Rolling Block Rifle - Rare or BUBBA ??

[Yellowhouse]

And MM strikes first.....again!

[marlinman93]

And MM strikes first.....again!

Strike while the fire is hot. I was afraid someone else might beat me to it!!

[skeettx]

Watching with great interest.
How is the ammo coming?
Mike

[RustyReel]

Strike while the fire is hot. I was afraid someone else might beat me to it!!

I KNEW I should have went with my gut and bought this thing!! I have four 12.7mm's and one had just arrived a few days before this rifle was posted. I mean, who needs five!! Anyway, I guess we have decided it is not a Bubba job and was done either commercially or professionally. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

As far as brass. If you are going to use 50/70, try it before altering the case. One of my rifles has either been rechambered or is sloppy enough that 50/70 unaltered works fine. If you have to buy brass then consider the 50 Alaskan. I traded for a few cases on this forum and that was the easiest to convert, just trim to length.

Really lookin' forward to those after pics.....have I said that already??

[Wolfer]

I too have good luck with 50 Alaskan brass. Trim to length, size/load on 50-70 dies and shoot.

[marlinman93]

I KNEW I should have went with my gut and bought this thing!! I have four 12.7mm's and one had just arrived a few days before this rifle was posted. I mean, who needs five!! Anyway, I guess we have decided it is not a Bubba job and was done either commercially or professionally. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

As far as brass. If you are going to use 50/70, try it before altering the case. One of my rifles has either been rechambered or is sloppy enough that 50/70 unaltered works fine. If you have to buy brass then consider the 50 Alaskan. I traded for a few cases on this forum and that was the easiest to convert, just trim to length.

Really lookin' forward to those after pics.....have I said that already??

Not much to see beyond the pics I already posted. Since it looks basically the same as the original pics I didn't take more after reassembling it. I still have to do that one filler piece on the right side of the stock where it meets the receiver, but haven't whittled out a filler yet to epoxy in there.

I'll likely use .50-70 just based on cost. My time is free, and it's pretty quick to turn down rims and base diameter in my lathe once I've set the first case up. Unfortunately I was set up for the .5070 Govt. when I had my Ballard #4 Perfection in .50-70. But I sold it to a friend and didn't think I'd ever get back into another, as it's not a cartridge I was enamored with. So now I need to order dies again, and brass. I do have bullets, and a mold, so that part is OK.

Based on the Sporting hammer and breech block, I believe this gun was never a military, and not a rework. It appears to be the same parts used on Husqvarna Sporting Shotguns, and my guess is it was made after 1871 when Husqvarna began offering shotguns based on the military actions, but purpose built as shotguns. Since there are no dates, or other stampings on the action, and the action measures full width still, the marks were not polished off. Indicating a action that was always a Sporting Rifle.

[JoeJames]

In praise of this thread. I subscribe to a number of gun magazines, but this thread has been much more interesting than anything I’ve read lately. The suspense about the breech, pictures of the RB, details of the repairs, cartridge discussion all quite engrossing. Thanks.

[Scrounge]

Tough to buy a complete Rolling Block of any kind under $300. I sure wouldn't call it too rich. If anything I'd call it too cheap.

I said "too rich for my blood." I'm in the middle of a bunch of other projects, and added another yesterday, which will help me in the long run, but ate what I might have spent on the rifle. I bought a mini-mill and a bunch of (looks like mostly carbide) end mills. $412, total. I'm also a cheap bastrich. New, that mill is $600, and the carbide end mills can run upwards of $50 each. I did look at ready-to-shoot RRBs, and upwards of a grand isn't uncommon. I didn't have that much, and need to keep some $$ around in case I find another good deal that I can't pass up. All my gunsmithing experience is decades ago, too, so starting something that could have easily outstripped my skills wasn't a good choice. OP seems to have gotten himself a package that fits what he wants and what he can do. It works better this way. I could have called the seller, but didn't. He deserves a great deal! And I can follow his adventures vicariously while I'm working on my own!

[marlinman93]

OP seems to have gotten himself a package that fits what he wants and what he can do. It works better this way. I could have called the seller, but didn't. He deserves a great deal! And I can follow his adventures vicariously while I'm working on my own!

