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Thread: M1 Carbine Help

  1. #21
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabezaverde View Post
    I don't want to screw around with having to turn anything on.
    Ultimak with an Aimpoint Pro.

    Battery life for that optic is ~3 years on setting 7. Just leave it on all the time and replace the battery on New Years day or whatever. Done.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master

    FLINTNFIRE's Avatar
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    Comp m4s battery life in power on is measured in years takes a regular double a I believe , or buy one of the motion activated , like the sig sauer romeo 7 uses a regular battery again and has motion awake shuts off in 2 minutes pick it up its ready to go , Sorry no idea why your rifle is so far off , had a remington bolt action 22 that was same way bored on a angle .

  3. #23
    Boolit Master


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    A Mepro 2000 is tritium powered and has no batteries, they run able $500 and are made by Meprolight!

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Part of the regulations regarding the installation of the rear sight on an M`1 carbine require that the sight must take 2000 pounds of force to move the sight itself. So how did they do this?. By basically useing something like a big centerpunch to create divots on either side of the dovetail to basically lock the sight in place. Whoever installed the sight on my Saginaw Steering gear carbine must have taken this as gospell. I have 4 divots two on each side of the sight body. So you really have to be careful when trying to move the rear sight on a carbine. I actually had to buy a set of diamond files and remove metal from the underside of the dovetail to get the busted rear sight out and a new one installed.If the divots are small should be no problem to try and shift the rear sight. If they are large you may have to remove some metal on the underside of the dovetail. brute force isn't going to work here because you could damage or crack the metal in the dovetail. Frank

  5. #25
    Boolit Master
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    This is more than likely a barrel timing issue. ie the barrel is too tight or not tight enough in the receiver. ON a short barrel carbine it does not take much to be off due to the short sight radius. not a hard problem to fix but requires re correct action wrench and barrel vise bushing and timing gauges to fix. If you just have the wrenches you can estimate it by inching it a hair either direction to center it up.
    FYI Ive fixed this issue on plenty of USGI guns as well. Soldiers rebarreling these things didn't pay that much attention to them, lol.
    NRA High Master XTC
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  6. #26
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    Texas by God's Avatar
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    A .300" diameter brass rod about a foot long will serve to check barrel straightness.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  7. #27
    Boolit Master 35 Whelen's Avatar
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    cabezaverde, I ran into this very problem with an Iver Johnson M1 Carbine. If you want to see how I fixed it, here's the link to the thread.

    35W
    The biggest waste of time is arguing with the fool and fanatic who doesn't care about truth or reality, but only the victory of his beliefs and illusions.
    There are people who, for all the evidence presented to them, do not have the ability to understand.

    NRA Life Member

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Another thing to check out is wether or not the rifling at the muzzle end is good as the carbine could only be cleaned from the muzzle end. Good old steel cleaning rods as issued by Uncle Sam. Frank

  9. #29
    Boolit Man
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    I had a friend who worked at a plant that made M-1's during the war. He said that they test fired a gun, if it was way off, "we just put it in a vise and bent the barrel a little". Sounds archaic, but I guess when you're in a hurry to get them into troops hands in the most expedient way, you just do what needs done to get it out the door.

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cabezaverde View Post

    The iron sights are way off when adjusted to correct point of impact. So much so that the rear sight is so far left that it screws up the sight picture.

    I have thought about putting a Bushnell TRS red dot on it using one of the mounts that replaces the rear sight. The thing I don't like about that is having to remember to turn it on in the event of an emergency.

    I have also thought about a low powered scope, I have a Leupold 2x sitting around looking for a job.

    Thoughts?
    A small grinder (used for sharpening chainsaws) in a Dremel will fit down inside the rear sight to the left and right of the aperture (cranked to the left or right) to grind away a bit of the riveted part of the receiver staking the rear sight in place. The rear sight base can then be drifted to the left a bit to "zero" with the aperture centered in the base. With the amount of rear sight base drift established and confirmed by shooting then with a center punch re-stake the receiver into the rear base notches.

    The scope base that replaces the rear sight puts the scope/Dot sight to high for quick use. After numerous different scope bases mounted on the receiver I went with the forward base that replaces the handguard as has Rgmcfarland. I've found it to be excellent, especially with a low powered "scout" or pistol scope.....extremely fast and accurate to use with both eyes open.

    As to scopes and electronic dot sights. The M1 carbine, as with other gas guns, can be very hard on them....especially the less expensive ones. Many such inexpensive scopes and Red Dot sights are not made to take recoil or vibration in both directions. Gas guns like the m1 Carbine recoil in both directions (the bolt going back forward give recoil in the opposite direction) much like springer air rifles. Unless made for such recoil and vibrations scopes and Red Dot sights easily rattle apart internally. I have several less expensive such sight as a testament to my learning this the hard way. I suggest either a scope or Dot Sight made to handle such. I have found Burris and Leupold scout and handgun scope hold up. I have a Burris 2X handguns scope on my M1 Carbine and it has held up for several years and thousands of round. The smaller Red Dots made for use mounted on semi-auto handgun slides also hold up. I prefer the Burris Fast Fire IIs but use the scope on the M1 Carbine as the optic blocks the issue sights so I don't want to have to turn a sight on if needed quickly. The scope is always "there" when needed. Alsi with the scope use rings that get it mounted as low as possible over the receiver front.

    M1 carbines are excellent carbines for plinking with cast bullets and for PD with good SP or HP bullets. With such your wife should be happy with it. My wife thinks my shooter M1 carbine is hers.....

    Attachment 265526
    Larry Gibson

    “Deficient observation is merely a form of ignorance and responsible for the many morbid notions and foolish ideas prevailing.”
    ― Nikola Tesla

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
    cabezaverde's Avatar
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    Here is an update to this:

    I found a local smith that knows what he is doing. It turns out the barrel was not bent and it was clocked correctly.

    The slot for the front sight was cut to the 11:00 side, and he recut the slot and all is well now.

    Thanks to all for your help and suggestions.
    Founder of the Single Shot section.

    A government big enough to give you everything you want is big enough to take everything you have.


    8 in the 10 ring, then I get a PING. Love my Garand.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master 35 Whelen's Avatar
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    I hope this fixed it! Have you fired it yet?

    Unless my thinking is flawed (which is entirely possible) , my concern is this- Your front sight would have to be offset the same distance as the rear was when you got POI centered. Hope that makes sense.

    35W
    The biggest waste of time is arguing with the fool and fanatic who doesn't care about truth or reality, but only the victory of his beliefs and illusions.
    There are people who, for all the evidence presented to them, do not have the ability to understand.

    NRA Life Member

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check