WidenersLee PrecisionRotoMetals2Titan Reloading
Inline FabricationADvertise hereRepackboxMidSouth Shooters Supply

Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: Sticky cylinder on S&W revolver

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Wild Bill 7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    S.W. Florida
    Posts
    201

    Sticky cylinder on S&W revolver

    A friend has a smith revolver that sticks when trying to open the cylinder. Compared to my 686 and don't see any difference when pushing the cylinder release to open it up.
    Not sure how to proceed and any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    1,806
    Sounds like it needs cylinder assembly removed, taken apart, cleaned and oiled. If nothing is bent that is about all it could be.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    2,568
    It may be old enough the factory lube is getting gummy.

    I too would encourage cleaning it first, and go from there.
    It wasn't playing the blame game, finding fault, and complaining about every little thing that made America great.
    It was God, guns, and guts.


    OK folks. Enough of this idle chit-chat. This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE !!
    Get back to your oars. The Captain wants to water ski.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Chula Vista, CA
    Posts
    1,045
    That happens on my model 66, TRR8 and even my 1985 Remington cap and ball revolvers. It is usually a carbon buildup of the cylinder, both ends. I would say hold it up to a light and watch the cylinder gaps when you try to open it. That would show if any crud is in there.
    John

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
    shell70634's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    SW Louisiana
    Posts
    199
    Make sure the ejector rod hasn't un screwed a bit too.
    "EXPERT= Ex is a has been, spurt is a drip under pressure" Unknown

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    over the hill, out in the woods and far away
    Posts
    8,139
    Also check front end of center pin, that it hasn't been peened and turned up a burr, which will cause sticky actuation.

    Easy fix to disassemble and stone off any burrs then re-assemble. Older center pins pre-about 1970 were not hardened.
    The ENEMY is listening.
    HE wants to know what YOU know.
    Keep it to yourself.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    East TN
    Posts
    1,010
    Check for a build-up of powder between the extractor star and rear face of the cylinder. You may (or not) be able to see this debris so plan to clean that area with a few Q-tips and bore solvent, then dry those surfaces after the cleaning is finished. If this is the source of your binding the results of the cleaning will be immediate.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Central Virginia
    Posts
    6,648
    All been said.
    Most likely source of problem - Crud under the extractor as Thin Man suggested
    Another possibility - Ejector rod slightly unscrewed as shell70634 pointed out
    And Outpost75 came up with the "not so obvious" but possible problem and offered a solution

    As for debris under the extractor - I'll offer a few points:
    Unburned powder and other crud can stick to the bottom of the extractor where it is difficult to see. When you clean the area under the extractor makes sure to clean both the extractor and the cylinder under the extractor.
    It helps to keep that area dry and free from grease & oil that will trap unburned powder. After cleaning I fully open the extractor and place a tiny drop of oil on the shaft of the extractor. The goal is to lubricate the extractor but not put enough oil there that will spread to the area under the extractor.
    Unloading technique matters. Point the muzzle UP and work the extractor briskly. You don't want bend anything and don't beat on the gun but the goal is to "pop" the casings out not "push" them out. Brisk extraction will reduce the chance of leaving debris under the extractor.

    Reloaders are the worst offenders , They hate to see their precious brass fall on the ground. They hold the gun horizontal, slowly push the empty casings out and catch them in their hand.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    1,806
    The first S&W I had was a K22 when I was a kid. I didn’t have it very long and was with my dad and several of his friends at trap range. We shot up several boxes, guys astounded at accuracy of K22. Back then everyone didn’t have a $100 22 pistol. Anyway cylinder was getting hard to release.
    My dad said no more shooting till we see what’s the matter. It was carbon build up on face cylinder.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    South Texas
    Posts
    560
    What Shell70634 said.......left hand thread also!

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
    elk hunter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Central Oregon
    Posts
    1,151
    If the ejection rod is loose a drill chuck carefully tightened on it and turned by hand can be used to tighten it up without marring the finish.
    BIG OR SMALL I LIKE THEM ALL, 577 TO 22 HORNET.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

    Hickok's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    High mountains of WV
    Posts
    2,755
    Quote Originally Posted by Outpost75 View Post
    Also check front end of center pin, that it hasn't been peened and turned up a burr, which will cause sticky actuation.

    Easy fix to disassemble and stone off any burrs then re-assemble. Older center pins pre-about 1970 were not hardened.
    I had the same thing happen on my Model 629 4 inch. When opening the cylinder it had just a little "glitch" or "click" feeling before opening. Took the cylinder assembly/crane/yoke apart and the center pin was peened up by the Latch/catch? that is under the barrel.

    The latch/catch (don't know correct term) under the barrel seemed very sharp, so I stoned done the sharp tip somewhat, (being careful not to change any of the angles), and also stoned and polished the center pin where it was beat up.

    Now it works nice and smooth.
    Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting.

    WWG1WGA!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    SE Kentucky
    Posts
    706
    Be sure to place empty cases in the cylinder before turning on the ejector rod, depending on slop in the fit in the cylinder there is little or no support and you can break or bend the indexing pins on the cylinder. Also check your dash model, originals were right hand thread, believe the change to left hand began with the -2 models.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bloomfield, Nebraska
    Posts
    5,812
    Make sure you put in empty cases before you try and turn off the ejector rod and remember left hand thread. Use the right tool and don't use pliers. If it is just sticking trying to open it might be a loose ejector rod that needs to be turned in tight. Use an oli on the assembly that wont gun up CLP is fine.

  15. #15
    Boolit Buddy Wild Bill 7's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    S.W. Florida
    Posts
    201
    Thanks for all your input. Will get it a good cleaning. Ejector rod is tight, I thought that might be loose also but it wasn't. Thanks again for the replies.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Petander's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,671
    All being said I'd like to add what I found to be my mod 60 binding problem.

    I sold a 90's 66 ten years ago,now it came back to the shop and is back home with me. But it had been living with a movie star,I found out it must have been slammed close because the yoke was bent. Like they do on TV you know.

    It was binding on a certain position only,like 1/3 turn of the cylinder.

    Might want to check that possibility,too.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check