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Thread: Ingot molds

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Ingot molds

    Had an idea for low cost ingot molds. Several folks use channel iron, i did as well, but they were a bit of a pita.

    Here's an i beam based ingot mold I put together in my shop today. Casts two ingots so you can let them cool while others are filling. Closure might more technical, but for now, c clamps will work...

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    Last edited by 10sandxs; 05-23-2020 at 06:45 PM.

  2. #2
    AKA: GRMPS Conditor22's Avatar
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    I like the concept, don't think I'd feel safe using that without a larger base on the molds. I can see [and feel my graceful self] knocking a double mold full of molten lead over and pouring hot lead down my pants and into my shoe

  3. #3
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by Conditor22 View Post
    I like the concept, don't think I'd feel safe using that without a larger base on the molds. I can see [and feel my graceful self] knocking a double mold full of molten lead over and pouring hot lead down my pants and into my shoe
    With that design it would be simple to drill a couple of holes in the base and secure a piece of wood to add stability. A washer or two for standoff and I'll bet it wouldn't even char.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    Appreciate the creativity, but when it’s 500 degrees from the last pour and you’re trying to get those plates back on with the clamps I suspect that you’ll be using creative language.

  5. #5
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    I'd weld a plate on the other end and fill them while they laid flat.
    With several of them, going from one to another- the first pour will solidify fairly quickly,
    and you shouldn't have to wait very long before you could flip it over and fill the other side.
    Laying flat and open, you wouldn't have any issues with sealing the side.

    A volume of hot/molten Lead standing up on its end with a relatively small base---
    that's getting a little out of my comfort zone.
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  6. #6
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    I think cooling time would be extended, due to the larger mass. Welding a section of angle iron to the end (only on one "cavity") would provide a handle, the open "cavity" would work as a heat sink, and help keep your work surface from charring.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master OS OK's Avatar
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    What kind of pot are you going to feed those big chunks-O-lead into?
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  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Thats a unique idea but I'm not sure how well it will work. But, thinking "outside of the box" has been the way a lot of things have evolved!

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I will say that I really like that shrinkage will be at the end, so the ingots should stack beautifully.

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    This is the large ingot mold i have used for the past decade or so... never really liked it, but it was a hell of a lot better than pouring 400+ 1 lb ingots... or even 1.5 lb ingots...

    Ingots for size comparison... 1lb, 1.5 lb, 7lb

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  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    Appreciate the creativity, but when it’s 500 degrees from the last pour and you’re trying to get those plates back on with the clamps I suspect that you’ll be using creative language.
    Do it all the time... channel lock pliers and welding gloves. The clamp will stay relatively cool as there is a lot if surface area and relative small contact area.

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Winger Ed. View Post
    I'd weld a plate on the other end and fill them while they laid flat.
    With several of them, going from one to another- the first pour will solidify fairly quickly,
    and you shouldn't have to wait very long before you could flip it over and fill the other side.
    Laying flat and open, you wouldn't have any issues with sealing the side.

    A volume of hot/molten Lead standing up on its end with a relatively small base---
    that's getting a little out of my comfort zone.
    Tried that... unless you have some taper, they stick in the mold... that design lasted three ingots before it went into the scrap bin.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by OS OK View Post
    What kind of pot are you going to feed those big chunks-O-lead into?
    This is my current bottom pour casting pot. About 60 lbs, 6"x6"x6" internal volume. My ladell casting pot is a 6" pipe with a base welded on. The ladell pot is 2KW, the bottom pout is 5 KW.

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimB.. View Post
    I will say that I really like that shrinkage will be at the end, so the ingots should stack beautifully.
    Like a brick truck...

    The tapered sides overlap just enough to "lock" the stack together, very stable on the roller cart, zero wasted space.

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  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Good thinking out of the box there!

    I really like how the ingots will always be uniform in thickness from end to end and side to side, with only the one open end maybe being a bit uneven. I almost never seem to be able to pour on a truly level surface, ending up with uneven ingots that don't stack consistently. Yours will always stack up flat.

    How long does it take the big ones to cool to the point where they can be unmolded?
    Last edited by kevin c; 06-01-2020 at 11:54 PM.

  16. #16
    Thats a great idea. My pot would never hold them though. But maybe i can make something similar on a smaller scale.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    My wife threw away two cast iron popover 12 muffin pans a while back. She does that with stuff we get from my mother.....

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy OutHuntn84's Avatar
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    Duuuuuuude I love it!!! Especially your 7# stackable ingot mold! How wide is the width and length of the channel iron you are using?

  19. #19
    AKA: GRMPS Conditor22's Avatar
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    I had a similar Idea and had a friend weld these up.





    your end pour molds do look like they give you more uniform ingots

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by kevin c View Post
    Good thinking out of the box there!

    How long does it take the big ones to cool to the point where they can be unmolded?
    I made three sets, and by the time I get the second set poured, the first one is ready for demolding. I leave it open until I get ready to pout it again so it cools off more as its empty with larger surface area. Of course, when later in the session it takes a bit longer, but cooling the empty molds with a fan helps as well. One if the issues I had with the 4 cavity channel molds I used to use is that it took a long time to cool as the mass to surface area ratio was a lot worse than the channel iron based molds.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check