Lands removing PC in 9mm

[coxa2]

Have a Taurus 9mm that the lands of the barrel are removing the PC when firing and causing leading on the last 3rd of the barrel. Never ran into this before. Tried different sized billets (.359, .358, .357) to no avail. Any input/ideas?

[mvintx]

I get a little bit of streaking from the PC in the last part of my 9mm barrel and it contains a small amount of lead too. Most folks seem to think it's from improperly cured PC but I'm baking mine at the correct temp for 25 minutes. Like you, I've tried .357 and .358 and the problem exists with both. One more element that may be causing this is the alloy is too soft and I have since water dropped my PC's boolits directly from the oven. What sort of alloy are you using? I'm using 50/50 COWW/PB.

Those more learned than I will chim in.

[Half Dog]

Have you tried using less powder? I had a similar issue and lowering the charge was my cure.

[coxa2]

3:1 pure to lino

[popper]

Usually caused by loss of lube/coating at the chamber end. Might drop coated into COLD h2o from the oven or reduce the load.

[Dan Cash]

Lubricate the bullets.

[Onebad06vtx]

I would use copper chore boy to remove all leading,then clean your barrel spotless clean then use jb bore paste to lap the barrel to make it smoother.
This will take care of your problem!

[winelover]

Three pure to one lino, is one of the alloys, I use for my multiple 9 mm's. Air cooled an conventional lube without leading. Only PC I've shot are commercial bullets from vendor on this site. They work but nothing to make me give up my luber/sizers.

Winelover

[Jake McCracken]

Most folks seem to think it's from improperly cured PC but I'm baking mine at the correct temp for 25 minutes.

I'm not gonna say its improper cure, but the time and temp the PC calls for is PMT (part metal temperature) meaning start the timer when the part you're powder coating reaches the manufactorers recommended temperature. Some of my powders call for just 10 mins, but depending on the thickness of the metal part I'm coating it may be in the oven for 40 or more minutes.

Google "PMT Powder Coating" and read the pdf file from All Powder Paints website.

The 25 mins you have it in there may suffice, but if the part surface doesn't reach PMT it will not have the proper adhesion to the metal under it. FYI, paint will gloss over and "flow" way before it gets to PMT.

All of the bullets I've made and coated and have recovered from the dirt back stop are still encapsulated in PC. May be something to try. Again I'm not saying you're not getting full cure, but it wouldn't hurt to try.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

[Cosmic_Charlie]

I'm not gonna say its improper cure, but the time and temp the PC calls for is PMT (part metal temperature) meaning start the timer when the part you're powder coating reaches the manufactorers recommended temperature. Some of my powders call for just 10 mins, but depending on the thickness of the metal part I'm coating it may be in the oven for 40 or more minutes.

Google "PMT Powder Coating" and read the pdf file from All Powder Paints website.

The 25 mins you have it in there may suffice, but if the part surface doesn't reach PMT it will not have the proper adhesion to the metal under it. FYI, paint will gloss over and "flow" way before it gets to PMT.

All of the bullets I've made and coated and have recovered from the dirt back stop are still encapsulated in PC. May be something to try. Again I'm not saying you're not getting full cure, but it wouldn't hurt to try.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

Good info and easy enough to test.

[slide]

Another option is to get a digital thermometer with a thermocouple off of amazon.Drill a hole in a coated bullet and secure the thermocouple with high heat aluminum tape. Put the bullet in with your bullets when baking. The lead is thin enough it won't interfere with the door closing. This way you will know the temp of the bullets. When your bullets hit the pmt start a countdown timer from what the mfg recommends.

[popper]

Get a hammer and smash one. If PC doesn't peel or flake off, cured OK. Don't have a taurus but check the start of lands for sharp/abrupt start. Heat treat (drop into cold water from oven)and allow to harden before loading. Basically COWW alloy, I harden mine a bit for 9mm.

[tomme boy]

It is a taurus. That is the problem. I have had 4 pistols over the years and they all had problems. A 357 mag that the rifling was only on one side of the barrel. It was extremely deep. The rest looked like fine scratches all down the rest of the barrel.

My guess seeing other taurus guns is there is no throat and the bullet is getting the pc scraped off as it enters the bore.

[Lloyd Smale]

Had the same problem in a gun using smokes black. Don't know if it was a slightly rough bore or my coating technique or the paint itself. Never bothered to check because they still didn't lead the barrel and shot fine. I would never have known but when the snow bank I test fire loads into all winter melted I found a bunch of bullets and the problem was just with that one caliber and one color.

[ioon44]

It is a taurus. That is the problem. I have had 4 pistols over the years and they all had problems. A 357 mag that the rifling was only on one side of the barrel. It was extremely deep. The rest looked like fine scratches all down the rest of the barrel.

My guess seeing other taurus guns is there is no throat and the bullet is getting the pc scraped off as it enters the bore.

This would be my guess also.

[fcvan]

I have owned a number of Taurus pistols over the years, the first being a .357 and a snubby 38 in the mid 80s. The next were more recent purchases, a 738 TCP .380, the last being a 709 Slim 8 years ago. None of them experienced leading, either with lube or PC. You might try pulling a loaded boolit to see if it is getting swaged during seating. other than that, I am going to agree with a previous post that your powder may not be cured properly.

My oven is a Black and Decker cheapo which almost guarantees the knob doesn't match the actual temp. I bought a cheap oven thermometer from WalMart for like 5 bucks. It generally takes 5 minutes for the oven and boolits to be up to temp and 10 minutes to cure. So, I turn on the oven, set a timer for 15 minutes, and walk away. 20K plus boolits later nary a problem, and that includes 15K just for 9mm.

I did have a problem with the 709 as it printed low left 6 inches. It turns out they had a recall due to a machining error. I spoke with a Taurus Rep at the NRA annual meetings who reminded me their have a lifetime warranty. The only thing it cost me was shipping and a 3 week wait. It came back promptly with a test target. Still a good shooter, wife's 740 slim shot well but she traded it for a Ruger OM Vaquero 45 Colt, which she promptly gave to me.

[Jake McCracken]

I have owned a number of Taurus pistols over the years, .

Agreed, i also own many Taurus pistols and experience no issues.

No leading, no offset rifling, no "im such a gun snob I'm gonna blame all the problems you have on lesser cost firearms" syndrome.

Some people wanna blame everything on a name instead of offering a solution.

Some of you guys make it sound like Corona was caused from not owning 5 H&Ks and a couple of Kimbers! Grow up!


Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk