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Thread: stuck bullet- good and proper this time

  1. #21
    Boolit Master

    FLINTNFIRE's Avatar
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    I do not see bulging a barrel with a rod , lead is still softer then steel , with a slug stuck and then another round fired I can see bulging , and btw I had a rifle 264 win mag a ex brother in law shot a 308 win. fmj out of and stuck the slug , I gave the rifle years later to a guy and he drove the bullet out still has it in his gun shop and he said the rifle would still drive tacks .
    Last edited by FLINTNFIRE; 04-21-2020 at 12:42 AM. Reason: spelling

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Dunno how many drill outs Ive seen go horribly wrong ,same as drive outs that gouge the barrel when the rod goes astray...Which is why I think blackpowder is the least likely to cause problems,with careful heat the next best.Heat may carbonize the paper before the lead melts ,and release the bullet.The comment on paper is good too......machinists often use paper between a workpiece and a machine table to increase the holding power of clamping screws,especially on big planers ,where there is a tendency for the work to be pushed along the bed ,even with stops.

  3. #23
    Boolit Buddy
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    If it were mine, I'd just melt the thing out and be done with it. About the only thing that might be hurt is the bluing.....maybe never notice it on a Mosin. Clean the bore good after.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    You could melt it out but be careful not to heat more than necessary. Difference in a sight and a stuck bullet is how much of the barrel you need to heat. You do not want to see too drastic a colour change in the barrel. I have done this but only with air rifles.
    As mentioned you can also drill out within a tube to safe guard the barrel. Never tried but it will work. By drilling out enough of the centre the bullet collapse a little under pressure from the barrel. I would suggest only have maybe 3/4 (start lower, you can always drill deeper but once you are too far!) the bearing surface of the drill protruding to minimise the chances of it damaging the barrel and maybe no bigger than 3/16" -1/4".

    Suggest DO NOT use a case load of Black Powder. What can happen is the powder at the back can force the powder at the front along like a projectile which then slams into the stuck bullet or should I say obstruction.
    Basically you have the equivalent of huge case capacity and an itsy bitsy load.

    There may be other options but I have no experience with these nor know anyone who has.
    1. First just heat the barrel thoroughly but not high and then cool it quickly. In theory the barrel would contract faster than the bullet effectively squashing the bullet slightly.
    2. If you have a tight case that will seal the back end but still extract then fill the rear of the barrel with liquid and seal with the aforementioned case and close the bolt. Heat the barrel. The liquid should expand pushing along the bullet long before the case expands but as you can guess the case needs to be a good seal as does the bullet for this to work.

    Good luck and keep us posted
    Last edited by LawrenceA; 04-14-2020 at 04:01 AM.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master BigEyeBob's Avatar
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    Brass disc close to bore diameter ,dropped down onto obstruction ,brass rod close to bore diameter as close as possible , muzzle on a piece of hard wood on a concrete floor ,a good sized hammer and drive it out . Done it this way quite a few times with jwords and cast lead works and will not damage the barrel or bore.Forget trying to blast it out with black powder ,its dangerous and will damage your barrel.

  6. #26
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    Drill it out ...easy peasy. If you can't figure out how to do it PM me.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Grease. As in, hydraulic pressure.

    https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...bullet+removal
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  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy andrew375's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies. The bullet is cast, a Lee 309-200 wrapped with 2 turns of .004 greaseproof paper and sized to. 315" . Barrel is. 3145".

    I am loath to try drilling it out as if something goes wrong and the drill jams I've just made the problem much worse. If I had facilities to braze a drill on to a rod then I would contemplate it. I think the best bet is going to be melting it out. I am not concerned about damaging the steel as the melting point of the bullet is considerably below the lower critical limit of steel. They actually use molten lead baths for tempering high carbon steel tools like cold chisels. Also, barrels for double shotguns and rifles are joined with soft solder which has about the same melting point as the alloy I used to cast the bullet from. I've just got to find a blowtorch I can borrow for the job, I doubt that one of those diy plumbing blowtorchs will put out enough heat to do the job.

