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Thread: Gas Check seating

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    Your method is working for you so if happy with that method go for it......results are what counts.

    Just another suggestion though; given the Aluminum GCs are most likely slip ons you might simply start the GC on and push the bullet through your Lee sizer GC first. I do that with various bullets when using a lot of tight fitting slip on GCs, my own and old Lyman's.
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy Dapaki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dimaprok View Post
    You guys are very creative but what you really need is proper fitting gas check and lee sizer. No extra seating step required.

    https://youtu.be/j0dXDFuGPrY

    Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
    I would have to say that there is often more to it than that.

    Lyman, Gator, even the aluminum GC on my 7mm boolits "wash" the GC material down when sized through the LEE sizer no matter how well the GC fits. The sizer is polished and sizes correctly but I do have to size the boolits base first to keep the material from washing.

    I believe it is the tapered heel of the LEE boolit that causes this and not the GC or die.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dapaki View Post
    I would have to say that there is often more to it than that.

    Lyman, Gator, even the aluminum GC on my 7mm boolits "wash" the GC material down when sized through the LEE sizer no matter how well the GC fits. The sizer is polished and sizes correctly but I do have to size the boolits base first to keep the material from washing.

    I believe it is the tapered heel of the LEE boolit that causes this and not the GC or die.
    I have to agree. The Lee shank on my 324-175-1R was so frustrating to work with. I finally gave up and drilled out the shank and made it a plain base mold (Thanks Ben for the tutorial thread on shank removal). Where as, I have a Lyman 323470 that is a dream to work with.

    I size and install a gas check on these bullets in one step. I size from as cast to .318”. So they are being sized down .006” to .008” in one sizing. I’m asking a lot by sizing them down this much. The 323470 will size down just fine when cast out of air cooled #2 alloy. The checks start to wash off the shanks of this bullet if the #2 alloy is water dropped, it is just too hard(I bent the handle on my classic cast press sizing these water dropped bullets).

    The tapered shank on the Lee bullet would smear off a check even with softer alloys, like 50/50 lead and WW with 2% tin. I also tried to seat and size in two steps with the Lee bullet, .323” and then .318”, they still failed. I think that the shank in too large on the Lee bullet and the taper doesn’t help anything.

    I had not started to press on checks when I was fiddling with the Lee mold. I might have been able to make that mold/bullet work if I had pressed them on first. I started to use my seating stem press method on another bullet that has a large shank, that was made by NOE. The NOE shank is large but it has parallel sides and if the check is pressed on first it will pass through the Lee sizer just fine. This NOE is also a 8mm bullet that I size down to .318”.

    Did I have to get creative? Yes, I did. Did it work? Yes it did!

    JM

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Gibson View Post
    Your method is working for you so if happy with that method go for it......results are what counts.

    Just another suggestion though; given the Aluminum GCs are most likely slip ons you might simply start the GC on and push the bullet through your Lee sizer GC first. I do that with various bullets when using a lot of tight fitting slip on GCs, my own and old Lyman's.
    Larry,
    I have tried the upside down method. I ended up with bent bullets. I just couldn’t get a long round nosed bullet to start straight enough in the die. They ended up looking like bananas.

    JM

  5. #25
    Boolit Master

    avogunner's Avatar
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    I use a Lyman 450 to seat my checks and have no problem for all my 30 cal rifle molds but ... I have a Lyman 358156 that drops beautiful boolits at .360-361 but because of that, the gas check shank is almost too big for the Hornady checks I use. Very difficult to get them started on the boolit and a good number would even shave lead from the boolit when seating. What I needed was a way to flare out the checks to ease the seating and in a thread on this good forum, someone mentioned such a tool offered by NOE. It fixed me right up so keep it in mind if you encounter a similar situation with any of your molds.
    Semper Fi.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    I have a Lee 309-180R that the heels are a bit large on. I do them nose first and once I meet resistance I give the base a small rap with the press lever and then push it through. I have closely inspected the seated and sized checks and not found any cockeyed. I do have a Lyman 467 top punch coming along with a NOE seating gizmo but the rap method seems to have worked in the mean time.
    Last edited by Cosmic_Charlie; 05-20-2020 at 10:48 AM.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    I have read on here that a guy was using a steel ball bearing to flare checks for a fat shank boolit he loaded. I make my own checks and for my 1 fat shank I use slightly thinner aluminum. I also anneal the aluminum strips before making the disks for the checks. I seat using Lee push-through dies by pushing the boolit onto the check before putting into the die. Using light pressure with the ram the check 'trues' itself before pushing the boolit all the way through the die. Annealing really improved this process.
    Common sense Gun Safety . . .

    Is taught at the Range!

  8. #28
    Boolit Mold
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    I use the RCBS Lube / Sizer and Hornady gas checks with Accurate molds / bullets and the checks usually snap on. However, I saw that if I ran the bullet into the die base down, 10% of the gas checks would be crimped on crooked. I thought that was weird. To solve this, I took the lube pressure off of the resizer and ran the bullets into the die nose down to crimp the checks. That works but created an extra step as the bullets had to be run again base down to be lubed, but it saved buying the NOE seater.

    For the Newbies that don't know, you can put a finished bullet into your calipers base down and hold it up to the light and if you have a crooked check, it will be revealed.

  9. #29
    Boolit Buddy dimaprok's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NMBill View Post
    I use the RCBS Lube / Sizer and Hornady gas checks with Accurate molds / bullets and the checks usually snap on. However, I saw that if I ran the bullet into the die base down, 10% of the gas checks would be crimped on crooked. I thought that was weird. To solve this, I took the lube pressure off of the resizer and ran the bullets into the die nose down to crimp the checks. That works but created an extra step as the bullets had to be run again base down to be lubed, but it saved buying the NOE seater.

    For the Newbies that don't know, you can put a finished bullet into your calipers base down and hold it up to the light and if you have a crooked check, it will be revealed.
    Might be easier to run through lee push through sizer first, they are inexpensive and if you if you get a cheapy lee press and invert it it's a lot easier too not having to line up the bullet on the push through rod and while you're at it, you can ditch the star luber and powder coat

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check