stuck bullet- good and proper this time

[andrew375]

I was playing with paper patched bullets in my mosin and managed to seriously under load a round. The bullet stopped about halfway up the barrel and won't shift. I've wrecked one cleaning rod hammering with a 2lb. hammer, from both directions, and it hasn't budged at all. I've had it soaking in Ed's red for a month and gave it one final try with the hammer and rod, but no deal.

I've also tried firing a case loaded with just a charge of powder, as in Hatcher's notebook, but without a bullet the primer just fired the powder into the bore without igniting it.

So suggestions? I do not have access to any workshop facilities or equipment like a hydraulic press. I cannot remove the barrel from the action. I've seen the idea of a case full of black powder, but will I get the same issue of the powder being shot up the barrel without igniting?

[JoeJames]

Cast or jacketed?

[Wayne Smith]

BP is an explosive, it will ignite without pressure. He implied paper patched. Does acetone dissolve oil soaked paper?

[Drm50]

Sounds like you have got the bullet turned into a rivet from cleaning rod/ hammer job. Any rod smaller than bore is going to tighten bullet in bore if it doesn’t move it. You need dowel or rod close to bore size as you can get. If this isn’t possible, buy a piece of brass like a 32 cal jag for a muzzle loader and drive it from rear with a solid rod. Don’t peck around use a heavy hammer and strike it smartly. Once you get it moving you got it made. When you strike have muzzel on a board so all the force is directed on stuck bullet.

[JoeJames]

Reason I asked: ages ago I had a mini ball stuck in my muzzle loader. I took a small woodscrew, turned the screw head down on my drill press to where it would fit in the end of an old steel cleaning rod - then soldered it in the rod. Ran it down the barrel - screwed it into the lead mini ball and pulled it out. Bob's your uncle!

[john.k]

Catch with hammering a lead bullet is you may have bulged the barrel.If you can try blackpowder ,go for it...and pour some into the bore too ,behind the bullet.....be sure to guard against the possibility of a slug of blackpowder firing down the bore ,dont compress the powder into the case ,leave it loose ,and dont use any wads.

[Elroy]

I always thought that with black powder you want no air gap between the powder,and the projectile.

[725]

I would solder a drill bit on a long shaft, tape "doughnuts" on the shaft every 4"s or so, and drill the center out of the lead bullet. Reduce the riveted effects of the prior hammering and the drive it out with a near bore diameter brass rod. Oil is your friend.

[RU shooter]

Go buy a piece of brass or steel rod 1/4" dia or even closer to bore dia if possible wrap some electrical tape around the steel one about every 6-8"and the end that goes I first so it centers up inthe bore place muzzle on a board on the floor drop the rod in smack it with a big hammer .

[JimB..]

Lots of options, but I’d try drilling out the center of the bullet. Center drill a brass rod, solder in a drill bit of a reasonable size, slide it in and turn by hand. Once the center is gone it’ll be easy to drive put with the brass rod.

[toallmy]

How far in is it ? I ask because I have used a 18 inch drill bit with a sleeve around it to protect the bore turning it by hand to make removing a cast boolit possible .

[Texas by God]

Strip it down to the barreled receiver. Put a piece of stout wood(2x12) on the garage floor, driveway- a hard surface. Using oven mitts or leather gloves, heat the barrel adjacent to the stuck bullet with a propane torch until lead starts dripping out. Now bounce the muzzle end on the board until all the lead is out. Once it's cool, clean the bore and reassemble. You can sometimes restore old "shot out" .22 rim fires this way too.

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[Dapaki]

Too much to respond to but one thing for sure, BP needs confinement to deflagrate (BP does not detonate), it is a "low Explosive" and is not known to self confine in modest heaps.

The use of a BP blank in the barrel with a good crimp at the end of the brass would send out a pressure wave beyond the breech where the barrel is the weakest, suggest you dont ever use a BP charge to free the boolit.

A brass rod pushed hydraulically will free the slug, no matter how jammed it is, the lead will flow past the rod when the pressure makes the lead plastic. Fluid dynamics show us that pounding sends the pressure out to the sides at an approximate 45 degree angle so if the boolit is x2 the bore in length, almost all the pressure will just be sent to the bore walls and not to push out the slug as you wish.

Hydraulic pressure can turn the solid into a fluid (plastic) and can push the core of the slug out of the barrel.

Also, paper is very abrasive, it's shear strength along its length is enormous! It can indeed lock in a boolit until the radial pressure is removed by drilling (very good idea!) or using slow, hydraulic pressure.

I cannot recommend heating the barrel, it could have disastrous results if it was heat treated (most are) or cryogenically cooled (many are) to destress the crystalline structure.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.

[Gtek]

RU Shooters way, all day! Even better with a gas check epoxied on end of rod. I would think a 1/4" steel rod would be more than enough using a REAL hammer.
A small rod you are expanding as much or more as pushing.

[Dapaki]

Gtek, you can bulge a barrel that way.

[popper]

Drill hole in it then push out with rod.

[Dapaki]

Drill hole in it then push out with rod.

I'll second that

[country gent]

You might order a 1/8"- 3/16" drill 18" long and some brass tubing 12" length 3/16" ID X .300 or so OD slightly smaller wont hurt. Look in metric sizes to get best fits possible. file a square on the shank of the drill and use a tap handle to turn it run brass tubing into bore and drill thru it turn by hand breaking chips often. You want to be a peck driling machine. taking small chips and clearing often to keep them from packing in. work slow as you cut the bullet will collapse pinching the drill and forcing it to cut on the sides. use light oil or dish soap water on the drill as you cut.

Chances are good that just before you break thru the bullet will collapse and loosen, being able to be pushed or pulled out. If not a rod will push it out.

Paper has a lot of grip to it and under pressure its formidable. Modern papers and the coating make them hard to dissolve. Cleaning solvents like hoppes or shooters choice may soften it, but under the compression it will take along time to work thru. The compressed paper will act as a gasket sealing the gap.

The drill you buy only needs flutes 3-6" long the rest can be solid

[JimB..]

Honestly guys, it never occurred to me to use a piece of copper or brass tube to keep the drill away from the rifling, although now that you’ve said it it’s obvious. Anyway, thanks for that!

[2152hq]

You could just do as Tex offered and melt the offending dud out of there.
Inspite it being a gun barrel, it's no more than an already HT'd piece of alloy before it was made into a bbl.
It's pretty soft steel and lead melting temp won't effect much of anything.

Lead melting temp is in the 600+/- range. You won't be doing any more to the bbl than if you were to soft solder a rear sight base onto the bbl'. Plenty of that's been done with no problems or blow-ups.
Tens of 1000's of Mausers had their rear sight base soft soldered to their finished bbl & right up at the chamber end,,none of those suffered any damage.
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If you don't like to work w/heat,
Country Gents description is about the best. Something to protect the bore above the obstruction is needed and the brass tubing is a good trick.
You'll most likely be pulling the drill out often (should be IMO) to clear any lead chips from the drill flutes.
Lead is soft obviously but doesn't drill real nicely.
It sticks to the bit and the bit can get stuck in it and snap off.
If that happens down in there you're really stuck.
Go to #1 in that case.