Secret picked up to pass inspection with a Model 66 while in the academy was the old grey ink eraser. It worked rather well without too much scrubbing. It should be noted that it is still an abrasive. Once out of the academy I didn't bother.
Penetrating oil, a bronze brush, and 10 or so minutes of work. :/
Natures way of tightening up that cylinder/barrel gap.
Hi all,
I know there were lot's of "let it go, don't worry about it..." responses, but to me, it just seems like my BFR just isn't clean with the carbon fouling on the cylinder. At first, I used Barkeeper's Friend and a green scrubbie pad, which worked great. Then, I saw a YouTube video where the gentleman used Mother's Chrome polish, and voilà! It really works well. Just remember, stainless only!
Ed
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!
I used Flitz on my first stainless revolver a few times, but then as others have agreed to "Indifference shall set you free."
The only time I would go that far now is if I were trying to sell a stainless revolver.
Robert
I just leave them be. So long as they chambers and barrel are clean
A trick I picked up from a competition shooter was to oil the front of the cylinder. All I do after shooting is wipe the front off with a patch damp with my gun oil. None of mine get any crud on them. I haven't done any high volume by some peoples standards, but even after 300-400 rounds, all I do is wipe it off with an oiled patch and it never accumulates.
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Growing old is mandatory, growing up is totally optional!
I understand what you mean. I also understand the wish for a completely clean and shiny handgun. I have cleaned those stains off the cylinders of some of my revolvers in the past.
That said, you should know that revolvers come from the factory with those "stains" on the front of the cylinder. Proof testing/test firing before it leaves the factory produce those.
Just leave it be...Ain't worth the effort, doesn't hurt nothin', and it'll be right back next time you fire it anyway.
That being said, a fella on another forum posted recently that he grabbed one of those new-fangled charcoal toothbrushes with the black bristles as his next gun cleaning toothbrush and that it ended up magically removing the carbon rings from his cylinder faces. I haven't tried it though, so take this for what it's worth...A third-hand internet rumor.
I clean my revolvers with Fire Clean first before shooting. After shooting I put a little Remington bore cleaner on the face of the cylinder and brush with nylon brush. After cleaning the rest of the weapon, a little more brushing and a wipe off of the RBC I use Fire Clean on the whole weapon and in the safe they go. Just a note it is not such a chore to clean anymore.
I cheerfully ignore the carbon rings on the face of the cylinder. It hurts NOTHING and you can easily damage the revolver.
FWIW
Dale53
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |