New loader

[DKG]

Hello, everyone! I am strongly looking into loading my own predator loads for my 12 gauge as the shot sizes I like are more of a handload proposition where I live. I currently have the BPI coyote and buckshot manuals along with the Lyman 5th edition on the way. I have some questions that I would like answered that I have not been able to get clear answers on with a google search and I have searched here as well. If I missed the threads to answer the questions, please link me to them.

My main question is this; when loading larger lead shot sizes (BB, BBB and T mostly) is it safe to use lead shot data of, for example: 1.5 oz in a Remington STS/Nitro/Gun Club provided that nothing is changed but the shot size? Will pressure increase?

I would also prefer to roll crimp when using new hulls if possible without a pressure increase to differentiate between my loads as I have been told that a fold and roll crimp can be used interchangeably. Is this possible?

Will plating on shot affect anything so long as the core is lead?

I know these are probably dumb questions, but I have to one to ask personally and I again, apologize if these have been asked before. But I would like to make sure I have correct information before I purchase items to start.

Thank you in advance,
Darren

[M-Tecs]

My main question is this; when loading larger lead shot sizes (BB, BBB and T mostly) is it safe to use lead shot data of, for example: 1.5 oz in a Remington STS/Nitro/Gun Club provided that nothing is changed but the shot size? Will pressure increase?

Will plating on shot affect anything so long as the core is lead?

If using a volume measure like a bushing larger shot has more air space and less weight for the same volume than smaller shot so pressure will go down. If you go by actual weight no difference.

Plated shot lead alloy tends to be harder plus the plating adds protection from deformation so they should pattern better.

[megasupermagnum]

Yes, it is perfectly safe to swap in larger lead shot sizes for smaller lead shot sizes. Once you get into T shot or bigger, you usually have to make changes to make it fit, but being as you will be using a roll crimp, this should not be a problem.

I have seen no evidence that there is a significant difference in pressure between a fold or roll crimp. If anything, a roll crimp often produces slightly less pressure. A roll crimp works best on new hulls or previously roll crimped hulls. You can roll crimp a previously fold crimped hull, but they usually don't produce picture perfect results, although they seem to work just fine.

Plating on shot is no problem at all. I've found no difference between plated and non-plated shot. What matters is the hardness of the lead used. All BPI superbuck is good shot. This is one area where you can beat manufacturers by casting your own. Quenched cast shot is better than any of the swaged stuff you can buy. But the store bought swaged shot like BPI superbuck does work very well.

You will also find yourself going down the path of buffered loads if you want to maximize your range. You can NOT add buffer to load data not developed for it. There is buffered load data in both of the manuals you bought. BPI buffer works ok, I like the PSB buffer from Precision Reloading better.

[M-Tecs]

Plating on shot is no problem at all. I've found no difference between plated and non-plated shot. What matters is the hardness of the lead used. All BPI superbuck is good shot. This is one area where you can beat manufacturers by casting your own. Quenched cast shot is better than any of the swaged stuff you can buy. But the store bought swaged shot like BPI superbuck does work very well.
.

I wondered about that. In the 70's and 80's I loaded and tested a lot of loads with Winchester Lubaloy in larger sizes. Before steel was mandated for waterfowl in 1991 it was sold in 25 LBS bags for a reasonable price. I still have about 25 pounds. It did and does pattern better. Unfortunately it has not be available for a long time. It was rumored that Fiocchi Nickel plated shot was on par with the Winchester Lubaloy but that was in the late 80's early 90's. At the time some of the imported plated shot was softer than unplated. Sad that we can't purchase shot that was as good as the old Winchester Lubaloy.

[DKG]

Thank you. Is buffer specific to the load data like the rest of the components or can that be swapped?

[megasupermagnum]

Thank you. Is buffer specific to the load data like the rest of the components or can that be swapped?

Buffer cannot be used in data not tested with it. Buffer does dramatically raise pressures. If you are asking if different types can be swapped, then the answer is sort of. Most data you find will use either BPI original or PSB buffer. both seem to be some kind of plastic, and I wouldn't worry about swapping those. Some have used cream of wheat, and while it works, I wouldn't mess with it for the purposes of lead shot in a shotgun shell. Do NOT use flour or anything dense like that. I can only recommend either BPI original or PSB from Precision Reloading.

[megasupermagnum]

I wondered about that. In the 70's and 80's I loaded and tested a lot of loads with Winchester Lubaloy in larger sizes. Before steel was mandated for waterfowl in 1991 it was sold in 25 LBS bags for a reasonable price. I still have about 25 pounds. It did and does pattern better. Unfortunately it has not be available for a long time. It was rumored that Fiocchi Nickel plated shot was on par with the Winchester Lubaloy but that was in the late 80's early 90's. At the time some of the imported plated shot was softer than unplated. Sad that we can't purchase shot that was as good as the old Winchester Lubaloy.

