How best to deal with carbon ring when shooting specials in a magnum cylinder?

[Bazoo]

Thanks for the suggestions pocketace. I tried the chore boy trick but couldn't get it tight enough in the chamber. When using it in the barrel I start it at the forcing cone, threading the brush onto the rod with the rod down the bore and the brush in the frame opening. This gives me a cone of chore boy to scrub the forcing cone and then super tight in the bore.

[pocketace]

ive found that the chore boy compresses down after a few passes through the barrel no matter what end i start with. At the moment, i started my bore brush with the technically listed "8" inches" long strand wrapped on a 38 special PISTOL BRUSH... those are short. as it has compressed down, i estimate i have about 5 of those 8" strands wrapped on it, and it is LOOSE in the barrel until i wrap a patch on it.

the lewis system seems a good idea in effort and time savings. but i have chore boy and im CHEAP.

[Burnt Fingers]

ive found that the chore boy compresses down after a few passes through the barrel no matter what end i start with. At the moment, i started my bore brush with the technically listed "8" inches" long strand wrapped on a 38 special PISTOL BRUSH... those are short. as it has compressed down, i estimate i have about 5 of those 8" strands wrapped on it, and it is LOOSE in the barrel until i wrap a patch on it.

the lewis system seems a good idea in effort and time savings. but i have chore boy and im CHEAP.

Brass pipe screens.

Just use a jag, or if a tighter fit is needed/desired place a patch over the jag then place the pipe screen on the jag.

200 screens for $7 https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Brass-...b-8a79de2d236f

[Patrick L]

I use those Brownell's stainless chamber brushes too. True, when new they require a bit of elbow grease, but they break in and it gets easier. Use a substantial rod too, with a decent handle you can get a hold on. Like many others, I too feel that the fouling is "softer" when it is fresh, so I generally brush it out right at the range, when I'm packing the gun up.

I will occasionally use an older brush (one that is well worn in) with a cordless drill and a bit of Kroil to get things spotless. But by occasionally I mean maybe two or three times a year.

[Wally]

Best to use 1" diameter brass pipe screen, especially in bigger than .38 Calibers...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/100-America...cAAOSwDdxenh~h

Brass pipe screens.

Just use a jag, or if a tighter fit is needed/desired place a patch over the jag then place the pipe screen on the jag.

200 screens for $7 https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Brass-...b-8a79de2d236f

[Bazoo]

Preciate the brass pipe screen idea. I have taken to using a drill with the stainless brush a few times but being leery about wear from it I switched to a bronze 40 caliber brush, and since I've been keeping it under control, it's been quite effective.

I always use a rod with a fixed handle, so I can spin the rod. I take a cleaning rod section or a hoppes pistol rod and remove the handle, then I bend a hook on the end for a handle.

One thing I'm looking for is a field expedient method that doesn't involve a drill or something complicated. The stainless or bronze brush doesn't fit this because it takes so many spins to remove the ring. It takes 2 minutes with a drill and an hour by hand.

[JohnRoc65]

Hoppes Elite is expensive but it does the job for me.

[44MAG#1]

You probably don't want to hear from me but the best remedy is not use short brass. I rarely use 44 Special brass preferring to seat deep in 44 Magnum cases. I use the Lyman 429421 "KEITH" and loosely use the term "KEITH" seated to 1.565" with the Skeeter Skelton 44 Special load or an equivalent load. Can do the same deep seating in a 357 Mag case too. Load the same OAL for the 38 Special and use 38 Special loads.
Sometimes the best thing to do isn't always the best to do just to save money. I've found that out the hard way.

[Three44s]

That’s me with the 44mag.

I use Mag cases loaded at different power levels and own no 44spl brass.

In 357 however, I have way more 38 spl. Brass so 38’s get fired in my 357s.

Hence my earlier post about JB Bore paste to polish the internals and Corrosion X to close up the pores of the steel enough to greatly reduce the recruitment of more fouling.

Three44s

[Slugster]

I bought a Lewis Lead Remover in 1983 and it is one of the best ways to remove leading that I have found. Use it, then normal cleaning and oiling, and you are good to go.

[Murphy]

I'm with Groo on his solution. I've never tried a bore snake before though. I started long ago with the Lewis Lead Remover, it worked great. Later down the road, I decided instead of worrying with it, I'd just start brushing out the cylinders every 4-5 times I'd fired rounds through them. Brownell's use to sell a product called Double Tuff brushes. I think they had about twice the amount of bristles a standard brush has. I know it may seem impractical to some to brush out the cylinders that often, but it does job for me.

Murphy

[DougGuy]

The 800 grit flex hone is advertised to be for cleaning carbon out of cylinders. I don't have any personal experience with this...yet. I plan to though.

The flex hone will make it glossy but you will be disappointed thinking it will remove it all. I use a small cup brush in a dremel tool and it is a PITA no matter how you do it.

Another thing you can use is a worn finishing reamer it will get the carbon but not ruin the cylinder if it's too dull to take a bite.