Need tips on staging a BB into my HP to aid feeding

[Tripplebeards]

I’m having feeding issues in my 7600 35 whelen. It’s a new rifle and is on its way bs knot Remington because it won’t feed J words either. When it comes back I know I’m still going to have cast feeding issues because if the wide metplate. I am pondering the idea of trying to smooth/swage the lead HP around a .177 cal BB so my boolit tip has a nice round tip to aid in sliding off my magazine feeding ramp and into my chamber. I thought of PCing the BB and baking it in HP hole along with the boolit itself so the PC will “glue” it in place but I will still will have a lip bump on my HP to catch. Any ideas how to get a smooth line between my lead hp and the BB? I sanded some of the ramp away and have the cast HP feeding off one side of the the mag but then the next round rotates to feed off the opposite side and jams against the feed ramp. Maybe when it cones back from Remington it will feed with cast and I won’t have to worry about it but since I have some time while waiting I’d like to be prepared for plan B.

I could fill in the gap between the BB and HP lip with apoxy and sand it smooth? I’d rather try something that might be more consistent.




Hers what I’m up against ...



I could even try seating a boolit with a Flat seater die pusher to see if the BB gets swaged down onto the HP cavity?

[rancher1913]

corbin has a ballistic tip ball like that made for swagging, I would think it would work just pushing it into the hp, if I recall right they come in several sizes and colors.

[Tripplebeards]

I’m going to try this. Some guy heats up an Airsoft BB and swages it down with a seater die. I just have to find the correct seater die pusher cone to do so. I’ll probably start with my 35 cal conical?

https://youtu.be/3WCtiv7SRw4

[seetrout]

Are you sure it's not catching on the magazine?
I would be concerned about the bb dislodging and jamming the magazine or the rifle action.
Does the front of the magazine scrape off the PC when it does feed?

[Tripplebeards]

I ground the magazine down to the catch in a big “u” shape like the exact same factory shape/contour but almost a 1/4” lower. The left side slides right in the chamber but when the next round comes up in magazine it feeds from the magazine from on the opposite side. I looked with a flashlight and took a photo of it as well so I could zoom in on it. It clears the magazine and hits the feed ramp. The the 7600 has a feed ramp that looks like a wall on the outer edges. That’s where my boolits hang up. Jacked or cast. It makes no difference.

I sure Remington will replace the barrel as the feed ramp is ruff and jagged. Their barrel machining tool must have been pretty dull. Besides I can see orange rust on the barrel lug that’s all one piece. I’m sure the new one will have a smoother ramp. My guess is the walls will still be on the feed ramp though. Since ive only pit 12 rounds through it singly and it jams pointed J words right off the bat I figured I’d let Remington fox the jacketed feeding issues. Who knows, it might cycle my cast just fine when it comes back but I doubt it without tweeting the magazines. If it was an old used used gun I would have stoned the ramp smooth and widened it a little but didn’t want to take the chance of screw it up since it was basically brand new.


The gun is pointed down. You can see the right side where it’s jamming is really chewed up. It was jamming on the left side till I lowered the feed ramp on the magazine. If the magazine just fed off the left side I’d be good to go.


To answer your question, no, there is no PC scraping. The metplate stops on the feed ramp with my action basically jammed completely open. The metplate is a good 1/16” or more completely cleared and up from my magazine after I modified it. I won’t get that mag back as I sent it not Remington with the gun. They told me they will be replacing it which is fine with me as it took all of a few minutes to modify it. The “wings” on the sides of the magazine are to long as well. They are keeping the round held down and feeding onto the front of my magazine. Either shortening the front of the wings or bending them up in final inch or so of releasing the round I believe will let the round start to release and rise up. Sounds like feeding issues and the 7600 35 Whelen is kinda common. I googled quite a few owners with the same issue.