I don't consider any of the factory brand shot good. Remington, Federal, and Winchester shot are all rather poor quality now. I'm not ever sure Winchester still sells any lead shot, and Remington and Federal is rather hard to find. Many places sell Eagle brand, and that stuff is bottom of the barrel junk. The top of the line now is shared by both West coast and Lawrence. The caveat is that both are only good for shot sizes up to #4 shot. Lawrence does sell 00 buck, however, I have not tried it.

In my own pattern testing, I have tried both magnum and either copper or nickel plated shot from each brand. I shot some chilled shot, but all my pattern testing has been with magnum. I don't know why anyone would buy chilled shot. The worst performer is no surprise Eagle brand shot. The factory shot is somewhere in the middle. Top performers are always West Coast or Lawrence magnum shot. Right with them are the copper versions of each, as well as BPI's nickel plated lead. The plated shot has not patterned one iota better than the plain magnum shot. There is a direct correlation between patterns and shot hardness. The WC and Lawrence shots, both magnum and plated are 6% antimony shot. I believe the BPI super buck is as well.

I think the idea with plated shot has more to do with possibly improving penetration by not pulling in feathers. In my own experience, it does not help.

[M-Tecs]

In the 70's and 80's using Tom Roster buffered loads with Winchester Lubaloy BB's I had no issues getting 99/100% patterns in both 12 gauge and 10 gauge. None of the other non plated magnum shot I tried would do that. I did try a couple of plated shots from BPI and they were junk compared to Lawrence magnum. I haven't loaded a large shot load since 1990. For the limited varmint calling shotgunning I do I still am using Lubaloy BB loads from the 80's.

[megasupermagnum]

Yes, it seems we have lost ground in the course shot area of BB to F shot range. I've tried BPI's nickel plated #5 vs Lawrence magnum #5, and can't measure one bit of difference. Every turkey load I tried with both had exactly the same number of pellets in the 10" circle within a couple pellets. I've also tried Lawrence copper plated #5, and if anything it seems to average a few pellets less than the magnum, although not a large enough sample to say for sure. I hadn't given this much thought, but I have BPI's super buck. I'll test the hardness on some and get back to you. It claims it is hard, but that likely means 6% antimony. It is swaged shot. It might seem futile to cast shot, but using normal bullet alloys and water dropping, you can achieve hardness around 25 BHN. No commercial shot can come close. Once this COVID nonsense clears up, I intend to buy both a BB and a #F buck mold from Marty's Arms. I only intend the BB for casting bismuth shot, but I can compare the superbuck #F to my own cast #F for patterns.

[DKG]

Yes, it seems we have lost ground in the course shot area of BB to F shot range. I've tried BPI's nickel plated #5 vs Lawrence magnum #5, and can't measure one bit of difference. Every turkey load I tried with both had exactly the same number of pellets in the 10" circle within a couple pellets. I've also tried Lawrence copper plated #5, and if anything it seems to average a few pellets less than the magnum, although not a large enough sample to say for sure. I hadn't given this much thought, but I have BPI's super buck. I'll test the hardness on some and get back to you. It claims it is hard, but that likely means 6% antimony. It is swaged shot. It might seem futile to cast shot, but using normal bullet alloys and water dropping, you can achieve hardness around 25 BHN. No commercial shot can come close. Once this COVID nonsense clears up, I intend to buy both a BB and a #F buck mold from Marty's Arms. I only intend the BB for casting bismuth shot, but I can compare the superbuck #F to my own cast #F for patterns.

I have thought about casting my own, but it is very difficult to find lead in my area (especially wheel weights) so unfortunately I am stuck with buying shot.

[megasupermagnum]

You will be just fine with that BPI superbuck. It is good shot.

[centershot]

I have thought about casting my own, but it is very difficult to find lead in my area (especially wheel weights) so unfortunately I am stuck with buying shot.

With lead wheel weights going the way of the Dodo bird in my area I have given up scrounging lead of unknown alloy. As my stockpile dwindles I'll buy metal of known purity from a local vendor, Rochester Lead Works in Rochester, NY. Or, there's always Rotometals, one of our site sponsors. Casting shot is time consuming (not talking about dripping shot), I'd rather use my time to cast than run helter-skelter to find lead. When you figure what it costs to search out and procure scrap lead, buying clean metal isn't a bad proposition.

[DKG]

With lead wheel weights going the way of the Dodo bird in mt area I have given up scrounging lead of unknown alooy. As my stockpile dwindles I'll buy metal of known purity from a local vendor, Rochester Lead Works in Rochester, NY. Or, there's always Rotometals, one of our site sponsors. Casting shot is time consuming (not talking about dripping shot), I'd rather use my time to cast than run helter-skelter to find lead. When you figure what it costs to search out and procure scrap lead, buying clean metal isn't a bad proposition.

I’ll keep that in mind. Rochester is about 2 hrs west of me actually.


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[centershot]

2 hours west? You must in the Syracuse/Camillus area, we're practically neighbors, well, kinda' sorta'!

[DKG]

About 35-40 mins north of Syracuse depending on which route I take.


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