Would you eat a live scorpion ?
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Would you eat a live scorpion ?
"Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.
I'm with flying Monkey. I use ATF for almost everything these days.
I have not noticed any objectionable smell. My revolvers love it. Wipe it on, wipe it off. It leaves a thin film behind.
When switching loads/lubes I like to run a single lightly oiled patch up the bore followed with a dry.
Seems like things settle back down faster after the switch.
The oil from the side of your nose is very good and cheap.
Marvel Mystery Oil is a better smelling ATF substitute. Some of those additives in the new ATFs really stink. I use Marvel in Ed's Red.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
Bar and Chain oil sticks better on surfaces by far than motoroils. I had a friend that preached bar and chain oil for years. Whatever you do don't put it in a revolvers lockwork. It gums as it dries and will make it not work. That was the last time I used any sticky heavy oil in a gun. All "gun" oils I've had experience with are light oils. I suspect this is the reason. I also don't like oils that are not highly refined. They have residues and ash they leave behind. I have used pharmaceutical mineral oil as both a gun lube and as a honing oil as as a bullet lube ingredient. Works pretty well.
Another oil that works is pharmaceutical castor oil, which has incredible lubricity and film strength for a natural oil.
Also, not all ATFs are the same. Which ATF are you ATF guys using?
Last edited by curioushooter; 06-10-2020 at 10:36 PM.
My guess is by ATF, must guys are referring to a mercon/dextron type of the various grades, as these are what are found something like 90% of the time. Maybe not though, as they usually stink like you wouldn't believe. Some of the imports used a slightly different formulation that you can find. Other than that, you usually have to look for some of the older types. Type F might be a decent one, as it a relatively basic oil, with less smell. It used to be the stuff for power steering fluid, but seems to have lost ground there.
Had either a book or maybe a video on the 10-22 that mentioned bar & chain oil for the bolt.Originally Posted by curioushooter
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ATF makes for a good lubricant , since I drive a Chevy (1968) I use the Dexron ATF , GM Spec. D-20265 or later . That way I can use it in my car's 2 Speed Power Glide transmission , to mix up a batch of Ed's Red Bore Cleaner , to mix up some Ed's Red CLP or just use it as gun oil .
Gary
Certified Cajun
Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
" Let's Go Brandon !"
I like to put a thin wipe of Bar and Chain oil on the non-exposed metal of firearms and for general use, a synthetic 0-20wt. motor oil. For parts and things that I don't want to get gummy, Marvel Mystery Oil is the way to go, in my humble opinion. When I lived on the Oregon coast, Birchwood-Casey's "Sheath" was used on exposed metal to protect from the salt air and the incessant rain. The stuff really worked well!
Great article by Grant Cunningham on gun oils:
https://www.grantcunningham.com/2006...brication-101/
"...Let’s be clear: there are no “new”, “revolutionary” lubricant products made for firearms. That’s a flat statement, and it’s intended to be. All of the lubricants, bases, and additives of suitable use are already well known to the lubricant industry. Specific combinations might be unique, but it’s all been tried before – if not necessarily on guns.
There are several such products on the market right now that are simply a well-known boundary additive in a light carrier; at least one of them is a chlorinated ester! These things have been around a long time, and unless you didn’t know better the products using them would indeed seem to be “revolutionary.” Just remember: any new gun lube is going to be made up of readily available components, perhaps blended especially for the requirement, but will not be a “miracle”...
What would I consider a “best in class” oil? Generally, it would be one made for lubricating food processing machinery, like Lubriplate’s FMO-AW oil (specifically the 350-AW weight.) Food grade lubricants have to prevent wear in sometimes corrosive environments and they have to do so even after being wiped off of the surface they’re protecting (which is actually part of the requirement for food contact ratings!) They have good boundary protection and very high corrosion resistance especially in the presence of acids, alkalis, and moisture. They’re darned near tailor-made for our use!
I’m aware of at least one large coastal police agency using Lubriplate FMO-AW, and they report complete satisfaction with its performance. Unfortunately, it’s not (as of this writing) packaged in consumer friendly quantities – 1 gallon pails being the smallest available. You can get it repackaged in consumer sizes from Lubrikit *...
