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Thread: Which groove style?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Which groove style?

    Curious to what the majority think would be the better design for PCing: The groove design, not somuch to overall scheme or style.

    Tumble lube design Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	262840 vs normal lube grooves.Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm not too sure I'd like the plane shank bullet for PCing, seems the drag would increase. Thoughts?
    "What makes you think I care" ........High Plains Drifter

    Rick C.

  2. #2
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    You have the right idea.

    More surface/contact area will have more friction/drag.

    Which ever one has more contact area might need 10-12 more little specks of powder to reach the same speed.
    For me, I'd find the one most accurate for my application, and be happy with it.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    You have the right idea.

    More surface/contact area will have more friction/drag.

    Which ever one has more contact area might need 10-12 more little specks of powder to reach the same speed.
    For me, I'd find the one most accurate for my application, and be happy with it.
    I'm not made of money any more. I just retired.
    I am considering a purchase for a 38-55 mold and/or a 45-70 mold for PCing. I don't want to buy both styles just to find out.
    "What makes you think I care" ........High Plains Drifter

    Rick C.

  4. #4
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hpdrifter View Post
    I don't want to buy both styles just to find out.
    Dig around other sights and archives, and see what everyone else is having good luck with.

    I did that looking for the perfect DEWC mold for a S&W Model 52.
    The perfect Lyman one the serious shooters won money with was discontinued years ago.
    But; I found a almost never used one, with handles on ebay for $60.

    If it was still in production, a new one would have been $100. & something---
    with the new handles I don't like as much as the old style.

    For the .45-70-- The standard 405 is good, but punishing to shoot above trap door speeds.
    If I was wanting a new one myself, I'd be looking at the 300 & something grain molds
    instead of 400-ish.

    You're only 20-odd miles from here. We're just off the road going to 7 Points.
    I'll give ya a bunch of 405s if you want to try them out.
    Last edited by Winger Ed.; 05-27-2020 at 01:44 PM.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    If you look close at those 45-70 boolits up yonder, you'd see I'm lookin at ~300 grainers.

    I've got Lee's 405 HB. It's in poor shape though and was looking to get an Accurate mold of multiple cavity design. The examples above are from his line-up.

    I just wanted to know if someone thought the tumble lube design was better for powder coating than standard lube groove. That's all.
    "What makes you think I care" ........High Plains Drifter

    Rick C.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check