cutting at higher velocity. Where it fails who knows in your application. Just experiment and find out. Myself I run what ever alloy I have around and have been very fortunate that it always works out. Sizing seems to be the key for me in getting accurate loads.

[Cast10]

Thanks guys. I’m loading 10mm for hogs. Penetration is my main thing. Some are over 250 with an occasional 300+.

Thanks for all the info and recommendations. Been reading so much, I feel overloaded! Ha! Will go visit relative tomorrow to begin my journey! I know he is an ace as he shoots competition, so will be getting good dope! Thanks again all!