brass neck stuck in chamber due to machining flaw, now what?

[Beaumont78]

How this gun passed inspection back in the day is a mystery to me, especially since on every screw on the gun there's at least 3 inspector proof marks.



I loaded a live round, went to the range and was done after firing that 1 round; the brass neck tore off right where that galling groove sits, leaving the neck in the chamber. Sucker is stuck in there good since the brass flowed into that groove.

Caliber is 43 beaumont (obsolete) so i don't think i'll find finish reamers to ream that brass out.

The plan is to take that now piece of shortened brass, load a shorter bullet with a mild load, fire it and and see if that broken neck wants to blow out that way, since it's otherwise not moving. I don't expect much in the way of accuracy with this circus going on, but only one way to find out. My theory here being that there's no actual obstruction in the part of the bullet since the inner diameter of that brass is larger then the diameter of the bullet. Off course i will have to check after each shot to verify that piece of brass has not moved. Not ideal, but i'm hoping that the combustion might blow out that piece after the bullet has passed through it....

And once that piece of broken neck is out then i will have to trim the brass to below the groove, and perhaps use a longer bullet. Even without part of the neck not here in the brass i still have enough neck to seat a shorter bullet firmly. If it stays there for a while then i'm stuck with short bullets and a big jump to the lands.

Unless there's another way to get this brass piece out that is not becoming a prohibitively expensive exercise ?

See pics, any input as to how to approach this situation is appreciated.


Fired with part of neck torn off;


Piece of neck stuck in groove / bore;


And not to worry, not going to do anything rash, just looking for ideas..

[gnostic]

I'd soak it in ATF and kerosine for awhile and see if I could pull it out with an oversized brass brush before I'd resort to beating on it...

[roadie]

I really don't think shooting it out is a good plan, at least not with a bullet. I'd be more inclined to trying what gnostic has suggested. If that won't work, then using a slim tool that won't mar the chamber, and try to get under the brass, lift it enough to drift it out.

I figured that chamber would give extraction problems, but I didn't forsee it cutting brass right off, that's really nasty.

[cwtebay]

Two thoughts - 1) get a can of compressed air and spray the brass piece with the can inverted. The freezing may shrink it away enough to get it out. 2) a finish reamer is available for rent from someplace like Pacific.

That's a crazy experience!

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[Hamish]

That there is a bright ring on the neck if the unfired cartridge in exactly the same place as the neck separation on the fired cartridge raises alarm flags for me.

[tominboise]

I had this happen on a K Hornet awhile back. I used a spiral type screw extractor and it came right out. I can't post a pic or I'd show you.

[Cosmic_Charlie]

Warm the chamber area of the barrel up to 150 f and then try that oversize brush from the muzzle.

[Conditor22]

cast the chamber then tap it out with a brass rod.

[indian joe]

How this gun passed inspection back in the day is a mystery to me, especially since on every screw on the gun there's at least 3 inspector proof marks.



I loaded a live round, went to the range and was done after firing that 1 round; the brass neck tore off right where that galling groove sits, leaving the neck in the chamber. Sucker is stuck in there good since the brass flowed into that groove.

Caliber is 43 beaumont (obsolete) so i don't think i'll find finish reamers to ream that brass out.

The plan is to take that now piece of shortened brass, load a shorter bullet with a mild load, fire it and and see if that broken neck wants to blow out that way, since it's otherwise not moving. I don't expect much in the way of accuracy with this circus going on, but only one way to find out. My theory here being that there's no actual obstruction in the part of the bullet since the inner diameter of that brass is larger then the diameter of the bullet. Off course i will have to check after each shot to verify that piece of brass has not moved. Not ideal, but i'm hoping that the combustion might blow out that piece after the bullet has passed through it....

And once that piece of broken neck is out then i will have to trim the brass to below the groove, and perhaps use a longer bullet. Even without part of the neck not here in the brass i still have enough neck to seat a shorter bullet firmly. If it stays there for a while then i'm stuck with short bullets and a big jump to the lands.

Unless there's another way to get this brass piece out that is not becoming a prohibitively expensive exercise ?

See pics, any input as to how to approach this situation is appreciated.


Fired with part of neck torn off;


Piece of neck stuck in groove / bore;


And not to worry, not going to do anything rash, just looking for ideas..

make a flat pointy chisel out of a piece of BRASS welding rod - needs a thin point and a curve down so it will chisel under the edge of the broken neck piece - once you can get it started tap in with a small hammer to crumple the leftover chunk - should popout easily.

Dont use a screw extractor if any part of that thing touches the chamber wall you will do more damage than is already there.

[country gent]

I would try the chamber cast first, plug bore leaving 1/4" between case moth and plug. A patch works for the plug. Then with as close to bore dia rod from the muzzle tap it out. Warm chamber area up good with a hair drier or mild heat gun to around 150* while the cero safe is melting. @ people might be best here one to warm and heat the chamber area and 1 to melt pour the CS. You need the barrel up to temp so the CS flows into the front of the case mouth filling the front of the chamber. Once cooled to room temp the rod and hammer to drive it out.

[uscra112]

I would try the chamber cast first, plug bore leaving 1/4" between case moth and plug. A patch works for the plug. Then with as close to bore dia rod from the muzzle tap it out. Warm chamber area up good with a hair drier or mild heat gun to around 150* while the cero safe is melting. @ people might be best here one to warm and heat the chamber area and 1 to melt pour the CS. You need the barrel up to temp so the CS flows into the front of the case mouth filling the front of the chamber. Once cooled to room temp the rod and hammer to drive it out.

What he said. That's how the pros do it. If you don't have any Cerrosafe, order it up and wait patiently until it arrives.

[BK7saum]

cast the chamber then tap it out with a brass rod.

Yes, I had a case separate on a 300 BLK. Pushed a patched jag in just ahead of the chamber. Then poured pewter into the chamber. Tapped the separated case right out. Nothing else worked for me. I would've used cerrosafe but didbt have any.

[Beaumont78]

This worked;



Now loading a few short cases to see if i can still get this gun to shoot

[indian joe]

This worked;



Now loading a few short cases to see if i can still get this gun to shoot

AhHa ! brass chisel idea! well done! - its too simple a fix for most fellers to contemplate ......................

[Conditor22]

Good job!!! necessity is the mother of invention.

[gwpercle]

I'd soak it in ATF and kerosine for awhile and see if I could pull it out with an oversized brass brush before I'd resort to beating on it...

ATF and Acetone is also great penetrating oil ...the acetone is the secrete .
Mix it 50 -50 .

For heavens sake don't try shooting it out ....that never ends well ...trust me !
Gary

[gwpercle]

This worked;



Now loading a few short cases to see if i can still get this gun to shoot

Awesome ....love a story with a happy ending !
Gary