    The frustrating thing is that this time last year I had access to foundry facilities so melting the bullet out or making an extra long drill would have been a doodle.

    I'll report back on how I get on.
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  9. #29
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    A common propane torch will probably work fine as that Russian Barrel is not particularly thick. I would put a wet pack on the rear sight for protection of that solder joint. Good luck!

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    Lead is soft enough that you can probably make a drill out of anything. I would first try to buy a long drill and as mentioned multiple times above, wrap it with tape or brass tube from the hardware store. You don't need a huge hole, just enough to relieve the pressure. Maybe 1/2 the bore diameter? Think of it as "unswaging". As long as the bit is guided, you should be safe.

    You could buy music wire and fashion a drill that would stand up to a 5/8 deep hole in lead. Brass like a brazing rod might even work for drilling lead.

    The advice on the lead bulging the bore is spot on.

  11. #31
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I see little downside to drilling it out with the drill encased in a metal tube. I have some long 1/4" drill bits but even drill rod with a "D" profile reamer would get it done. Round the end of the rod and grind half of it off, as you would for a reamer. Use hand power and go slow. Good advice to clear chips often and use a lubricant. 1/4" drill rod 36" long is less than $10

    Worst case, if the drill gets stuck melt out the bullet.
    Don Verna


  12. #32
    Boolit Master Clark's Avatar
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    The late gunsmith Randy Ketchum told me about this and it worked for me.
    Put oil in the barrel. Hammer the oil with a brass rod and a hammer. Try to get all the air out [air acts like a spring].

  13. #33
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    Many years ago my uncle got a 22 LR stuck in the barrel of a bolt action rifle. He took the eyes off a metal fishing rod, heated it up red hot with a propane torch and burned it out....

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    An old muzzle loader trick, push it with a grease gun. Couple long pipe clamps and make a plate for muzzle with a partial drilled hole to fit over muzzle, drilled center for grease zerk. Material through action and clamp both sides, use grease gun and push obstruction back into chamber.

  15. #35
    Boolit Mold
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    A stout punch, brass drift or hardwood dowel patched tight to the bore, fill bore with oil to about 1/2 inch from crown, tap till tight on the fluid then a sharp whack with a 4 lb sledge, rinse repeat as necessary if it doesn’t loosen up enough to push out with a rod, just refill to neW level, repatch tight and whack. I’ve not whacked a crown but you could. Might want to put a hose washer or something around the dowel to protect it. You want a solid get er done whack, not a bunch of light taps.

  16. #36
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    Gnostic- I just found a steel fishing pole like you mention. This is flat spring steel and seriously headed for Crappie and Perch early summer. Oh yeah, Andrew375...... how’d it go? I’d melt that bullet out in 5 minutes and not molest the Moisten Nugget a bit��

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy
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    Here’s an approximately 30 minute video of a gentleman “shooting” stuck bullets out of several firearms with absolutely no damage to the guns

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6SiW1Tk0XV8

    At approximately the 18 minute mark he purposely “sticks” a jacketed bullet in a Winchester Model 94 and shoots it out using a water filled bore and a blank cartridge loaded with trail boss.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    Gnostic- I just found a steel fishing pole like you mention. This is flat spring steel and seriously headed for Crappie and Perch early summer. Oh yeah, Andrew375...... how’d it go? I’d melt that bullet out in 5 minutes and not molest the Moisten Nugget a bit��
    I grew up on Lake Erie and we'd catch trash cans full of Perch. I haven't seen a steel casting rod for years....

  19. #39
    Boolit Master



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    Use a bullet Puller for a muzzle loader. If you can't pull it, you can drill a hole in it with the puller.!
    Good luck!

  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Texas by God View Post
    Strip it down to the barreled receiver. Put a piece of stout wood(2x12) on the garage floor, driveway- a hard surface. Using oven mitts or leather gloves, heat the barrel adjacent to the stuck bullet with a propane torch until lead starts dripping out. Now bounce the muzzle end on the board until all the lead is out. Once it's cool, clean the bore and reassemble. You can sometimes restore old "shot out" .22 rim fires this way too.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Can't be stuck if it's liquid!!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check