I purchased a medium-loop lever from Ranger Point Precision for my 1894C and couldn’t be happier.
I purchased a medium-loop lever from Ranger Point Precision for my 1894C and couldn’t be happier.
And the lever is not just a simple lever. It serves the dual purpose of bolt lugs, holding the bolt closed and determining headspace. So it needs to be a certain hardness and shaped properly to interface with the bolt. An aftermarket one will be oversized and require careful fitting.
You don't know overpriced until you start working on Makino CNC's. Their barrel screens are nothing more than a fancy window screen with a few holes punched into it. They want $3000. There has been many days I've considered starting a business selling aftermarket CNC parts.
One of the few drawbacks of capitalism, if you really want something and someone has it and you can't get anywhere else, you have to pay to get it.
Political correctness is a national suicide pact.
I am a sovereign individual, accountable
only to God and my own conscience.
Where can you get one for only $100?
Romans 10:9"...If you confess with your mouth Jesus as Lord, and believe in your heart that God raised Jesus from the dead, you shall be saved.."
My trading feedback thread: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...t=#post3092680
I believe the levers are a forging to start with. That adds a big power hammer and forge dies to the equipment list. but it saves on material costs and machining. labor machines fixtures all add to the cost way over the cost of materials. Then add in the cost of expendables like cutters coolants wheels for finishing ect.
I believe If I wanted one I would order a replacement loop or scrounge a used one. ( gun parts corp or other used vendors) And cut and rework myself to just what was wanted. The biffest thing would be the welding it back together in the new form. The rest can be one with hand tools.
My father did that for his straight stock Marlin lever-action in 44 Magnum in the 90's. A bit of cutting and welding and a bit of judicious filing before a reblue and boom, big D-loop lever for a big gloved hand for winter hunting in Maine. My older brother inherited that rifle when I got the Win 94 in 32 Win Spl. I think we both appreciate the rifles we got but I do remember my dad doing that to his "new" rifle after one weekend in November.
I Cast my Boolits, Therefore I am Happy.
Bona Fide member of the Jeff Brown Hunt Club
ahhhhh come on trip... just buy the thing... then maybe send me a pic... then I will have to buy one, and together we will bost back up our limping economy!!!
Any technology not understood, can seem like Magic!!!
I will love the Lord with all my heart, all my soul, and all my mind.
I pistol shoot with a club member who is also into Cowboy shooting matches...and places high in the larger matches. Several months ago I asked him if I shot put the big loop on my Marlin 38/357 and he said it is all hype watch what the winners use. Stock loops are quicker to shoot. afish4570
Thanks for the heads up...
I tried a large loop yesterday and don’t like it. Way to much room in the loop as it felt awkward to cycle. I have to move my arm even more forward to cycle the action.
I have a 32.5” arm length for archery string length and with my limbsaver grind to fit butt pad I’m really reaching the way it is. I’ll stick with my smaller factory loop.
I’d have to cut my stock down To shorten the length of pull to cycle a large loop without dropping the gun from my shoulder. Maybe I’ll do it on a different rifle done day. This one is staying factory original accept for the butt pad, optic, and rings.
Last edited by Tripplebeards; 05-12-2020 at 08:10 AM.
That is really not true at all, some CNC machines are defiantly not suitable for one offs or short runs but there are machines that are designed expressly for that kind of work. I run machines like these at work and according to one of my older coworkers they are the reason we put significantly more work through the shop despite having one less person than when he started
https://www.southwesternindustries.c...ucts/bed-mills
They use what is referred to as conversational programming instead of traditional G code programming. It is quite intuitive and quick in my experience.
quando omni flunkus moritati
Take off the old loop, cut weld and file and polish and then reblue it. There you go only abut 2 hours of your work...by the way how much do you make an hour? And you do have all the tools and a bluing tank right?
try buying motor bike brake discs/rotors.
The only place these big loops are useful is in the movies or if you hunt in gloves ------for the rest of - stock standard mostly is better - that said - I have a 71 browning 348 that dings my knuckles on the two middle fingers because of the steep curve that matches the stock shape - doesnt need a big loop but would be nicer if the outer part of the lever was straight rather than curved - might mess up the lines of the gun but would be nicer to shoot I reckon.
You think $100 is bad for a lever?
Try buying one of those little flip up ladder sights.
I bought one and insult to injury the dovetail in my 94 is too large and the dovetail in my Interarms Rossi 44 is to small and wrong angle to boot.
The new Rossi 357 it would fit on but I like the sight on it.
Someday I will make it fit on one of my rifles, until then it just sits in a drawer.
Tell me about it! I just had to pay $1876.00 yesterday, which I didn't have, and drive to Compton too boot!!! to get a rebuilt Control for my Mill which is the primary machine in my shop. This was just because the CRT in the control box croaked! IE: you can't see nothin'.
The CRT is now an LCD and will never croak, but why couldn't they just replace the CRT in MY Control for $600. Oh wait they could,,,
IN 6-8 weeks!
Obviously I couldn't be down that long, so bend over and make sure you swallow as you're driving back up the 405 on the way home.
You pays your money and takes your chances. Life goes on and really nobody cares about my trials and tribulations, but me.
Randy
"It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
www.buchananprecisionmachine.com
Exactly what I did to my 1972 vintage Marlin 1895 ,I lengthened the lever loop so I could get all of my fingers inside the loop to prevent ripped skin between my pinkie and third finger .Just cut up a grade five 3/8 bolt with a long shank , cut the lever and added 1inch of bolt top and bottom welded it and filed it all down to match . Reblued and its a win , took about 1 1/2 hrs plus blueing time .I did this in the late 70's ,dont recall seeing aftermarket levers in those days ,but then no internet either. The lever looks factory until you compare to a rifle with the factory unmodified loop.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |