I have stopped using 38's in my smith's but when I did I would use a piece of 357 brass and gently tap it into the cylinder. Seemed to work well at scraping out the crud.
I have stopped using 38's in my smith's but when I did I would use a piece of 357 brass and gently tap it into the cylinder. Seemed to work well at scraping out the crud.
When I do shoot 38 or 44 specials in magnum revolvers I give them a spray of Ballistol when done shooting. A over sized brass brush in a drill takes any carbon ring out in seconds.
For stubborn carbon build up on stainless revolvers (not blue), a little Easy Off oven cleaner works. Wear rubber gloves and use it out doors.
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There's a tool for that!
http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1713
NRA Benefactor.
Burnt fingers, have you used that tool?
I just ordered two of those, one in .357 and one in .45 Colt. Will let you know what I think.
Don
NRA Certified Metallic Cartridge Reloading Instructor
NRA Life Member
I have shot bajillions of 38 special rounds in 357 revolvers and never had a problem if I simply clean the gun using normal methods after shooting. Something has gone wrong if you have to bust out a flex hone.
When I was shooting PPC we always used a Lewis Lead Remover for the really tough stuff followed by a stainless steel Tornado Brush (https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...-prod9791.aspx)
If using a standard brass cleaning brush I always go oversize (.40 - .44 cal for a .357/.38, .45 cal for a .44/.44 spl). They wear out quicker but the extra diameter goes a good job getting out the bad stuff.
Most of us actually had a cleaning rod that had a head on it that would hold 6 brushes at once, thus cleaning all chambers at the same time. We used them in between stages to help keep our guns clean. I believe you can still get these.
Those Uniquetek tools look interesting.
Last edited by Xringshooter; 06-03-2020 at 09:21 AM.
Ron
USAF Ret (E-8) (1971-1997)
NRA Benefactor
Another vote for Kroil..
An overnight soak in Kroil, followed by a vigorous scrub with the next size larger brush usually does the trick for me. For 22 LR’s shot with 22 Shorts I use a nylon brush with JB Bore. For my Single Six cylinder I will chuck the nylon brush in a cordless drill.
As mentioned already, regular cleaning will “generally” make things a lot easier to get rid of the crud ring in the long run. Some powder/lube combos make things worse though. Titegroup leaves pretty bad fouling in my experience.
I appreciate the ideas and tips.
What about shooting both specials and magnums together? Does this compound the problem at all? I've noticed that after shooting some specials, if I switch to magnums I can chamber them with resistance and after firing it seems to have removed the fouling enough that chambering of magnums continues to be easy. But I'm concerned that doing this embeds the fouling more.
In the past I've either shot magnums first, or only one or the other. I'm thinking if I shoot a box or two of specials, using an expanded case on the range would suffice when switching back to magnums. I want to avoid breaking out the brushes and solvents in the middle of shooting if I can.
What about an ultrasonic cleaner, has anyone tried that? Ive been eyeing the one at Harbor Freight with revolver cylinders in mind. Be pretty simple to just remove the cylinder and plop it in the cleaner for awhile.
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Unless the cylinder was disassembled fully, wouldn't it eventually wear things like the extractor and lock on the yoke on a GP100.
Slip 2000 Carbon Killer is one of THE BEST carbon solvents available. If needed, it comes very highly recommended.
http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_carbon_killer.php
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I gave into the temptation to use .38 cases a few times just because I had a lot of them sitting around. They got a lot of range time cause at our shooting sessions the wives liked shooting the .38 loads. Then I ran into the issue of not being able to fire .357 after they were done shooting. I have never had a problem cleaning out the crud ring with Ed's Red.
My solution was to give away all the .38 brass and buy some more .357 brass. I wait until .357 ammo goes on sale and I buy the ammo, shoot it and save the brass. I sort out the nickel plated and plain cases and use the nickel plated for full magnum loads, brass cases for reduced loads.
What I want to know is why is there a down side to shooting? I love shooting revolvers cause I don't have to police up my brass. But it is like cleaning six pistols with all the chambers. I shoot semi-autos and they are easy cleaning but I have to crawl around to pick up all the brass at the range. I shoot rifles and there isn't much problem with brass or cleaning, but, it is a LOT further walking out to the targets. Yep, I have quite a few first world problems, don't I. LOL
PS I actually love all of it
Thanks for all the responses. I have only one batch of 357 brass that is over 100 pieces that are all the same, winchester nickel plated.
So I sorted all the brass my buddy left me over the last 5 years. Only two boxes of it were the same I guess, PPU brand. So I tumbled it and sized it. I went to trim it and danged if you wouldn't know it, it's all .005 or so short of the trim suggestion. So I either can trade it off or hope a few magnum loadings will grow it.
On the upside, I did get a fresh batch of 250-300 38 special R-P headstamps started.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |