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Thread: Coated cast in Glocks

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    Did you smash test the bullets? you should be able to flatten them & have the coating be intact. Are you seating & cr9imping in separate steps? Are you flaring enough that the coatring isn't scraping off the base edge someplace?
    IMO, forget slugging, modern bbls are pretty uniform & if you load for more than one gun, & have diff bore dia, an issue. If you are sizing down in the dreaded LFCD, that could be part of the problem, but I have never gotten leading like that in any Glock regardless of the bullet size. That looks like coating failure. I used to run 0.357" in all my 9mm but went back to 0.356" because Ioad in mixed brass & would get the occasional fat round. No issues with accuracy or leading, commercial HT bullets or my own. The only powder I have ever seen hard on coated bullets is TG, so me, I would & do avoid TG.
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  2. #22
    Boolit Man
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    I replaced the Lee FCD with a Dillon crimp die and seated/crimped a few dummy rounds. I pulled the bullets from those: coating remained intact and the bullets were still .356. I loaded 50 rounds: 125g RN cast/coated @ 1.125" OAL, 4.2g W231, Fed standard primer, .380 crimp. Shot them just now, leading is just as bad as before.

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  3. #23
    Boolit Master
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    I have better luck with Red Dot or a slower powder than 231 , like BE-86 In 9 and 40 with Hi-Tek coated .
    But I have seen many posts about good performance from other powders to.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    What cured my 9mm leading problems was sizing the PC soft lead bullet to 0.357" and expanding the case neck to about 0.358 with a homemade pin in my M-die to a depth of 0.15 inch. I use the Lee seating die only to set OAL and finish with the Lee FCD for light taper crimp. It seems the normal methods squeezed the bullet too hard and reduced its OD which probably caused the leading. Using my method I cured the leading and have no feeding problems in Beretta 92FS, Sig P320, Glock 17, and some Taurus pistols. My rounds are slightly too large to slip into a case gauge but have no problem in the pistols.

  5. #25
    Boolit Man
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    Thought I'd give the JB Bore paste a break. Anyone remember these gizmos?



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    Last edited by Chuck Perry; 05-20-2020 at 08:30 PM.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master

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    Foul out works great! Its been discontinued but the formulas and operation can be found online.

  7. #27
    Boolit Bub
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    Check hardness of your bullets. I had the same problem and same results. Turned out to be soft alloy. Bullets were replaced from a different batch, problems solved.

  8. #28
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    Try .358. I use powder coating and zero issues in gen 3 model 17.::

  9. #29
    Boolit Man
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    I have some similar bullets from a different commercial caster. I loaded them up identical with the W231 load, will test fire them tomorrow.

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  10. #30
    Boolit Mold
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    I suggest you use a normal taper crimp so you don't resize the bullets.

    The white residue is normal but if lead is building up its no good.

    I also think you should try load the round a bit longer and see if that helps.



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  11. #31
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    With the run on bullets many manufacturers are sending them out as soon as they are made. It takes a minimum of 21 days for a lead bullet to reach the original hardness of the alloy.

    White residue at the end of the muzzle is normal. When you run a brass bore brush through your barrel, make sure you do it over a piece of paper. That way, you will see pieces of lead on this paper and know for sure that it is leading.
    The easiest way to get out small amounts of lead is to wrap a small strand of copper wire around your bore brush and push through the barrel several times.

    Most 9mm Glocks will function better with a .357 sized bullet.


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  12. #32
    Boolit Man
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    I got out to fire my latest batch today after work. These were the 124 coated cast bullets from a different vendor. These are also sized .356 and coated with red HiTek, but have a grease groove whereas the original ones did not. Other than the bullet itself the load was identical. I fired 50 rounds and noticed no leading.
    The original vendor is sending me a box of the same "problem" bullet, but sized larger at .357. I'll report back once I have tested those.

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master fredj338's Avatar
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    The soot is your really low charge of CFE. Medium burn rate powders like to run well over midrange for complete combustion. You are barely over starting data. If you want low vel, clean burning loads, then go to a faster powder.
    I feel HT is a bit finicky compared to PC when running softer alloy. I can get really good results with PC & range scrap in full power 9mm & 40 without leading or accuracy issues.
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  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy Curly James's Avatar
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    I use the 6 CAVITY 356-125 2R bullet mold. Powder coated and sized to .356. Seated to 1.110 over 5.1 grains of CFE Pistol powder. The crimp matters a great deal. I taper crimp mine at .377. These shoot wonderfully in a Glock Gen 4 26 and a Kahr CM9. They do not pass the "plunk" test in a Springfield XD compact nor my Glock 19X. The throats are too short. I really only shoot them in the 26 and the Kahr so I haven't experimented with a shorter COL. I have had no leading at all in either gun. Good luck. It sounds like the alloy may have been too soft or the coating wasn't up to par. Although, I have loaded some pure lead hollowpoints that I powder coated and fired from a .357 magnum at some pretty fast velocities with no leading.
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  15. #35
    Boolit Man
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    I recieved the new .357 diameter bullets today. I loaded 50 with a full charge of CFE pistol and ran them thru the Glock. I believe my leading issues are gone. I did have a few that failed to fully chamber, hung up 3/4 way into the chamber. I think maybe I need a bit more crimp? I adjusted the crimp down a few thousandths. I'll load and test some more tomorrow.

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  16. #36
    Boolit Man
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    I spoke too soon about the .357 diameter bullets. Leading continued, despite several changes I tried in OAL and powder/charge. Whereas the .356 diameter bullets from the other vendor don't lead at all, are quite accurate and around $10/1000 cheaper. I think I know what to do

  17. #37
    Boolit Master

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    Try bumping up the diameter, and as others have said, play with the crimping. If you are casting at .356, with a coat it should bring it up to .357-.3575. Shoot them as cast or pony up the $20 for Lee .357 push through. I have 3 Glocks, two 9's and a .45. I have run a metric ton of cast through them. Two have never tasted a jacketed bullet. Traditional lube, tumble lube, and powder coat, as my preferences have changed. I can run 500+ rds through any of them without a single smear. Glocks hating lead is the biggest pile of horse sh*t being repeated online. No offense to you at all.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master

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    I will add, not knowing your experience level, 9MM is about the worst caliber to learn on. .38, .44, .45, ect, are all much more forgiving. The 9's tapered case can be a real bunghole for newbies. My first 6 months casting I thought the guys on here were using magic powers. All kinds of issues. Started working on the .45 and I had tack driving loads in a week.

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    A 9mm Glock was my biggest challenge for finding leading free boolit happiness.

    Now that I am happy, I have posted responses a few times in a few threads. Just to make it easy, I went back grabbed what I think are key items.
    The combination below worked for me and may help others figure out something that they may want to try next.

    I use a custom deep plug 0.3575" expander
    I use 0.3595" PC coated boolits (Lee 120 TC)
    I use select brass, a mix of Blazer, FC and CCI
    I seat and I do flare removal (not really crimping) as separate steps
    I can now use any powder I want and loads up to book max with great accuracy and no leading.

    I have come to believe that much of the 9mm "just can't figure it out frustration" comes from having boolits sized down by the case more than you think and/or just not going with big enough boolits. I am also convinced that sorting headstamps is an easy thing to try early on when your are having problems. More details of my basis for these can be found in post 37 of

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...cast-9mm/page3

  20. #40
    Boolit Bub
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    Thanks for the helpful info folks! Just getting back into casting/coating after a couple years off.

    I'm casting for new to me Gen5 Glocks with the marksman barrels. I'm looking to start sizing at .357. I sized to .356 on the Gen4's in the past.

    Any insight onto what OAL's you folks are passing plunk tests with in your Gen5 barrels?

    TIA. Yes, I'm aware I need to slug and plunk my own barrels.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check