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Thread: Let's revisit some of those home made case lubes..........

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



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    Let's revisit some of those home made case lubes..........

    Always looking for ways to avoid spending money, I finally decided on a home made case lube............a mixture of castor oil and denatured alcohol in a spray bottle. I've been using it for well over a year and it performs quite well, but has the same problem as a lot of other home brew formulas................how in the dickens do you remove it after sizing? You can't leave it on the cases, so it has to go.

    I've used hot water, hot water and soap, hand cleaning with a rag, etc........all of which kind of negates the "advantages" of a do it yourself lube. Cleaning in alcohol would probably be best, but that's pretty expensive. You could pitch the cases in the tumbler I guess, but all that does is foul the media eventually.

    Another solution I found was dissolving Lee case lube in a small tub of water, then swirling the cases through it and allowing them to dry. It works well, distributing lube all over the cases and ordinary handling during the reloading process removes it. The only disadvantage: waiting for those cases to dry, usually overnight.

    Are the lanolin based case lubes easier to remove? Since most of those recipies call for alcohol also, it sounds like the same problem.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Try tumbling them!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Liquid lanolin plus Heet gasoline treatment from a spray bottle works for me for all but case necks. The spray would work if I stood cases up to spray them. I de-prime, clean, lube and size, then clean again. Stainless pins and water are your friend here - no media to foul.
    Tony

  4. #4
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    As AnthonyB said. Stainless pins and water are your friend here - no media to foul.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master



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    Hmmm.............stainless pins and tumbler. Good idea! I haven't treated myself to new gear in quite awhile!

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use lacquer thinner as my all purpose shop solvent. And yes I know the dangers inherent with using L.T. Only used outside and once drained off, whatever I have cleaned stays outside until all vapors/odors are gone. Acetone works in a pinch.
    NRA Life 1992
    My avatar is almost a dead ringer for my little buddy Chico. Six pounds of mean that thought he was a Pit Bull. Miss that little guy.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Lacquer thinner IS mainly acetone with other VOC's added to it to adjust the drying time of nitrocellulose lacquers. Each maker has their own specific mixture of acetone and the other "stuff" to formulate their specific brand. That is why some brands are better than others. And smell different. I use only pure acetone in my shop for cleaning. Every brand of pure acetone is consistent and works the same. And I use lacquer thinner for ONLY thinning spraying and/or brushing lacquers.

    As far as case lubes I just buy the little white tub of Unique Case Lube. I generally have to buy a new one very 5-6 years! The stuff goes a l-o-n-g way and wipes off easily with just a rag. And costs so very little, much more time-efficient that wasting time trying to mix up some witch's brew lube.

    banger

  8. #8
    Boolit Master WRideout's Avatar
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    From my limited research, it looks like HEET gas line antifreeze is basically methanol. Probably most of the other brands are too. If you only need small quantities, that may be the way to go.

    Wayne
    What doesn't kill you makes you stronger - or else it gives you a bad rash.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy Stewbaby's Avatar
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    Red heet, too much water in the yellow. 1:12 or so


  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Most people will waste more money experimenting than a 10 year suppcosts.a good lube costs.
    EDG

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    I use olive oil. I put some on the lube pad and rub it in. A treatment last a long time.
    One round at a time.
    Member of Valley Gun & Country Club. Elysburg Pa.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    I use a recipe or two from a member that passed recently . The first is a mixture of lanolin and Vaseline that I apply to a pad to lube bottle necked brass before full length sizing . The second is a mixture of lanolin and Heet the red jug as posted above to mix up a spray lube used to lube strait walled brass .
    I try to prepare brass in advance to be loaded - by depriming & resizing it - then a quick bath in citrus acid + hot water to remove the case lube - then a short run through the vibrating tumbler with NU-Finish added to the media .
    Since I started using lizard bedding media I haven't had a problem with plugged primer pocket flash holes .
    I put together this process with information from members here at Cast Boolits and am quite happy with the results .

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I just use the LEE case sizing lube. Mix 50/50 with water and it goes a L O N G way. Apply to the cases, let it dry, then size and deprime, and then into the walnut shell media. ALL of the lube comes off and the brass is clean and shiny.

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by WRideout View Post
    From my limited research, it looks like HEET gas line antifreeze is basically methanol. Probably most of the other brands are too. If you only need small quantities, that may be the way to go.

    Wayne
    Just buy REAL methanol in the paint department of Lowe's or Home Despot. 100% alcohol. Get in either quarts or gallons. I buy all my shop solvents a gallon at at time.....saves money.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master flyingmonkey35's Avatar
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    Honestly I go back to hornady case lube (the paste) over my homemade lanion / 99% alcohol mixture.

    I find both work very well. But for bigger cases I find the other stuff just works.



    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  16. #16
    Boolit Mold

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    I use 91% rubbing alcohol and lanolin. A scoop or a big drool of lanolin with enough alcohol to dissolve it in a pump bottle. This is my "cheap" version of Dillon's Case Lube.

    I use Imperial Sizing Wax for forming a lot of cases, and Ballistol for more and more sizing chores. The lanolin can build up in dies. Ditto Imperial. I haven't seen Ballistol do that yet.
    -Molon Labe-

  17. #17
    Boolit Buddy Dapaki's Avatar
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    I too use 91% rubbing alcohol and lanolin, a 4oz bottle on lanolin into a 32oz bottle of 91%. Cheap, easy to remove, wipes off with a clean rag, hands get some on them, just rub it in.

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Buy a can of Bag Balm for 9 bucks ,a light finger swipe is all that is needed and the unused left over container can be willed to your grandchildren:
    Regards
    John

  19. #19
    some petrol neat to wash cases your done

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stewbaby View Post
    Red heet, too much water in the yellow. 1:12 or so

    This and I fill a gallon ziplock about half full of brass. Couple squirts. Tumble a little. Couple more squirts and tumble thoroughly (10-20 seconds). Seems to always get enough inside enough of them too, even with the bottle necks.

    Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check