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Thread: Direction of sprue plate tab?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Direction of sprue plate tab?

    How do you orient blocks on the handles?

    For Lyman 4 cavity moulds...if the tab is to the rear, you risk hitting the handles.

    There is more room on H&G moulds and you only hit the hinge point.

    I have taken to resting the side of the mould on the edge of my wood casting table and hitting the plate. This way, you don't crack the handles.

    Hmmm, l love the cam system on Lee 6 cavities, is there a way to do it for Other moulds? Then no impact at all.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Boolit Master



    Springfield's Avatar
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    I put the tab to the rear, but I don't hit the plate. I just use my gloved hand to open the plate. If you have to really hit it then you are waiting too long. IMHO.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    The "tab" on my Lyman 4 bangers is at the front unless I'm using the not so common "nutcrackers".

  4. #4
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Springfield View Post
    I put the tab to the rear, but I don't hit the plate. I just use my gloved hand to open the plate. If you have to really hit it then you are waiting too long. IMHO.
    ^^ this for me too.

    On one or two cavity, it's on the right so I can use a big glove for it too.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    This is how it’s most comfortable for me. Especially w/ Cramer style hollow point molds. I use a gloved hand to open once fully up to temp. The first pour or two may require some assistance from an oak dowel.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Luber View Post
    .............Hmmm, l love the cam system on Lee 6 cavities, is there a way to do it for Other moulds? Then no impact at all.
    Thanks
    A Cam Lever for the Lyman 4X moulds is available here: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...r-Lyman-Moulds

    RRR
    "I Make the part.............................that makes the parts"

    Looking for Bullet Mould Handles, Heavy Duty Replacement Sprue Plates, Adjustable Paper Patch Bullet Moulds? Check here:http://www.kal.castpics.net/

    My Feedback!

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...Red-River-Rick

  7. #7
    Boolit Master

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    I position my sprue plate so that the tab is toward the handles and the sprue pivot is away. I preheat my molds. After just a pour or two, I easily push the sprue plate after the sprue puddle frosts over. I find this configuration easiest for me to cast with the least amount of effort.

  8. #8
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    At the top, for me. Regardless, of the number of cavities.

    Winelover

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I face the sprue plate tab at the front of the handles.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master



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    Tab toward. Cut sprue with gloved hand one, two cavities. Four and six cavities, got to start the cut with a tap from an old axe handle.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks all, if you're opening the plate that soon, are you missing out on the final suck-in of liquid?

    The NOE website was very helpful to me even though I have been casting for decades, and I sm gettig better bullets.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Martin Luber View Post
    Thanks all, if you're opening the plate that soon, are you missing out on the final suck-in of liquid?

    The NOE website was very helpful to me even though I have been casting for decades, and I sm gettig better bullets.
    No, I pour a generous sprue puddle and like the plate to be hot enough for the puddle to remain liquid for about 5 seconds or slightly longer. I can see the molten lead divot as the bullet solidifies, then the puddle frosts over shortly after. My boolits are very consistent in weight.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I can't understand how people cut the sprue with a gloves hand. If the mould is that hot, you have to wait to cut the sprue so you don't smear lead between the top of the blocks and the cutter.

    As per the cutter tab, I put it on the end or the right side.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    I can't understand how people cut the sprue with a gloves hand. If the mould is that hot, you have to wait to cut the sprue so you don't smear lead between the top of the blocks and the cutter.

    As per the cutter tab, I put it on the end or the right side.
    I occasionally get a very slight lead smear when the sprue plate lube wears off. But for the most part it runs just fine. One the sprue frosts, I wait a couple more seconds and with a light push of the gloved thumb, the sprue is cut. No problems and I dont have to "whack" the sprue plate to cut the sprue.

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    I can't understand how people cut the sprue with a gloves hand. If the mould is that hot, you have to wait to cut the sprue so you don't smear lead between the top of the blocks and the cutter.
    No you don’t. Wait for the sprue to freeze. Count to five, mold dependent, and open. No smear and no issues. Keeping the top of the mold blocks lubed helps but isn’t necessary.

    It will smear if it’s still liquid. If the lead is solid it can still be cut easily if you do so shortly after it solidifies.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I also drop the casting from the mould onto a piece of cardboard that sits at an angle in the drawer of my casting bench. They are fragile at this time and l don't want impact damage. They slide to the rear of the drawer. I see videos where they just dump into a bin, makes me cringe...

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master
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    A trick Dale53 taught me for using gang moulds is to start casting with just one cavity, then as the mould and importantly the sprue plate come up to working temperature add a cavity, then another, and so on. This way I get good sprue cuts with no smear and no extra stress. Thanks Dale!

    Froggie
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  18. #18
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    I was wondering myself how my molds are on the handles so I went to look , mostly with the tab away from the handle , but several have the tab on the handle end . So I guess it depends on how I feel when I put the handles on .
    I cut the sprue with a gloved left hand pushing the plate with my thumb if on the handle end , or if the tab is pointing away from the handle I use my left hand like a lee 6 cavity sprue handle to twist cut the sprue . I only have 1 10 cavity mold but I cut the sprue with a gloved hand when using it as well , although I have a nocker just in case it needs a wack .
    Every time I think of it I am reminded to thank you gentlemen for the preheating mold tip . Every time I mentioned pore fill out or wrinkles Bangerjim would post preheat your molds - until I finally gave up and tried it . It's a game changer ....

  19. #19
    Boolit Master
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    Opening sooner has been fantastic! I can get the mould hotter without getting frosted bullets, l can break the sprue into the pot, and the preheated mould is super for fill out and cast quality....since the sprue is the last part to freeze, the bullet is filled intersticially with ____ phase lead. Alpha l think, anyways, MasterCaster machines have a blower on top to cool mould and sprue. Wonder if they perform differently regarding freezing up since the sprue could not saying does, could freeze first. Just rambling on thanks

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    I can't understand how people cut the sprue with a gloves hand. If the mould is that hot, you have to wait to cut the sprue so you don't smear lead between the top of the blocks and the cutter.

    As per the cutter tab, I put it on the end or the right side.
    that is how I have been doing it for quite some time now
    never any trouble doing it this way
    it's a system
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check