Should I get it restored?

[Kev18]

I decided on the plumb brown. Hopefully it turns out nice. Im happy with how it looks now. Might be ridiculous to you guys but I like it I need to place my order for the Plumb brown, I found some in Canada.

[sharps4590]

Doesn't Birchwood Casey's Plumb Brown require heating the metal to the point water sizzles? It's been a long time since I used it on ML barrels but, that's what my head is remembering. I also want to remember that I went to 600 grit, wet or dry on those barrels and other metal parts. They browned up good and after 35-40 years they still look pretty darn good for all the use they've had. None are splotchy and only thinning on the edges. Took several applications too, provided I'm remembering correctly.

[flounderman]

The Mark Lee quick rust blueing is the easiest, fastest, and gets the best results of anything I have used. I found heating the metal with a heat gun and applying the blue worked best

[OutHuntn84]

Beautiful gun love the character

[Kev18]

The Mark Lee quick rust blueing is the easiest, fastest, and gets the best results of anything I have used. I found heating the metal with a heat gun and applying the blue worked best

Thats exactly the one I ordered. They didn't have Birchwood in stock so I got that one. They say to heat up the metal with a blow torch and apply. Then wipe off and repeat process.

[RKJ]

Is it better then birchwood?

in my experience it is. It gave a pitted S&W 28 a deep black color and the same for a Colt 1911 Officers I have. I've tried (years ago) the liquid blue from Birchwood Casey and was not impressed. The Oxpho blue is around twice the $$ over the BC stuff though (but worth it).

I just saw you ordered some blueing, let us see some pics afterward. It sounds like a good product.

[Kev18]

in my experience it is. It gave a pitted S&W 28 a deep black color and the same for a Colt 1911 Officers I have. I've tried (years ago) the liquid blue from Birchwood Casey and was not impressed. The Oxpho blue is around twice the $$ over the BC stuff though (but worth it).

I just saw you ordered some blueing, let us see some pics afterward. It sounds like a good product.

Il try to follow the instructions as best I can.
I find Casey's blue works alot better the more you heat the metal. I tried it on my barrel cold like the instructions say, and it rubs off with a cloth or just fingers. I took a torch until it starts smoking alitle and it help up a dark black.

[Kev18]

Does anyone have any pictures of the browning solution on the receiver? I would like to see what it would look like.
Does it stay plumb brown or go black depending on the layers?

[indian joe]

Im conflicted. I dont mind how it looks now, its just that maybe restoring the wood and abit of work on the metal? I don't know. That's why I asked. I would like to pass this rifle on someday or atleast keep it til I die. It would be nice to have it in decent quality/shape.

Kev
That reciever has marks like it was rough cleaned with a disc sander - if you spend time on it BY HAND with new emery paper you be amazed how much better you can make it look - 240 or 320 grit at the start and just go slow in the long direction - you will get all the sander marks out and a lot of the rust pits. Leave the screws in the action or make and fit dummy ones so you dont round the edges of the screw holes too much - maybe keep your eye on the adds and get a replacement hammer if one shows up. Its a decent shooter but antique value is already gone with those sander marks - you enjoy this gun - give it some tlc - test your sanding technique on the bottom of the action between lever and forend, if you get tired of it nobody will notice that piece.

[sigep1764]

Do it. Have it restored. I have a 1917 manufactured 1890 Winchester in 22WRF that was bought by my great grandfather and was my grandpas first rifle. It will never leave my family. I had it completely restored, I did the wood and a local gunsmith handled the metal. It does get shot from time to time and is preserved for my unborn children to enjoy in the future. I didn't care about the value, just that it will exist without deteriorating.

[Kev18]

Do it. Have it restored. I have a 1917 manufactured 1890 Winchester in 22WRF that was bought by my great grandfather and was my grandpas first rifle. It will never leave my family. I had it completely restored, I did the wood and a local gunsmith handled the metal. It does get shot from time to time and is preserved for my unborn children to enjoy in the future. I didn't care about the value, just that it will exist without deteriorating.

Im doing it myself. I know what I want so it will be easier. I ordered some plumb brown for the receiver.

[W.R.Buchanan]

KEV: go to Turnbull's website and there is a new 5 part series on prepping your gun for finishing.

https://www.turnbullrestoration.com/...eid=0840bc4c07

It shows you how to polish the gun so you don't screw it up and it ain't that hard.

Do this Before you go any farther! you can bring that gun right back to really nice by just following the instructions!

Randy

[LAGS]

I have recently been doing Browning on some of my ML's , but can't post pictures .
The Browning will come out a little darker than natural Patina when you first finish it.
It may lighten up a little bit over time and wear.
That is what some of mine have done that I browned years ago.
But one thing I noticed is , The Browning does seem to show any defects in the metal like rust pits and scratches more than Slow rust blue does.
But in your situation , I would go with the Brown over the bluing.
If you polish out the Sanding Scratches like Indian Joe said , what pits that do show will just keep the history of the gun alive.
But the Browning will add life to the gun by adding a layer of protection so you won't end up with more pitting.
I take it that you use this rifle as a Hunter and not just a display piece ?
Like others have said , the Collectors Value is Nill.
But I can see you can get many more years of service out of this gun without trying to bring it back to Perfect.

