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Thread: 10mm 175 gr lee tc and tl

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    10mm 175 gr lee tc and tl

    I’m sure this has been asked so bear with me. I haven’t been casting long and I’m having trouble with Barry Darr lube staying in the groove when I pan lube. I’ve warmed up bullets etc but this round it just didn’t stay in.
    I have also used alox on these bullets but haven’t shot any yet. I also have the tlswc from lee and it works great. I want to be able to use the Barry Darr lube as I’ve made up a whole batch and have used it in multi groove 44 cal bullets and seems to stick to those. Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I'm not terribly experienced with pan lubing, but you certainly seem to have a neat & well organized bunch in the photo. How do you take them out of the pan lube? Cookie cutter or do they pop out when pressed. My best has been with a cookie cutter. YMMV

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by 725 View Post
    I'm not terribly experienced with pan lubing, but you certainly seem to have a neat & well organized bunch in the photo. How do you take them out of the pan lube? Cookie cutter or do they pop out when pressed. My best has been with a cookie cutter. YMMV
    I haven’t tried that. I have just popped them out in the past with other bullets using same alloy that worked fine. I’ll try a shell or cookie cutter. Thanks

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master
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    More experienced guys on the site than me, but an open ended cutter allows me to just keep pushing the next one in as the last ones fall out the other end.

    And welcome aboard. I just noticed your post count. You'll like it here.

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by 725 View Post
    More experienced guys on the site than me, but an open ended cutter allows me to just keep pushing the next one in as the last ones fall out the other end.

    And welcome aboard. I just noticed your post count. You'll like it here.
    I haven’t cast much yet but have found the ones I have done work great. I’m just ordering alloy haven’t a good source for lead yet but I’m working on it. I have shot a few of these that the lube stuck too and they seem real accurate and that’s my only real criteria. I’ve been considering a Lyman or rcbs lubrisizer but that’s kind of a big expense right now. I really appreciate how down to earth this site is I’ve been in the xd site and while there’s a lot of info it’s mostly about modifying a brand new pistol to somehow be better. To me it’s all about finding the right load not a bunch of aftermarket add ons. I also make all my own holsters cause I like leather and plastic seems to rule the day when it comes to autos. Thanks again I’ll be finding a cutter that works.

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    Just tumble PC them - super cheap. Or get ludmark liquid wax (mixed with alox) and tumble lube them. Straight LLA works but is SMOKEY! I wore out the old Lee mould but they shoot fine from my XDm & PX4. I wouldn't buy any lube machine stock.
    Rotometal high antimony alloy is great for the 40, heat treat for hot 10mm loads. Mix with pure for plinker loads.
    Seriously, I PC with a plastic bowl and cheap hot plate. 9,40,BO & 308W (AR10). Stuff just works.
    Last edited by popper; 05-19-2020 at 07:30 PM.
    Whatever!

  7. #7
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    I don't pan lube handgun bullets, but I have done rifle bullets the same way you are doing your bullets with pretty good success. I'm not sure why it's not working.

    For handguns, I either tumble lube with straight Lee Alox, or I powdercoat using the dry tumble method. I have used Lee Alox with the Lee 175gr TC in a 10mm without any issues. It's a little messy, but it works.
    ______________________________________________
    Aaron

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by am44mag View Post
    I don't pan lube handgun bullets, but I have done rifle bullets the same way you are doing your bullets with pretty good success. I'm not sure why it's not working.

    For handguns, I either tumble lube with straight Lee Alox, or I powdercoat using the dry tumble method. I have used Lee Alox with the Lee 175gr TC in a 10mm without any issues. It's a little messy, but it works.
    Wow thanks for all the replies. I have some lubed with lla so I’ll give them a run. I really appreciate all the straight up answers. I haven’t ventured into rifle bullets but I have an old 33 wcf I got from grandpa with only 17 bullets that may become my first try at them. I’ve been working hard on this 10mm and want a 175 running as close to 1300+ as I c a n get. I have been impressed with group size using both the tc and tl swc design just got to get it to be the best it can be

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richnewcast View Post
    Wow thanks for all the replies. I have some lubed with lla so I’ll give them a run. I really appreciate all the straight up answers. I haven’t ventured into rifle bullets but I have an old 33 wcf I got from grandpa with only 17 bullets that may become my first try at them. I’ve been working hard on this 10mm and want a 175 running as close to 1300+ as I c a n get. I have been impressed with group size using both the tc and tl swc design just got to get it to be the best it can be
    I wouldn't worry too much about chasing velocity. Find something accurate and fun to shoot and stick with it. My 10mm is a 4.5" XDm. With a near max load of Blue Dot and that Lee 175gr TC, I'm getting 1185 FPS. It's not 1300 FPS, but it's still a very powerful, stout, accurate load. Short of Grizzly, I doubt there is anything in the Americas that would be able to tell the difference between a 1185 FPS and a 1300 FPS load. Looking at Hogdgon's and Alliant's data (both available for free online), Blue Dot, Longshot, Power Pistol, and BE-86 seem to produce the most velocity. Most fall off between 1250 FPS and 1280 FPS in a 5" barrel.

