Required dies for cast bullets

[Finnbearman]

Good day,

Forgive my ignorance but I've recently retired and have an old pre 64 in 338 win mag that kicks too hard and isn't cheap to shoot either. I picked up a Lyman 338 320 at a gunshow on a whim along with a pot, etc. I have been using a rcbs two die set forever to load my 338 but I would like to know if I need a special seating die or new dies all together for for these cast bullets?

The mold is also a gas check mold so I guess I need some of those as well. I'd like to powder coat them so a Lee push through die would be best?

Thanks fellas

[hawkenhunter50]

You'll need to get an expander die, something like a Lyman M die and should be fine. No need for a new seating die. Dont powder coat myself so cant comment there.

[Pee Wee]

You will also need a factory crimp die.

[richhodg66]

Chances are you'll be OK with the dies you have. You want something to flare the case mouths, Lyman M die is good, the Lee Universal expander works real well too.

Most cartridges, standard dies work fine. I did have a huge improvement in my .38-55 when I switched to the RCBS Cowboy dies, but I doubt they make anything like that for the .338.

You're probably going to need to size your bullets, most older Lyman molds drop them oversize in my experience. The Lee liquid alox is good lube, a box f gas checks will go a long way. I wouldn't waste time powder coating, lube is easier.

The profile of that 338320 looks to have a decent sized flat nose. You could easily hunt deer with a bullet like that in a .338, cast bullets can be more than just paper plinking loads.

[richhodg66]

You will also need a factory crimp die.

I very rarely crimp any rifle rounds. Only time I ever do is for tube magazines, no need in a bolt action.

[Winger Ed.]

Welcome to the addiction.

You'll probably be wanting a sizer of some sort also.
They all have pro & cons, but nobody makes a bad one.

[454PB]

I use cast boolits in my .338 WM, and the only addition to the normal reloading dies is the Lee universal expander. There are a lot of additional tools that you may want or need in the future, but none that are required to start. Since that is a gas check design, you will need a sizing die for attaching the gas checks, if you don't want to invest in a lubrisizer, the Lee push through die will work fine, I make my own sizing dies, and I made mine .339".

[dsh1106]

I've shot & loaded for 338 WM since the mid 80's.

I have two different 338320 moulds, one Lyman and one Ideal single cavities.
Both of these moulds drop a bullet that measures .3385/.3390, I'm able to load these straight from the mould.

I've loaded these using 15 grains of red dot, for my my kids when they were younger.
Necksizing dies work best, with some sort of next flaring tool. Be careful if you use crimping die, you can damage the cast bullet if you're not careful.

Scott

[Wayne Smith]

The ONLY tool you NEED to add is something to flare the neck of the cartridge to start seating the boolit. A pair of needle nose pliers will do this, but not with adequate regularity. A Lyman M die is recommended. Your seat die should be adjusted to seat the boolit only and that will remove the flare that you M die or needle nose pliers established.

Otherwise it's mechanically no different than loading condom boolits.

[gpidaho]

Noe sells expanders that fit inside a Lee universal expander die. When you find the size bullet that fits your rifle purchase one that gives you a thousandth or two neck tension. Gp

[frkelly74]

I did once have a seating die that would seat cast boolits without them touching the seating stem. the crimp shoulder would contact the boolit and push it in. I reamed it out a little with some sand paper on a stick and then it worked well. These were Lee dies for 6.5 jap I think.

[toallmy]

I did once have a seating die that would seat cast boolits without them touching the seating stem. the crimp shoulder would contact the boolit and push it in. I reamed it out a little with some sand paper on a stick and then it worked well. These were Lee dies for 6.5 jap I think.

I have had to do that to a 30-30 and 7.65 seating die also for loading cast .

[Conditor22]

It's not just about the flare. You need to expand the case neck


http://noebulletmolds.com/smf/index.php?topic=1795.0

https://noebulletmolds.com/site/prod...gory/expanders
first number is the flare/bell size at the case mouth, the second is the neck size. (remember they The cases ) shrink .001 after flaring) you need to find what works for your setup 361-357 -- I use for .357 boolit.

[Finnbearman]

Thank you all. Would someone care to make a conservative estimate on how many bullets can be cast per hour with a single cavity mold such as I have?

[toallmy]

That’s a tricky question ��
If the boolits just fall out perfect every time 1- 200 a hour . If it’s a older Ideal Lyman you’re in good shape .

[Wayne Smith]

Thank you all. Would someone care to make a conservative estimate on how many bullets can be cast per hour with a single cavity mold such as I have?

I never timed myself to have any idea of how much time it took. I have several single cavity molds - my slowest is Lyman 457122 Gould HP because that one requires pressure pouring. The upside is that once the mold is up to temp every cast is a good one. I cast until I'm tired and feel good about the boolits I've been able to make. The older I get and the hotter it gets the shorter that time is.

[winelover]

I load cast in my 338W with RCBS two die set. They only change needed, was to purchase a larger expander spud from RCBS. They are available in different sizes. I size my bullets to .340 and use a .339 spud.

Winelover

[dsh1106]

Thank you all. Would someone care to make a conservative estimate on how many bullets can be cast per hour with a single cavity mold such as I have?

Are you casting from a dipper or a bottom pour furnace?
If your mould releases the bullet without any issues, and your using a bottom pour furnace, you could probably do 2 per minute, your ability to keep a given pace will be the limiting factor.

Scott