Anybody try this "de-leading" solvent?

[444ttd]

https://www.big45metalcleaner.com/

for only $6, you can't wrong. its great for leading. just don't use it on sintered steel(post 64 win m94 1972 version). its good for surface rust too.

[blackthorn]

Kroil is your friend, quick and easy. I believe that the toxicity is low too. I thought the old Foul out solution of lead acetate was dangerous and stopped using it.

For handguns, you can also firebrush it.

Please explain how the "firebrush" process works. Thanks.

[jsizemore]

Bang!

[Martin Luber]

Firebrushing is simply setting a propane torch on a low to medium flame or use a cigar lighter. With the barrel in your hand, run the flame up the pipe for 5 seconds, then brass brush it.

Pattch and solvent , repeat as needed. Things don't get hot; it's the heat flux through the deposit that breaks it free.

[blackthorn]

Thanks! Firebrush is not a term I recall ever having heard before. Course it may be just CRS.

[Martin Luber]

It is used on pistol forums, can't say for sure that l invented it, but never heard of it in prior use, including National Rifleman magazines dating from about 1949. Let me know how it works for you. Process was confirmed safe by PhD Metalurgists.

All that said, l really like Kroil, whom ever thought of that one, thanks!

[greenjoytj]

All my cast lead shooting firearms shown some lead has been deposited in the barrel.

Its usually removed with simple brushing but some times a little more work is required If I fired a lot of shots (over 100).

I thought bronze brushing with Kroil and JB Bore paste was the gold standard for removing barrel leading.
I brush with Kroil second after my regular bore solvent (M-Pro7) quits working.

If the lead proves more stubborn then kroil with JB Bore Paste and more brushing with bronze wool wrapping the brush.

I have a Louis Lead remover but have never needed to use it.

Ever notice when your patches are coming out clean, you change solvents and the patches come out black again. Doesn’t matter which solvent you start with its the change to a different chemical that reactivates the carbon removal and sometimes a little more lead appears on the patch too.

[1006]

I have found that leaving the barrel soaked in Kroil, Hoppes9 or your favorite non-etching mix for several days is the easiest way.....patience greatly reduces the work required.

I have used a mag full of FMJ’s to clean my pistols for many years. I would think it would work on low pressure rifle cartridges that are typically loaded with cast bullets. I would hesitate to run a full power loaded fmj to clean lead out of something like a 243.

If a bullet leads my gun up so much that is is hard to clean, I switch bullets, or clean more often.

[murf205]

The best de-leading formula ever, is the one I learned from you folks..... It's as follows;
100% proper fit, with a sprinkling of powder coat. Baked to perfection.

+1 for this recipe. After following this formula, I only use a Shooters Choice nylon brush and a little solvent. Light coat of oil and she is ready for the next session. Remember-fit is king.

[curioushooter]

I've never found leading a chore boy, good bronze brush, and Hoppes9 couldn't handle. May take a while, particularly if 30 cal or smaller, but it works.
My understanding of all chemical lead removers is that they are either corrosive to steel or have a toxicity hazard that precludes use. I would like to know what your experiences are with the product if you try it.

[Skyman]

With all the respect to all of you who will object and crap on me, I am using liquid mercury to clean leading. Yes it is poisonous, dangerous, bla, bla, .... but using it wisely doesn't do any harm to you or to the environment. Stick a rubber plug on one side of the barrel pour some mercury and plug the other side. Shake vigorously for 20-30 seconds and your barrel will be as good as it gets! Return mercury in the bottle and use it again and again and again! You don't touch it, you don't throw it anywhere - what harm does it do? And believe your barrel will be as new, takes all the sheeeeet away! The sheeeeet will be floating on the surface of the mercury, no need to remove it just use it again. Just be careful with mercury it will use any opportunity to run away!

[Burnt Fingers]

With all the respect to all of you who will object and crap on me, I am using liquid mercury to clean leading. Yes it is poisonous, dangerous, bla, bla, .... but using it wisely doesn't do any harm to you or to the environment. Stick a rubber plug on one side of the barrel pour some mercury and plug the other side. Shake vigorously for 20-30 seconds and your barrel will be as good as it gets! Return mercury in the bottle and use it again and again and again! You don't touch it, you don't throw it anywhere - what harm does it do? And believe your barrel will be as new, takes all the sheeeeet away! The sheeeeet will be floating on the surface of the mercury, no need to remove it just use it again. Just be careful with mercury it will use any opportunity to run away!

If I had the mercury I'd use it. The price of the stuff has been nuts for quite some time.

[fatelvis]

Is it possible to skim off the lead from the top of the Mercury to remove it, if I wanted to?

[quasi]

a 10 minute soak of Bullplate sprue plate lube works for me.

[Plate plinker]

Seems it turns lead into lead oxide.

[Plate plinker]

Is it possible to skim off the lead from the top of the Mercury to remove it, if I wanted to?

I thought the lead dissolves into the mercury. Then you must chemically remove the lead from the mercury or distill the mercury from the lead.

[whisler]

Good luck trying to do either of those safely. Why take chances, just use Chore boy and be safe.

[saturn]

never had any leading that couldn't be removed with a few strokes of a well worn bore brush generously wrapped with chore-boy.

[dwtim]

Tried many of these tips. Tried the copper-after-lead trick, but then I had copper over the lead. And the extra pressure really pushed the lead into the microscopic cracks in the bore, making the cleaning a nightmare. The only thing that worked really well for me is a brand new brush with sharp-ended bristles. The chore-boy method works too, but it's a lot of work.

If you're interested.... I realized I'd be a whole lot better place if I didn't have lead in the bore to begin with. So I dedicated my time to finding the right combination of things to stop leading for good:

* Reduced tin content...since tin will "tin" the bore, you know what I mean?
* Used softer alloys (except in rifle) that rebound after sizing
* Made softer lubes with Alox and used more beeswax than petro waxes (a.k.a. inside lube)
* Put the bullets in a bag with a thinned-out (mineral spirits) Alox dab, leaving a super-thin coating outside lube on the bullets (a.k.a. outside lube)
* Dry and load
* Flared case mouths enough so that bullet bases don't get shaved
* Seat and crimp in two stages, so that bullets don't get shaved

The combination of all these things means that I don't have any leading anymore, no matter which gun, caliber or velocity. I've shot 500+ rounds without cleaning, and I just gave up counting after than because it was clear that nothing was accumulating. Not a spec of lead anywhere in the chamber or the bore. I consider the matter to be resolved.

Just saying...you don't have to accept that leading is a given.