    The 33 WCF is one you don't see too often anymore. When you get ready to cast for it, you might want to look at Arsenal and NOE's molds. Find a good round nose flat point, and it should be a great hunting round.
    Last edited by am44mag; 05-19-2020 at 10:27 PM.
    ______________________________________________
    Aaron

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by am44mag View Post
    I wouldn't worry too much about chasing velocity. Find something accurate and fun to shoot and stick with it. My 10mm is a 4.5" XDm. With a near max load of Blue Dot and that Lee 175gr TC, I'm getting 1185 FPS. It's not 1300 FPS, but it's still a very powerful, stout, accurate load. Short of Grizzly, I doubt there is anything in the Americas that would be able to tell the difference between a 1185 FPS and a 1300 FPS load. Looking at Hogdgon's and Alliant's data (both available for free online), Blue Dot, Longshot, Power Pistol, and BE-86 seem to produce the most velocity. Most fall off between 1250 FPS and 1280 FPS in a 5" barrel.

    The 33 WCF is one you don't see too often anymore. When you get ready to cast for it, you might want to look at Arsenal and NOE's molds. Find a good round nose flat point, and it should be a great hunting round.
    I am shooting the same 10 an xdm 4.5”. I have got 180 gr Fmj fp hornady bullets to 1250 with 13.5 gr aa#9 and still have room to go up. I haven’t run any of my lead boolits over chrono but I’m pretty sure I’m around 1150 to 1200 using 800x and long shot. The plonked load I have worked up is 5.4 gr titegroup under 180 cast or hsm plated fp running around 1080. I will say the xdm I have seems to shoot pretty fast for published data. Don’t know if it’s the match barrel or what but I am 1 full grain below max using aa#9 and am getting 1250 w hornady. I don’t usually worry with velocity accuracy is more important. I only run my 240 gr 44 mag loads to 1250 to 1300 out of my 4” redhawk and shoot a lot of 44 special “skeeter” loads that are plenty stout and accurate. I will definitely work for accurate first and power second but believe the 10 is capable of both. When I get to that 33 you can bet I’ll be looking for load help with that. I’ve shot a couple of the pre 1940 jacketed bullets that came with it and it shoots great.

  11. #11
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    50+ years a caster and loader .
    The absolute best money I ever spent was on a Lyman 450 lube/sizer .
    With one cycle of the handle and a tweek on the lube wrench , a boolit gets:
    1.) sized
    2.) gas check installed and crimped on (if needed)
    3.) groove(s) filled cleanly with lube
    4.) out pops a completely ready to shoot boolit ...

    Save a few $ and get one ...fast and easy . Beats tumble lubing , pan lubing and spray on lubes Seven Ways To Sunday and does it in one swift cycle of the handle .
    Sweet little thing to have ... try it !
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    50+ years a caster and loader .
    The absolute best money I ever spent was on a Lyman 450 lube/sizer .
    With one cycle of the handle and a tweek on the lube wrench , a boolit gets:
    1.) sized
    2.) gas check installed and crimped on (if needed)
    3.) groove(s) filled cleanly with lube
    4.) out pops a completely ready to shoot boolit ...

    Save a few $ and get one ...fast and easy . Beats tumble lubing , pan lubing and spray on lubes Seven Ways To Sunday and does it in one swift cycle of the handle .
    Sweet little thing to have ... try it !
    Gary
    I definitely have it in my plans especially when I get to that 33wcf. Gas checks will be a must for that if I can find them. I say again I’m really impressed with everyone’s responses no ridicule just real advice. Awsome site!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Try a bit more petroleum jelly.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master

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    For gas checks go to The Gas Check Superstore - Sage's Outdoors - www.sagesoutdoors.com
    There are other places but Sages has the largest variety and stock .
    Gary
    Certified Cajun
    Proud Member of The Basket of Deplorables
    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richnewcast View Post
    I definitely have it in my plans especially when I get to that 33wcf. Gas checks will be a must for that if I can find them. I say again I’m really impressed with everyone’s responses no ridicule just real advice. Awsome site!
    Keep your eyes on the Swappin & Sellin subforum here. Those luber/sizers pop up pretty often there along with the dies for them. I got my Lyman 45 pretty cheap that way.

    This forum is pretty great. I've become a far better reloader and caster because of the great advice given to me by folks on this forum.

    Quote Originally Posted by gwpercle View Post
    For gas checks go to The Gas Check Superstore - Sage's Outdoors - www.sagesoutdoors.com
    There are other places but Sages has the largest variety and stock .
    Gary
    I second this. I buy my gas checks exclusively from Sage's, and they're a member here. Their prices are pretty great, and they have a lot of options that you're not really going to find anywhere else. What's really nice is that you can just order smaller amounts for testing instead of having to commit to a full 1000x box of checks. They have 250x and 500x options.
    ______________________________________________
    Aaron

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check