Does anyone else have a NOE sizing die that is waay off?

[mvintx]

My recently obtained 356 body die sizes boolits to .3569" and the 357 die sizes to .3580". I'd like to try a boolit sized .356"...do I buy a 355 body die? My NOE 402 die sizes to .4022". What gives? Yes, I'm using a micrometer. It's a cheapie but it does a better job than my dial caliper.

My email to NOE is unanswered.

[Conditor22]

Call Al (the owner at 801-377-7289 he'll make it right.

Try the .3569, you might be pleasantly surprised by the results -- Accuracy

[OS OK]

Lead sizes differently depending on it's blend...check this chart out, the rightmost columns deal with specific size dies and what size the lead cast actually comes out of those dies.
This prolly has something to do with your results too.

[DHDeal]

An example of the above good answers is when I cast bullets with 20/1 and my COWW/pure + tin, the bullets will be different sizes even after run through the same die, coated with the same PC, same mold, etc.

[Ben]

I think you're getting " spring back ".

[gpidaho]

mvintx: As shown above, nothing stays exactly the same when alloys differ. I have somewhere between 25 and 30 of the Noe bushings and none are "way off" Use a pin gauge and measure yours, if a mistake has been made Al will make it right. Gp

[mvintx]

Thanks everyone for the replies. I tried the .3569" (.001" to .0015" over slugged diameter) and it was disappointing. I had high hopes that this would be the key to my accuracy issues but sadly it was not. At first the .3580" boolits looked promising but they didn't pan out either. I'm getting some streaks in the barrel but it's not lead. Could be my PC is not cured enough but I find that unlikely...I bake for 25 min in a PID-controlled oven (top and bottom elements with a recirc fan).

OS OK, thanks for the chart. My alloy is 50/50 COWW/PB/2%SN so it would probably be undersized according to the chart.

After shooting my disappointing test loads yesterday, I fired 10 rounds of my FMJ practice ammo (124 grain Xtreme plated) at 1,100 fps. It usually prints under 2" at 12 yds but it shot nowhere near that. I've either got a bad barrel (I really doubt it) or some contamination that's causing problems. A third possibility is that I just can't shoot a pistol worth a **** anymore! I've been working on this since February and it's getting frustrating.

[OS OK]

Not sure but I think I can relate to your frustration.
As much as I hate to admit it, sometimes you just have to get a dang bag out and shoot off the bag to find out if the loads really are good or not...since the knuckle-head behind the trigger ain't doin his part at the moment!

[Conditor22]

Let's get down to basics

0 what boolit are you shooting?
1 what gun are you shooting?
2 did you pull a couple of dummy boolits to see IF you're downsizing them when you seat and crimp?
3 How fast are you pushing them?
4 What powder are you using?

#2 is the biggest mistake/problem people have loading 9MM cast due to the tapered case

I use an NOE expander plug the diameter of the boolit I need since the brass springs back .001 and provide all the tension needed on the boolit without shrinking it.

I seat and crimp in 2 steps crimping with the LFCD just enough to allow chambering and test that the loaded boolit doesn't move in the cartridge when pressed against something.

.0015 over is good for most guns

never used 50/50 COWW/PB+ 2% for 9MM ---- I think I'd try COWW+2% not cutting it. The boolits might be too soft

You could heat the PC'd boolit at 400 for 1 hour then quench them and see if that helps



some people like quenching COWW for the 9MM



Do you wear glasses? if so try your reading glasses instead of driving glasses

remember -- front sight in focus rear sight and target a little blurry.

My shooting partner has been fighting 9mm CC gun for a year, increased diameter by .001 and things started looking much better.

Every gun has its own personality

keep letting us know how it goes

[mvintx]

I'm casting a Lyman 356402, 120 TC boolit seated to Lyman's recommended 1.10". Shooting two Glocks, one a 17 (RMR equipped) and the other a 23, both with Lone Wolf barrels. I have pulled seated boolits and there is no downsizing - using a Lathesmith powder funnel with a .356" diameter. Velocities range from 1000-1100 fps with Red Dot, Unique and Power Pistol. I seat and crimp in two separate steps and only enough to move the case mouth against the boolit. As of the date of my OP, I've tried .356, 357 and 358 sizers and experienced inconsistent results with all of them. Although 357 initially showed the best results, subsequent testing was disappointing. The idea of barrel fouling has come to mind as a possible culprit but I only see powder residue and some light streaking on the grooves. Running a brush wrapped with a piece of copper Chore Boy will clean it out and inspecting those 'tailings' reveals a few very tiny lead fragments. I have since thoroughly cleaned the barrel in preparation for my next testing session.

Now you could have something about the hardness of my alloy. With the dwindling supply of COWW, I started mixing it with pure PB. Since I cast and coated about 500 of these, I guess I could reheat them and try water cooling. According to the chart you attached, I'll pick up considerable hardness that way. It's certainly worth a try.

Corrective lenses have been a part of my shooting regimen for many years now.

I'm glad you mentioned the boolit hardness aspect. That and .0015" over bore diameter is going to be my next phase.

Thanks for your suggestions. Will report back.

[gwpercle]

I solved all my leading problems with a gas checked 9mm boolit .
NOE 358 - 124 - TC - GC , a 124 gr. truncated cone , 50-50 pure lead / COWW (soft alloy)
sized .357 and can be driven to 1200 fps , conventional Lube ( Lithi-Bee).
no water dropping , no coated and no leading in barrel .
Think about it !
Gary