I'm done too...

[Burnt Fingers]

We may be on different pages here. When I say "flat" I'm referring to less recoil/muzzle rise.

That normally called flip.

[trixter]

Since I received my Springfield Armory 9mm XDs I have been shooting Lee 358-105 SWC powder coated with Eastwood Ford Light Blue, and sized at .356. I use 4.3 to 4.5 gr of Unique, and love the results. I have tried other powders and did not care for the results. It is not a tack driver, but with 4" groups at 12 to 15 yards I am happy. It is not a Match grade gun so it is what I need to defend myself.

[gwpercle]

Here are the answers to my 9mm Luger problems ;
1.) CH Steel reloading dies ... don't use carbide Lee die... they oversize the tapered case .
2.) Bullet mould - NOE-358-124-TC-GC , size to .357 with the gas check installed .
3.) 50-50 COWW & soft lead , air cooled .
4.) 4.7 grains Unique , 15 shots go into one ragged hole 1 1/4" wide X 2" tall .

I'm 70 and blind in one eye & glaucoma affects my up and down spread . If my eye was better I'm sure I could get 15 shots into a 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" group . Shot from bench at 50 feet , indoor range .
Pistol is WWII Walther P38 1944 issue ... not exactly a target tack driver .
But the secrete is a gas check , NOE expander plud and tapered steel sizing die ... not a carbide die.
Gary

[1006]

I would drop the charge down to give about 900 FPS and see how it performs.

[waco]

My go to load for my CZ SP 01 is the Lee 120tc powder coated and sized to .358” over 4.0gr Universal. I agree with others that 9mm and .223 can be very challenging.

[bangerjim]

Even with that scattered pattern, the "guy" on the target end is DEAD.....and you are not. Most stock 9's will shoot like that. 2 of mine do, but I am happy with their pattern at 12-15 yards. They will get the job done, if needed for personal protection.

For better groupings I use my XDM match grade barrel 40 S&W. Now that little thing lays down a good group at 15+ yards.

I shoot mostly PC cast in those guns.

[tryingalot]

mix some snapcaps into your magazine, loading it with your eyes shut, and watch your front sight, to see if you're twitching the gun when you hit the snapcaps. You can develope a flinch with a certain gun, cause it "bit" your hand or you didnt have your ear pro in, and not have that flinch show up with other guns. Have somebody film your face from the side as you fire, to see if you're batting your eyes.

This is why so many of us use 147 gr swc's, 150 or 160 gr lrn's in 9mm. so we can hold the velocity down to 850 fps, and not have the bullet "jumping" the rifling. 9mm rifling is very shallow in a lot of guns. If your lead alloy and lube are not just right, 1000 fps causes problems in 9mm

I will not accept larger than 2" groups at 10 yds, not even from my pocket gun. Something is very wrong with any load/gun/shooter combo that can't produce that. The reality of combat, tho, is that only the coldest of pros has ever proven that they can reliably hit a 12" mark at 25m, while they are actually being fired-upon. Now, for shtf, you might be forced to get a replacement longarm, by ambushing somebody with your handgun, using a braced firing position and hearing protection, at such distances, but for "normal times " self defense, and normal people, what happens is you miss the chest with half of your shots at 20 ft. So for realistic shooting practice, even 4" groups at 10 yds is acceptable, but I compete and hunt and I want a lot more accuracy than that.

[tomme boy]

Do this. Find 20 or so pieces of brass that are the longest you have. Then trim all to the same length. Now use them only to do a few work ups. 9mms seem to like the longest brass you can find. Hopefully they are all the same headstamp asd well. If this does not work then you have other problems

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

mvintx,
There is a lot of suggestions in this thread, and they seem all over the map.
Now, whether you take a temporary break or not, I would keep at it, especially since your gun in your hands is a 2" - 12yd gun with jacketed, then it will be that with cast.

My first thought was very much like what MT Gianni posted. Use a fast powder and start with low powder charges, but enough to reliably cycle the gun, then work up, to where accuracy gets bad, or to where you achieve the speed you desire. I like Bullseye powder with the NOE 128gr SWC (it's looks more like a TC than a SWC, but NOE calls it a SWC) in 9mm. Red Dot should probably be good to, But I always steer clear of Red Dot with small powder drops, Bullseye pours so much more consistent.

One extra thing, probably isn't it? But "IF" your problem is with your PC consistency, I can't help much there, I use traditional lube for all my 9mm boolit ammo. I only mention this, because I have had problems with PC boolits in semi-auto pistols. I've never PC'd boolits myself, but I have swapped for them and wasn't pleased with my results.
Good Luck.

9mm and 223 are not a good start for many who start out casting. I would try low velocities with fast powder, ie, Bullseye at 900 fps.
Take this how you will but I have never fired a Glock and have no desire to. [I currently have over 20 pistols] I had a Ruger P-89 that would not shoot but I believe that was due to trigger pull issues. My CZ shoots well with a 120-135 gr and 4 gr AA2, I haven ever shot a 9 with tumble lube and got a decent group. I would get it as slow as possible and gradually increase velocities to where your groups open up. It may be you have a 1000 fps gun with cast. It may be less that you top out at.

[cwlongshot]

I have been casting as much as many here and never ever had issues with hand guns. Rifles can be more difficult as pressures raise. The harder ya push things the faster the limitations of the cast come to Light.

Maybe im lucky maybe I had a better teacher who knows. But know its something your doing as many of us have no problems. Look outside the box. Good luck

CW