Snyders JerkyInline FabricationTitan ReloadingMidSouth Shooters Supply
RepackboxLoad DataRotoMetals2Lee Precision
Reloading Everything Wideners
Results 1 to 16 of 16

Thread: Bondo

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,915

    Bondo

    I want to repair a rotted section of an exterior wooden door - not a large section. Bondo sells a product for wood. Is there any difference between that and Bondo for a car repair?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    Scrounge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    OKC Metro
    Posts
    1,435
    Quote Originally Posted by Battis View Post
    I want to repair a rotted section of an exterior wooden door - not a large section. Bondo sells a product for wood. Is there any difference between that and Bondo for a car repair?
    I have not tried the stuff, Bondo Wood Filler, but it's supposed to soak into the wood to help hold it together,which regular Bondo doesn't do. Real woodworkers apparently do not recommend Bondo for repairing wood. I do live in a house where the previous owner took a bunch of shortcuts, using RTV silicone rubber to seal and rebuild parts of the house that were rotted out. It would have been much cheaper to do it right than to use the RTV. Wood is cheaper, even if the wood is a good grade of hardwood. BTW, I'm not claiming I'm a real wood worker, either, but my experience is trying to cheap out just costs more in the long run. A 12oz package of the Bondo wood filler is about $14. A replacement steel-clad exterior 36" door is $120 or so, both at Home Depot. If it's a real wood door, they seem to start around $600. How many of those 12oz packages are you going to need? Naturally, YMMV.

    Bill

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jun 2019
    Posts
    365
    I would say it is going to be more like the long strand fiberglass than the polyester body putty..I would say you would be a lot better off replacing the rotted section of the door with good wood..To quote John Goodman's exterminator character Delbert from Arachnophobia. "Take out bad wood.Put in good wood"..

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,915
    The door is over 30 yrs old. It's an Atrium door - half stationary glass, half door. The bad wood is on the bottom of the hinged door. I'd have to replace it with a slider or another Atrium type door. The rough opening from 30 yrs ago is a little too small compared to what's out there now. I could open it up more, and do the installation myself, but they're heavy. Sliders installed are around $1800 plus. I thought about installing a prehung door on one side and walling up the rest of the opening. I went to Lowes and Home Depot to get a prehung door. We found one at Lowes for a decent price (full glass), and for the heck of it I checked the reviews for that door online. 9 out of 10 said that the door leaked from the beginning and should be recalled. Any other similar door is special order.
    So, for now, I'm just going to repair the wood. I've used West Systems Epoxy to repair and rebuild sailboats, but I think the Bondo might be better suited for this.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    Sweetpea's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Southern Utah
    Posts
    1,313
    If you can cut out most of the rot, and replace it with good wood, the bondo will do wonders hiding your patch job.

    You can then use the bondo to fill any other imperfections in the door, sand, prime, and paint.
    "When you can't make them see the light, make them feel the heat." - Ronald Reagan

  6. #6
    Moderator


    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Just outside Gun Barrel City, Texas
    Posts
    9,683
    Quote Originally Posted by Sweetpea View Post
    If you can cut out most of the rot, and replace it with good wood, the bondo will do wonders hiding your patch job.
    You can then use the bondo to fill any other imperfections in the door, sand, prime, and paint.
    ^^ this.

    Bondo is meant to be a filler for small gaps & imperfections, and does a good job for that.
    Its not really intended to be a building material or structural component.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,915
    Cutting out the bad wood does make sense and was my first choice, then I started pricing out replacement doors, etc. Bondo would be easy but not long lasting.
    Thanks for the suggestions.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Hudson Valley NY
    Posts
    1,478
    I have use a Minwax the products. I have repaired a rotten door frame with this product.
    You first need to dry out the rotten wood then I would apply Minwax wood hardener per the directions. This is a resin that hardens the soft wood fibers.
    https://www.minwax.com/wood-products...-wood-hardener

    After the wood hardener is dry apply Minwax High Performance Wood Filler as directed.

    https://www.minwax.com/wood-products...ce-wood-filler

    Minwax High Performance Wood Filler 12-Oz Natural Wood Filler $13

    Minwax Wood Hardener $13

    I did some research & they say a Bondo type filler will eventually get loose as it doesn't expand and contract like the surrounding wood. If you put a couple of screws and left the heads exposed in the repair it would give the Bondo something to hold to, I think I did this. The edges may crack & separate but it won't fall out.

    I also found the correct product to make repairs on exterior wood is a 2 part epoxy This seems to be the most used & acclaimed product:

    https://www.walmart.com/ip/24-Ounce-...0aAi7lEALw_wcB

    The kit comes with a 2 part wood hardener and a 2 part epoxy filler. The kit is $45 but should hold better than the Bondo.

    https://www.abatron.com/product/wood-restoration-kit/

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,915
    I have the West Systems 2 part epoxy (pricey stuff but good), and a few different fillers, but I just found a board in my basement that's just about the exact thickness as the door. I think I'll try replacing the bad wood.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Posts
    177
    I've used the Bondo for wood for a couple doors that had bad places lower door frames works fine.They weren't large areas inch or so wide couple inches high but they were the thickness of the board.The Bondo is several years old still good.The hardest thing is depending where the repair is getting at it to sand.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
    Huskerguy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Kansas
    Posts
    434
    Since I have worked on cars years ago, I have used a LOT of auto collision plastic filler. I have put it on several homes I have needed to do repair work on. It works OK but does not expand and contract at the same rate as the wood though. For small areas of filling imperfections, it works fine. I have found that inside I have never had an issue though.

    I am in the group that says cut out the old rotten wood, glue in a new piece and use filler to fix the seams. Is this stained or painted? I like to keep the old doors around and integrate them into my remodels where possible and everyone needs a little work - I am doing three right now in my home.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    UPSTATE new york
    Posts
    1,736
    I have used Bondo many times to fix molding around the outside of the house (s). I used to paint houses. It is great for cornish molding, etc. May take a coulpe coats of BIN or KILZ to color right. It's great stuff. That said, I don't think I would use it on a door as it will rattle loose I think. Perhaps cover it with a brass kick plate commonly available in DIY stores.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


    DCP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    The LAST State to allow Conceal Carry -The new 5O
    Posts
    2,710
    i just used JB weld for wall trim. The door stop had tore a 1/2 by 3 in hole in it
    LOYALTY ABOVE ALL ELSE, EXCEPT HONOR

    "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history, when everybody stands around reloading." -- Thomas Jefferson

    "The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena and who, at the worst, if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly, so that his place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who knew neither victory nor defeat."
    Theodore Roosevelt

    NRA
    BENEFACTOR LIFE MEMBER

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northwest Ohio
    Posts
    14,556
    If its on the bottom of the door remove the bad wood and fit in new, dowel and fit glue in then Hide the repair and protect it with a brass kick plate over it. Gluing the kick plate to the door and screws will also strengthen the repair some.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    2,915
    I just removed all the rotted wood from the bottom corner of the door. It was along the bottom and up the side, probably 5" each side. The door is 1 3/4" thick so I'll probably glue pieces together if I can't find wood that thick. Bondo wouldn't have worked - the rot was deep. I like the kick plate idea.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Posts
    2,377
    Back door for the garage. Cut out the rotted wood and glued and screwed in a piece of pressure treated wood. Used a electric plane to get close to the final dimensions of the door 1 1/2" thick. Used a water proof glue and deck screws together and then sealed with wood sealer and primed and painted the door. Still going strong. Frank

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check