OP didn't buy it. I bought it.

[Scrounge]

OP can mean either Original Poster or Other Poster. If you're the one who got It, you're also the LP. Lucky Poster! Hope you have a lot of fun with it, and share some of that fun! I may be using my mill on a couple of Stevens, one a CrackShot & one a Take-down, both .32 caliber, but one long & one short. Don't have as much $$ in them as you do in yours, but hope to learn stuff and have fun, too.

[FLINTNFIRE]

I ran into one in local gun store a few months ago , was marked 43 spanish , rifling crisp , patina on the outside , I have always admired them but would have had to have got dies , brass and all , I passed as I had work to go do , came back by and it was sold it was only marked at around $300 .

[Scrounge]

I ran into one in local gun store a few months ago , was marked 43 spanish , rifling crisp , patina on the outside , I have always admired them but would have had to have got dies , brass and all , I passed as I had work to go do , came back by and it was sold it was only marked at around $300 .

I could have been tempted beyond my ability to resist in that circumstance, if I were actually able to touch it. Much easier to resist when I can't lay hands on it immediately. I'm weak. I admit it.

[marlinman93]

I found a Carl Gustav military Roller at a pawn shop a couple years ago for $200. A beautiful example in about 85-90% original condition. Even had very good case colors still. Only issue was the breech block spur was snapped off! But at the price it was not one to pass up. So I bought it, and began repairing it.
I made up a spur from some scrap steel and rough shaped it. Then took it to a guy I use for tig welding, and he welded the spur on for $10. Got it back home and finished polishing and shaping the spur. Then got out my thread file and checkered the spur. Blued up the breech block and it looked like it had never been broken.
That one was a 12.17x44R which I prefer as they are easily made from shortened .45-70 cases. I gave it to my son in law since I'm not a military rifle fan, and it was too nice to break down to use the action for a build. If I'd have kept it I know that's what would have happened, so better to get it away from me.
edit-Should read 11.7 Danish Remington, not 12.17x44R.

[pietro]

.

Like Clint said, Vaal - "A man's gotsta know his limitations" ! ! (I had those same issues)


.

[17nut]

I found a Carl Gustav military Roller at a pawn shop a couple years ago for $200. A beautiful example in about 85-90% original condition. Even had very good case colors still. Only issue was the breech block spur was snapped off! But at the price it was not one to pass up. So I bought it, and began repairing it.
I made up a spur from some scrap steel and rough shaped it. Then took it to a guy I use for tig welding, and he welded the spur on for $10. Got it back home and finished polishing and shaping the spur. Then got out my thread file and checkered the spur. Blued up the breech block and it looked like it had never been broken.
That one was a 12.17x44R which I prefer as they are easily made from shortened .45-70 cases. I gave it to my son in law since I'm not a military rifle fan, and it was too nice to break down to use the action for a build. If I'd have kept it I know that's what would have happened, so better to get it away from me.

NO!

45-70 for the Danish Rem (kinda 45-60) but .348 Win or the like for the Swede/Norwegian.

[RustyReel]

I think he meant 50/70. MM seems to have worked with a rolling block or two so probably just a typo. But thanks for pointing it out for those who may not be aware.

[marlinman93]

NO!

45-70 for the Danish Rem (kinda 45-60) but .348 Win or the like for the Swede/Norwegian.

Yes, my mistake. Bad memory. It is the 11.7 Danish that I used .45-70 cases to build ammo for, not the 12.17 which is a larger rim and base.

[marlinman93]

Finally got some cool rainy weather which makes me want to do indoor projects. Too cool to be out in my garage working on my '39 Chev coupe!
So I had the cracks repaired, and the chip of missing wood epoxied in, but didn't get things shaped and finished until now. The cracks didn't need anything since they were tight, so just glued and clamped. The chip at the wrist got a filler piece glued in, and shaped down. Then sanded, stained to match, and some Wipe On Poly to just the repaired area. They came out nicely, and blended well.





The sporting style buttplate.




Enough repairs, as I don't want a restored gun, and this still retains it's originality.

[ndnchf]

Looks great

[marlinman93]

Looks great

Thanks!