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Thread: Electrolytic Bore Rust Removal

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    Used to use this a lot with farm fresh tools. Negative (black) lead from battery charger goes to the item for de-rusting, red goes to the sacrificial anode (I always used a stainless steel pan lid).

    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy Rapidrob's Avatar
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    I've been using this method for about 35 years now. I use an old computer power supply where the output can be adjustable from 5-14 VDC and several amps under load.
    You want to avoid stainless steel rods like the virus. A poisonous gas will be released. A common steel or machine steel rod is all you need. I use very small O-rings placed several inches apart to prevent the rod from touching the lands of the barrel and shorting out.The solution will clean the grooves with no issues where the o-rings are.
    I rubber cork the breech end to prevent leakage with the rod centered and 1/2 way into the cork.
    The muzzle end is O-ringed and a plastic funnel is heated up and slipped over the end of the barrel. This provides a water tight seal. If it does dribble, hot melt glue will seal it up and does no harm to the bluing.
    The funnel body acts as a reservoir for holding the electrolyte solution. As it cleans you will clearly see the scum form on the top of the funnel. The funnel also prevents the crud from over flowing and making a mess.
    The start of the process is easy to see as you can look into the funnel and see the gas bubbles almost instantly form and rise to the top. This shows you it is hooked up properly and is working. If you do not see bubbles within 10 seconds, stop. You have a short or the solution with the Washing Soda is too weak to conduct current.
    After a few hours you can add new solution and check the bore rod. The rod should be cruddy black covered from iron oxide that has been plated to it. The barrel and solution will be warmer than room temp. It will never get hot.
    You can add a safe cleaner to the solution to aid in removing non metallic deposits from the bore. Dawn and Simple Green work well.
    You want to make sure other cleaners are bluing safe.
    A small amount of hydrogen will be given off. Just use it in a room with normal ventilation,nothing special with fans is needed.
    You can scale up the process for rusty gun parts by using a plastic bucket, cat litter container or large plastic dog food container.
    The cleaning you get has to be seen to be believed.
    Tap water is fine. Distilled water is not needed at all.
    The instructions for after cleaning posted above should be followed.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy pcmacd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blpenn66502 View Post
    Used to use this a lot with farm fresh tools. Negative (black) lead from battery charger goes to the item for de-rusting, red goes to the sacrificial anode (I always used a stainless steel pan lid).

    Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk
    Stainless steel has chromium in it, which makes your resulting solution seriously dangerous. Good old rebar would be much safer.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master

    swheeler's Avatar
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    Let us know how the barrel looks and shoots after your done.
    Hell, I was there!

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy pcmacd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swheeler View Post
    I do believe this is backwards. Red+ to the barrel, Black - to the rod is how should be hooked up.https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...32&action=viewhttps://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/s...un+barrel+clea

    I built this one decades ago, used it on many many milsurps and it does a fine job, hooks up and runs just like Foul Out III barrel is always the anode +, but I'm removing lead and copper, maybe some rust too.
    If I understand your position, I respectfully disagree with your notion that the positive connection is to the barrel for removing rust.

    Metal ions (i.e. RUST) follow the current flow, from negative to positive.

    --->>> That's just basic physics, sir. <<<---


    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust

    See section entitled "Treatment."



    If you have had success with the configuration you outline (assuming I understood it? It was a little confusing) I am sitting here scratching me 'head wondering how.

    Everybody gets an opinion. We are not always right, including me.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
    fiberoptik's Avatar
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    Electrolytic Bore Rust Removal

    http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm
    Bottom of page. Froggy’s info. How to make the device, solutions, even Ed’s Red +.
    Good info.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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