Let's revisit some of those home made case lubes..........

[Zingger]

John Boy beat me to it! Bag balm works wonders. I learned this to my frustrations with the 444 marlin. It was the only lube that wouldn't leave stuck cases for me to deal with. Possibly a bad die, but I have never, Never had that many issues with a cartridge. I have used a few different including the Hornady wipe on as well as the Royal Case and Die lube. RCBS stuff too. I still prefer the BB over them all.

[Mytmousemalibu]

I use Dillon DCL (now made myself) which is lanolin mixed in isopropyl alcohol.

I put a good 2-handful scoop of brass into a plastic bag and a couple mists of DCL and couple of straight alcohol. Shake and mix to distribute and dump out. I keep using the same old bag as it collects residual lube that participates with every use. The case mouths tend to scrape up tiny spots of lube that keep the expander ball lubed. The alcohol also "reactivates" dried lube.

I do not bother with removal. The lanolin coat is very thin on the brass but its more than enough to be effective but not enough to be a problem. Sure you can feel it on the completed ammo but its never been a problem so its not worth my time removing it. It doesn't kill primers, doesn't foul the gun, nothing problematic has come up in the 5yrs or so of using this method 20,000rds per year average.

[gwpercle]

Ordinary case lube - dissolve as much Lee Case Lube in a small glass jar of Denatured Alcohol as it will dissolve , strain into a small spray bottle , use as a spray on case lube .

Really Tough Resizing case lube - STP Oil Treatment ...messy but the best , apply by rolling cases on a clean ink pad that has had STP applied to it . You will have to remove it from the sized case but the stuff works!
Gary

[1hole]

Always looking for ways to avoid spending money, I finally decided on a home made case lube............a mixture of castor oil and denatured alcohol in a spray bottle. I've been using it for well over a year and it performs quite well, but has the same problem as a lot of other home brew formulas................how in the dickens do you remove it after sizing? You can't leave it on the cases, so it has to go.

I've used hot water, hot water and soap, hand cleaning with a rag, etc........all of which kind of negates the "advantages" of a do it yourself lube. Cleaning in alcohol would probably be best, but that's pretty expensive. You could pitch the cases in the tumbler I guess, but all that does is foul the media eventually.

Another solution I found was dissolving Lee case lube in a small tub of water, then swirling the cases through it and allowing them to dry. It works well, distributing lube all over the cases and ordinary handling during the reloading process removes it. The only disadvantage: waiting for those cases to dry, usually overnight.

Are the lanolin based case lubes easier to remove? Since most of those recipies call for alcohol also, it sounds like the same problem.

Castor oil is stinky and quite slick but, like lanolin and STP, it's nasty stuff to use. There are much cleaner alternatives that really don't need to be removed. Both castor and lanolin ARE oils so water can't do much good for cleaning. If you really want to use either of them wet a cloth or paper towel with mineral spirits/odorless paint thinner (Walmart's paint dept) to cut and wipe off the oil. But, IMHO, it's a PITA to use such oily stuff for sizing.

If you're looking for a spray try Hornady's One Shot; it works fine IF the user bothers to read and follow the instructions but for those who think they don't need no stinking instructions it's not much good. (But that applies to anything that's used incorrectly doesn't it? )

(There's a sticky on case lubes on the Reloading Tools forum.)

[NyFirefighter357]

This is what I use, no need to clean off after either

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...1028/100660159

[Wayne Smith]

I'm in the Bag Balm users group. Have been for years. Not only good for a lube it is also good for your hands.

[fguffey]

I can not take credit for the No Name case lube. Many years ago I could not understand why there had to be a case lube made for case lubing so a gathered up all the lube I could find and or had available. Everything seemed to work until the going got tough, when it got tuff I eliminated a few of the lubes and started on the next batch. And then finally I found a lube that was slicker than okra, the ability of the brass to resist sizing was eliminated.

I saved all of the case lube by RCBS, Lyman, Dillon ect. for the easy stuff but when the going got tuff I used the no-name stuff. And now that time is running out I am running out of no-name lube.

I have thought it would be nice if I checked the origin and then I thought about it; I believe I would have trouble finding anyone that would appreciate the effort.

F. Guffey

[1hole]

I can not take credit for the No Name case lube. .... I have thought it would be nice if I checked the origin and then I thought about it; I believe I would have trouble finding anyone that would appreciate the effort.