I’m sure if the feeding ramp sides were stoned at more an angle and polished smooth it would fix the jacked ammo feeding issues and a few extra “cast only” modified magazines would take care of the cast feeding issues. Guess I’ll find out when my gun comes back from Remington if the just didn’t a barrel swap and no ramp polishing...which I’m going to guess is what will happen.

In the mean time I’ll try and melt and swage some air soft BBs in some HP cavities so I have a plan B.


Instead of sanding the front of my magazine down I probably could’ve just bent the top edge and tried to curl in and down to make more of a smoother feeding surface. That way there is no sharp edge.

[Tripplebeards]

Here’s try number 7 and 8 with melting and swaging airsoft BBs into the HP cavities...



I used a 44 mag die with a conical seater rcbs sent me to seat FTX bullets. The best fitment came from running the boolit up into the die with a BB in it to widen out the HP cavity. I then baked the boolits with the air soft BB at 350 till the BB looked like it was expanding and stated to melt. I then ran it up into my my 44 mag conical seater die and used a little pressure to bend the HP into the conical seater die to taper it back in. I used to much force and bent some of the bases and also squished the boolits so they all had to be re sized. Some were so large I scraped off the PC and stuck one in my sizer. Here’s how they looked after I spread the HP cavity open with the air soft BB before re inserting the air soft BB , heating at 350 for about 10/15 minutes, and Staging it down. I don’t how accurate they will or won’t be as you can see some got more sizing then others. I’m sure if I set up the press stroke so it applies the same pressure every time I might get more consistent.

The one in the middle and on the right were pressed open in my die with airsoft BB before heating and swaging it in place.



And after...




And after resizing again...





I’m sure like this they’ll would feed just fine now out of my magazine.

[Tripplebeards]

Here is try 1 through 6. The first two were with a shallower seater plug. The other four the HP cavity wasn’t pressed opened and widened. Also less heat temps were used. You can see I squished the boolits when using to much force to try and press on the airsoft BBs. I’m guessing they were melted enough yet.



And here are three I put to much pressure on when squishing down the BB.

I scraped the lead and PC right off when sizing down.



Hopefully my gun feeds just fine when it comes back from the factory or I can adjust my magazine to get them to feed without these tips. I just have a feeling I’m probably never going to get a consistent insert without bending the nose cone of my boolit.

I was using a pretty soft alloy. 16:1 pewter and lead mix with a BH of 7.8. I noticed a couple of my bases were crooked after I applied to much pressure when swaging the HP taper back in towards the BB. Maybe some harder 50/50 alloy, hotter temps, and less pressure will keep from over sizing my boolits when pressing in the airsoft BB”s.


These tips will pop right out with little force so I’ll have to super glue them in place.

[Forrest r]

Not really much help.

Years ago I was adding the airsoft glow in the dark bb's to different hp bullets. Mostly 45acp's, looked around on the computer and couldn't find any pictures of them. Probably erased them when cleaning out old files.

Anyway I used a forster hp tool to make the hp large enough to accept the airsoft bb. I took a 15/64th drill bit and cut it down and turned the shaft of the drill bit to 3/16th's to fit in the forster case trimmer.

It was nothing more than setting the stop to drill deep enough to have the bb sit proud enough so that the round/radius of the bb protruded from the hp with 1/3+ of the bb sticking up. I glued them in place with super glue.

Doing this is a lot easier than heating/shaping the bb. Plus there's no deformation of the bullet.

Never thought of using a metal .177" bb. A 3/16th center drill (.1875") in the forster case trimmer would make a hole large enough to easily fit a .177" metal bb. I use the 60* center drill to make hp's in bullets all the time.

[Forrest r]

Couldn't find any pictures of the glow in the dark bb's in the cast bullets. I do have this picture of them in jacketed bullets swaged from 40s&w cases for the 45acp.
[IMG][/IMG]

What I found odd with those bullets pictured above is when you hit steel with them. The recovered jacketed were flat looking like spiders with too many legs. And the airsoft bb was flattened and going into the flash hole of the primer pocket.