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Thread: Re- nickel????

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Re- nickel????

    I bought a project gun for my youngest son. It's a 1901 make 1892 Winchester SRC in 25 WCF. It's niclkled from the factory, but in poor shape. I have redone the wood, the action and magazine all work flawlessly and it's actually a pretty good shooter now! But it has rust and the nickel is flaking badly. My question is: how bad is it to strip the old nickle off and have it redone? By whom?? And would I be better off having it case hardened? I'm not interested in original condition, it was $95 and very rough when I got it (come to think of it, $95 might have been high for the work I've got into it!!)
    Thank you in advance!!!!

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by NyFirefighter357 View Post
    I did watch that! It seems to be tough to get a consistent thickness without a whole lot of practice!!

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    Boolit Master Cap'n Morgan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cwtebay View Post
    I did watch that! It seems to be tough to get a consistent thickness without a whole lot of practice!!

    I read an article in a "Guns" magazine from the sixties about nickle plating. It mentioned using a brush for cathode for better controlling the process - sort of "painting" the part with several thin layers.

    I had a shotgun where all parts, except for the barrels, where nickle plated. The job was done by a hobby gunsmith and was absolutely flawless executed.
    Cap'n Morgan

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    You might consider instead of nickle, hard chrome. I'd like to have my 94 receiver brushed hard chrome.

  6. #6
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    A jeweler can do the plating but I don't know if your going to find one willing to do a gun or with the capability of doing the barrel if you wanted it done as well.

    You can also get several other types of plating:

    Black Ruthenium plating
    Ruthenium plating gives jewelry a "high-tech" jet-black or gun-metal grey look and can be plated onto a wide variety of metals. It is very hard and highly resistant to scratches. Black ruthenium plated jewelry gives a much darker black aspect than rhodium plated jewelry.

    Rhodium Plating
    Rhodium is a silver-white hard metal often found in platinum ores. In its natural solid state Rhodium is far too hard to be worked on, but it is used as an alloy in the smelting of platinum and palladium. Rhodium is a noble metal that imparts an extremely bright and hard wearing finish when applied as plating and gives a durable finish of exceptional brightness. Rhodium finishes can greatly enhance the appearance and longevity of any metal to which they are applied.

    Chrome

    Silver

    You might want to gold plate the trigger as well

    I personally like the Rhodium plating it's very durable. This is a internet pic but it gives you he idea of the color tone.

  7. #7
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    I've known several guys who were "in to" home project nickel plating. I'm sure that you could do it, but results do vary. Were it me, I would have to answer the questions for myself about why do I want it to be nickel plated and to what benefit? I would definitely go for a different finish if the rifle is to be used for anything other than a showpiece. The nickel can be completely chemically stripped off, and being a '92 it should blue well. But, if it's to see lots of carrying afield then there are better finishes than bluing, as the receiver is right where the point of balance is for carrying, and sweaty hands usually result in rust without conscientious maintenance. I'd look at something like one of the very durable spray on finishes which you can also do at home by carefully following the instructions. A flashy nickel receiver isn't something you want for hunting.

    DG

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bazoo View Post
    You might consider instead of nickle, hard chrome. I'd like to have my 94 receiver brushed hard chrome.
    I've owner & hunted a few different Winchester leverguns, and can tell you that the black chrome can (and will) flake off around the edges of the screw holes and/or hammer slot.

    I'd suggest contacting a local jewelry or automotive plater for the best advice.

    Plating will effect anything in the plating tank, so if only the receiver is to be plated, the gun must be fully dis-assembled, including removing the barrel.

    If it were mine, I would want either color case hardening or electroless nickel (looks like satin stainless).

    A good ( and inexpensive) alternative for a shooter would be to remove the nickel and coat it with Brownell's Oxpho-Blue.

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod1072.aspx


    .
    Last edited by pietro; 05-22-2020 at 12:42 PM.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    If they are still in business, Checkmate Plating in FL used to do a great job of plating firearms and they had trained people to do the disassembly and reassembly. They offered a variety of finishes. GF

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Tokarev's Avatar
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    Nickel can be removed in a hot ammonium persulfate bath.

  11. #11
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    Thanks all! I'm disassembling her and will strip the nickel. Then off to be case hardened! (It does belong to a 9 year old after all, betting he might be a bit tough on it over the next several decades)

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gray Fox View Post
    If they are still in business, Checkmate Plating in FL used to do a great job of plating firearms and they had trained people to do the disassembly and reassembly. They offered a variety of finishes. GF
    That's the name I couldn't think of! I have a Ruger SBH in .44 mag that the prevoius owner left in a holster and it had some serous rust and pits. I sent the gun out and had it hard chromed about 20 years ago, they disassembled/reassembled & plated it. It's a non-glare dull silver finish and looks today like it did when it was done.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Master Tokarev's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by merlin101 View Post
    It's a non-glare dull silver finish and looks today like it did when it was done.
    This is the best finish, similar to that found on the dials of the lathes and mills. Takes enormous abuse and stands up to it, unlike the glossy chrome that flakes.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pietro View Post
    If it were mine, I would want either color case hardening or electroless nickel (looks like satin stainless)./
    Actually electoless nickel can be very shiny or satin or anything in between exactly the same as with electro-plating, whether it's shiny or satin depends on the level of polish/buffing of the base metal. I have experimented in the past with electro-less plating and currently I am in the process of setting up an electro-plating outfit from Caswell.
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