[ascast]

Birchwood Casey Plum Brown
heat the metal and apply with a cotton ball.
Instructions on the bottle.

Probably the easiest finish to do.

Case Hardening
Mix scraps of leather, bone and charcoal in heavy metal box. Bury receiver in mixture and seal the box.
Place in coals of a hot fire for a few hours then remove and dump contents in cold water.

If you do the case hardening read all you can about it before attempting it.
I personally have never as yet done it, but know the basics from reading about it.

that's truly hilarious - I think it's a little more involved than this - do not do this

[LAGS]

Many years ago , I watched my Grandfather ( who was a Gunsmith ) do color case hardening.
There was much more involved than you see on YouTube.
Warping of parts was one of the factors people don't consider.
It is something to this day , I will leave to the Professionals because you are talking about temperatures around 1500 degrees.
And if not done right , you end up with a Soft Receiver , or one that is too hard and brittle.
Plus , doing something like case hardening will be so expensive , it wouldn't be worth it except on a Brand New rifle.

[koger]

If you have all the metal bead blasted, and have it hot blued, it will look good. Matte finishing covers up a ton of pits. I believe you need to do something, to stop the ongoing rust that will only get worse with time. Just my opinon from 36+ years of gunsmithing. I have blued hundreds of guns, and a lot of folks, who have a favorite, in the shape of yours, have really like the matte finish bluing. It also, helps protect from rust in the future in 2 ways. When you bead blast, you will remove nearly all the rust from the pits already there, and bluing over them will stop the rust. Also, a matte, textured finish, holds oil/grease better, and prevents rust, somewhat better. I have taken, to cleaning all my guns, inside and out with hopes #9, drying them off, and putting a thin coat of Rig firearm grease on all outside surfaces, I have found no better protectant.

[LAGS]

I second the bead blasting to remove all the rust down in the pits.
But I didn't suggest it because the OP was doing the work himself and didn't mention having a bead blaster or access to one.
But I do bead blast all metal that I am going to Reblue.
Even the ones that will get a Finer polish before bluing.
The bead blasting hides a lot of defects.
But it can also provide you with an even Matt Finish to start your polishing.
But I do like the Bead Blasted , Matt finish for both Rust Bluing and Browning.
I also do Sand Blast metal for a Deeper Matt Finish on some rifles.

[Kev18]

I have recently been doing Browning on some of my ML's , but can't post pictures .
The Browning will come out a little darker than natural Patina when you first finish it.
It may lighten up a little bit over time and wear.
That is what some of mine have done that I browned years ago.
But one thing I noticed is , The Browning does seem to show any defects in the metal like rust pits and scratches more than Slow rust blue does.
But in your situation , I would go with the Brown over the bluing.
If you polish out the Sanding Scratches like Indian Joe said , what pits that do show will just keep the history of the gun alive.
But the Browning will add life to the gun by adding a layer of protection so you won't end up with more pitting.
I take it that you use this rifle as a Hunter and not just a display piece ?
Like others have said , the Collectors Value is Nill.
But I can see you can get many more years of service out of this gun without trying to bring it back to Perfect.

I use the gun quite often. I dont have any display pieces. All shooters. Hopefully the brown will come out nice, does it remove abit of the scratches from the polishing? I imagine ti does since it rusts and you need to rub it off.
Also, what did you sue to clean the rust off inbetween layers? I dont have a carding wheel.

[LAGS]

With Browning that I do with BC plumb brown you do not have to Card Off like you do with slow Rust Bluing.
Most Browning is Minimal Rusting , and can be cleaned up with Water , Steel Wool or Acetone.
Since Browning has minimal Rusting , it will not etch away any of the polishing scratches like Slow Rusting and Carding will.
I slow rust a lot of barrels , and have never one a Carding Wheel.
I do have a Hand Held Carding Brush or two.
But I mostly use steel wool that has been De Greased in Acetone to card off the metal.

[Kev18]

With Browning that I do with BC plumb brown you do not have to Card Off like you do with slow Rust Bluing.
Most Browning is Minimal Rusting , and can be cleaned up with Water , Steel Wool or Acetone.
Since Browning has minimal Rusting , it will not etch away any of the polishing scratches like Slow Rusting and Carding will.
I slow rust a lot of barrels , and have never one a Carding Wheel.
I do have a Hand Held Carding Brush or two.
But I mostly use steel wool that has been De Greased in Acetone to card off the metal.

So I should buff out the receiver more? I used 320 grit and there is visual scratches.