Motor oils: Generally good boundary lubrication (particularly the Havoline formulations), but very poor corrosion resistance and poor resistance to open-air oxidation. The biggest problem is that their pour-point additives often contain benzene compounds, which aren’t a good thing to have next to your skin on a regular basis! I recommend staying away from motor oils; if you must use something from the auto parts store, ATF performs better for firearms use on every count, even if it is a tad more expensive. (ATF is still 1/10 to 1/100th the cost of a specialty “gun oil.”)
WD-40 was never meant to be a lubricant – it was designed as a moisture displacer. It’s far too light for any load protection, has incredibly poor corrosion resistance, contains zero boundary lubricants, and rapidly oxidizes to form a sickly yellow varnish (hint: this is not good for delicate internal lockwork.) There are those who will defend this stuff vehemently, but then again you can still find people who think smokeless powder is a passing fad. Just. Don’t.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
I totally agree about WD-40. The 1970s to 1980s formulation was not too bad. It became awful after the reformulation.
After trying over 20 lubrication products I've settled on Mobil 1 motor oil. Works phenomenally well, even in ARs. A quart lasts a very long time.
For AR and other bolt locking lugs, a tiny and judiciously applied amount of Big Red tractor grease works great. I use it instead of Lubriplate in Garands and M1As too. Very cheap to buy!
For storage I've had great luck with wiping down with Break Free CLP. Unfortunately my gun storage is pretty damp despite the Goldenrods.
Still think ATF smells horrible and belongs in transmissions, not guns. I've bought many guns used that smelled heavily of it. The people selling them never seem to notice. I notice.
Seems like 3-in-one with PTFE would rank favorably.
Mineral oil and castor oil (and mixes of the two work well).
In the rare situation where grease is called for Synco Chem Co's super lube is superlative. FOOD grade, ordorless, synthetic, has PTFE and EP/AW properties exceeding soap greases. Cheap too.
There are very few situations where grease should be used IMO. I dislike how they pick up crud.
Last edited by curioushooter; 06-12-2020 at 07:41 PM.
Hey, if you can't smell dextron/mercon ATF, more power to you. I am not aware of an oil that reeks worse. I can smell ATF half a mile upwind in a fart factory.
Oh, I can smell it MSM. It's why I think ATF is not an acceptable firearm lube despite apparently having decent lubrication and preservation properties.
Just about any lube will work for for my stuff diesel to petroleum jelly but im not a automatic type either for those you might try
KY
Last edited by Ozark mike; 06-15-2020 at 01:01 AM.
Those who would trade freedom for safety deserves neither and will lose both
Oils are like opinions... everyone has one but objective tests are harder to come by. +1 on Cunningham.
Thanks all for info above regarding toxicity of products.
For commercial products, l liked FP 10, MilTec, Ballistol, G96
Hated CLP, many others, like my can of Hoppes, seem to be just mineral oil: useless?
2/3 10 wt non detergent machine oil with 1/3 Slick 50 is really good, as is 50-50 Marvel and STP
Full Synthetic ATF does not small bad at all, add 4 oz of Alox to Ed's Red and it hardly smells at all. We made up a half gallon of it this week and it works better than anything else we can buy. Hoppes is just water in comparison.
The stuff I have right now is Valvoline max life full synthetic mercon/dextron. If that is your idea of not bad at all, I can't even imagine what your bad is.
And this is coming from a guy who loves the smell of black powder, works around oil and grease all day, and doesn't even hesitate to shovel out the chicken coop.
Looks like just about anything will work for gun oil.
Think I will just stick with my LSA.
I am guessing that there is a certain percentage of people that find certain items/fluids to be obnoxiously stinky? I have a few that others in my family say are pleasant.
I finally had to give up on the above link. On their website, I used the toll free number and it took me to an offer for a medical alert device.
Next I tried a number I found on their home page and after about 10 rings, I gave up.
I'm taking Outpost 75's recommendation and trying to find Lubriplate’s FMO-350-AW. It is described as a food machinery grade lubricant. QUOTE:"good boundary protection and very high corrosion resistance especially in the presence of acids, alkalis, and moisture. They’re darned near tailor-made for our use!"
It only qualifies as "cheap" if you break it down to cost per ounce.
John
W.TN
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