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Thread: How best to deal with carbon ring when shooting specials in a magnum cylinder?

  1. #21
    Boolit Bub
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    I have stopped using 38's in my smith's but when I did I would use a piece of 357 brass and gently tap it into the cylinder. Seemed to work well at scraping out the crud.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    When I do shoot 38 or 44 specials in magnum revolvers I give them a spray of Ballistol when done shooting. A over sized brass brush in a drill takes any carbon ring out in seconds.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master
    rintinglen's Avatar
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    For stubborn carbon build up on stainless revolvers (not blue), a little Easy Off oven cleaner works. Wear rubber gloves and use it out doors.
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master


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    There's a tool for that!

    http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1713
    NRA Benefactor.

  5. #25
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Burnt fingers, have you used that tool?

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I just ordered two of those, one in .357 and one in .45 Colt. Will let you know what I think.

    Don
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  7. #27
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    Burnt fingers, have you used that tool?
    I have not. I don't shoot 44 spl and only shoot 38 in my 38's.
    NRA Benefactor.

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have shot bajillions of 38 special rounds in 357 revolvers and never had a problem if I simply clean the gun using normal methods after shooting. Something has gone wrong if you have to bust out a flex hone.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy Xringshooter's Avatar
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    When I was shooting PPC we always used a Lewis Lead Remover for the really tough stuff followed by a stainless steel Tornado Brush (https://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...-prod9791.aspx)

    If using a standard brass cleaning brush I always go oversize (.40 - .44 cal for a .357/.38, .45 cal for a .44/.44 spl). They wear out quicker but the extra diameter goes a good job getting out the bad stuff.

    Most of us actually had a cleaning rod that had a head on it that would hold 6 brushes at once, thus cleaning all chambers at the same time. We used them in between stages to help keep our guns clean. I believe you can still get these.

    Those Uniquetek tools look interesting.
    Last edited by Xringshooter; 06-03-2020 at 09:21 AM.
    Ron
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  10. #30
    Boolit Master
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    Another vote for Kroil..

  11. #31
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    An overnight soak in Kroil, followed by a vigorous scrub with the next size larger brush usually does the trick for me. For 22 LR’s shot with 22 Shorts I use a nylon brush with JB Bore. For my Single Six cylinder I will chuck the nylon brush in a cordless drill.

    As mentioned already, regular cleaning will “generally” make things a lot easier to get rid of the crud ring in the long run. Some powder/lube combos make things worse though. Titegroup leaves pretty bad fouling in my experience.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I appreciate the ideas and tips.

    What about shooting both specials and magnums together? Does this compound the problem at all? I've noticed that after shooting some specials, if I switch to magnums I can chamber them with resistance and after firing it seems to have removed the fouling enough that chambering of magnums continues to be easy. But I'm concerned that doing this embeds the fouling more.

    In the past I've either shot magnums first, or only one or the other. I'm thinking if I shoot a box or two of specials, using an expanded case on the range would suffice when switching back to magnums. I want to avoid breaking out the brushes and solvents in the middle of shooting if I can.

  13. #33
    Boolit Man
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    What about an ultrasonic cleaner, has anyone tried that? Ive been eyeing the one at Harbor Freight with revolver cylinders in mind. Be pretty simple to just remove the cylinder and plop it in the cleaner for awhile.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  14. #34
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Unless the cylinder was disassembled fully, wouldn't it eventually wear things like the extractor and lock on the yoke on a GP100.

  15. #35
    Boolit Grand Master tazman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    I appreciate the ideas and tips.

    What about shooting both specials and magnums together? Does this compound the problem at all? I've noticed that after shooting some specials, if I switch to magnums I can chamber them with resistance and after firing it seems to have removed the fouling enough that chambering of magnums continues to be easy. But I'm concerned that doing this embeds the fouling more.

    In the past I've either shot magnums first, or only one or the other. I'm thinking if I shoot a box or two of specials, using an expanded case on the range would suffice when switching back to magnums. I want to avoid breaking out the brushes and solvents in the middle of shooting if I can.
    Though I have never tried it, what you describe should work fine.

  16. #36
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShooterAZ View Post
    I use a nylon brush with JB Bore. .
    JB Bore Cleaner has always worked wonders for me. Leaves the bore spotless and beautiful.
    I have a M-66 I shot a lot of .38s in and I got lazy and the crud did build up. JB and the usual Hoppe's did the trick.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master
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    Slip 2000 Carbon Killer is one of THE BEST carbon solvents available. If needed, it comes very highly recommended.

    http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_carbon_killer.php
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  18. #38
    Boolit Master
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    I gave into the temptation to use .38 cases a few times just because I had a lot of them sitting around. They got a lot of range time cause at our shooting sessions the wives liked shooting the .38 loads. Then I ran into the issue of not being able to fire .357 after they were done shooting. I have never had a problem cleaning out the crud ring with Ed's Red.

    My solution was to give away all the .38 brass and buy some more .357 brass. I wait until .357 ammo goes on sale and I buy the ammo, shoot it and save the brass. I sort out the nickel plated and plain cases and use the nickel plated for full magnum loads, brass cases for reduced loads.

    What I want to know is why is there a down side to shooting? I love shooting revolvers cause I don't have to police up my brass. But it is like cleaning six pistols with all the chambers. I shoot semi-autos and they are easy cleaning but I have to crawl around to pick up all the brass at the range. I shoot rifles and there isn't much problem with brass or cleaning, but, it is a LOT further walking out to the targets. Yep, I have quite a few first world problems, don't I. LOL

    PS I actually love all of it

  19. #39
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the responses. I have only one batch of 357 brass that is over 100 pieces that are all the same, winchester nickel plated.

    So I sorted all the brass my buddy left me over the last 5 years. Only two boxes of it were the same I guess, PPU brand. So I tumbled it and sized it. I went to trim it and danged if you wouldn't know it, it's all .005 or so short of the trim suggestion. So I either can trade it off or hope a few magnum loadings will grow it.

    On the upside, I did get a fresh batch of 250-300 38 special R-P headstamps started.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSD MIke View Post
    I have shot bajillions of 38 special rounds in 357 revolvers and never had a problem if I simply clean the gun using normal methods after shooting. Something has gone wrong if you have to bust out a flex hone.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check