Guffy, I'm puzzled; in a longish post you refer to your favorite "No Name" case lube and how diligently you searched for it. But you've said nothing that can help (or matters to) anyone, and then end up recognising that no one cares what you won't say. So, I wonder; "What's your point?"

[1hole]

I'm in the Bag Balm users group. Have been for years. Not only good for a lube it is also good for your hands.

I've used two brands of bag balm, both from a farm supply store. Both work very well for case lube but the lubracating ingredient in both is wax and lanolin.

[Good Cheer]

Got an old pimento jar with lanolin and alcohol in it.
The alcohol thins it down a little so it smears around easier.

[JM7.7x58]

For full length resizing rifle brass or forming 7.7x58mm from LC 30-06 military brass, I use an old bottle of Sears air tool oil. It is a red colored oil that reminds me of Marvel Mystery Oil or ATF. I started using it because that was what was near at hand. I keep using it because it seems to work just fine.

5 to 10 drops in a zip lock bag, rub them around, wipe off the necks to avoid dents, and start forming.

Oily brass is no probem. I do all my reloading in the basement and have access to a huge double basin utility sink. All my brass gets washed with hot water, soap, and a bit of vinegar. My setup for brass washing is a three gallon bucket, an old steel broom handle for stirring, and a salad spinner for draining.

JM

[Alferd Packer]

Anyone tried vegetable shortening like Crisco?
I also use it for bullet lube on light cast bullet loads like the subsonic loads.

[Tazlaw]

I’ve started cleaning my brass twice since I got a Frankford Arsenal rotary wet tumbler with SS pins. It just doesn’t take very long, especially the second time. I will deprime with universal de primer die, then clean. I’ll then lube, size, trim, and maybe anneal. I have a salt bath annealer set up. After all that, I’ll clean again with hot water and dawn and little lemishine. Brass comes out perfect. I like the lanolin and alcohol mix, anywhere from 5:1 to 12:1. I just mix up a little at a time. The old saying “a little goes a long way” is true. Having a can of breakclean is handy if you start getting buildup.

[1hole]

This is what I use, no need to clean off after either

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-To...1028/100660159

All of the several electric cable pulling lubes I've used are simply soft soaps. It does work pretty well as a case sizing lube but it's in the same general price range as a Tractor Supply Company store tin of udder/bag balm and that works slightly better. IMHO.

[gwpercle]

Before you buy a big ole bottle of Castor Oil to make case lube with .... Smell It !
You just might not like the funky smell .
Lanolin , Bag Balm and Lee's Case Lube all smell much better , use one of them to mix up a spray case lube .
I like the Lee case lube because it's not greasy but a water soluble wax , when dry it will just wipe off with a dry or damp cloth .
Gary

[SOFMatchstaff]

As I've post before, I use the Blue Magic conditioner and hair dressing available at the Wally world ethnic hair care section. It works great and smells nice. 50BMG to 22 Hornet and its cheep too. That being said, I still await the arrival of the Sooper Secret Slicker than Okra Snot "Guffey Grease" that seems to be hiding in the wings waiting for the moment to slide out and Looobe the heck out of anything that squeeks. God I miss my Herters catalog....

[Conditor22]

If my lanolin / red heet doesn't work I use mink oil

[prs]

I usually do this in batches that are about 3/4 full of Thumblers Tumbler tub (probably about a gallon or so. For easy stuff, after wet tumbling, I drain the dirty water in a sink basin, then rinse with cold water and stir around with my hands to be sure well drained. While brass is still surface wet I put a dab of Lee Case Lube on my hands and work through the brass again like Midas admiring his gold until well distributed; it gets into the necks very well. I dry in 4 tier food dehydrator and it does not take long at all, but I usually run it over night as I do this in bulk and not right when I am ready to reload. This works great for straight walled cases in steel dies and most necked cases in dies with carbide. School of hard nockes did teach met to increase the lube dose for some difficult bottle neck cases. I use a bigger dose of Lee Case Lube, like how the tooth paste commercials showed us how to overload our toothbrushes to increase their sales.

Bag balm is great for winter damaged hands, but it and oils and such are messy and require removal. I found the One Shot product to be a little messy to, but it worked great.

prs

[Martin Luber]

I use olive oil. I put some on the lube pad and rub it in. A treatment last a long time.

Don't forget the garlic!

[AnthonyB]

I will try try the ziploc bag trick to see if I can make it work on case necks. Thanks for that tip!
Tony