Here the 250-3000 go high any 99 I see go upwards of 450 base to 650. Last 250-3000 have all been well over 1,000. I myself would like to have one. But at twice/three times of what a nice bolt gun I'll pass. I know one sold for 2300.00 some one knew something.
My bad - I had a brain farct, thinking of the .303 Savage...…….Originally Posted by richhodg66
.
Now I lay me down to sleep
A gun beside me is what I keep
If I awake, and you're inside
The coroner's van is your next ride
I was looking over ballistic differences between the .250-.3000 and the .257 Roberts, which I have, and there really is no difference. The ballistics are virtually the same through all the bullet weights.
Death to every foe and traitor and hurrah, my boys, for freedom !
Those two are perhaps the ideal cartridges for 99% of whitetail hunters. They're easy to shoot well and can kill dear as dead as any. Accuracy is the critical issue, not tremendous muzzle flash and a huge BANG!
I know one fellow who actually bought a .338 Win for Georgia whitetail because he's sure nothing less powerful is sufficently reliable! ??
I recall reading that the .257 Roberts was under loaded by the factories, I can't recall the reason though. It has more capacity than the .250-3000.
Savage 99’s are great rifles. Lots of them out there in various models and condition. The 250-3000 has become heavily sought after by collectors and shooters. It was designed for an 87g bullet. All pre-million serial numbered 250-3000 will have a 1-14 twist. Later, Savage introduced model 99a in 250-3000. I think they dropped the “3000” and called the round “250 Savage”. These have 1-10 twist.
Without model and condition it tough to assign a value. Collectors issues are added sling studs, cut butt stocks for pads, crack in upper tang, non factory D/T, re-blue, refinish, extra holes in receiver, etc.... Decent condition pre- mil “shooters” seem to bring $5-800. These would include models EG and R. Earlier ones command a premium again though condition is key.
Some pre- mil EG’s and R’s were factory D/T. Sling “eyes” were also included on R’s. Factory options included sling studs. It does get confusing figuring the models, options and changes.
Hope This info was somewhat helpful.
Handloaded the "Bob" far outperforms the 250-3000, especially in a bolt or single shot.
A 250-3000 in a 99 is just as heavy as a 300 so unless you are a collector, it makes little sense.
That said I own a solid frame 22 HighPower which is totally silly.
I wanted a 250/3000 m99 because I had one for a short time when I was 15. It was a carbine model with straight stock. I’ve been looking for one and jumped on 99EG even though that’s not what I wanted. I’m only interested in older spool mag and safety on lever guns. Mine is a 1950 model. I have no idea what I shot in 1965, whatever Western Auto had in stock. I’ve herd the twist issue with 100gr bullets for years. I loaded a few 117gr RNs and they did 1.5” at 100yds. That is perfectly acceptable to me. I shot with 10x but will be deer hunting with receiver sights. I will keep this one till I get a shot at a carbine. I get a few 300s and 303sav every year. Until the collectors got into 99s the 300 was the only one easy to trade or sell.
Here is a link to a good reference book regarding the Savage 99. Lots of excellent info and pics. Might help you find what your looking for in a carbine.
A Collector's Guide to the Savage 99 Rifle and its Predecessors, the Model 1895 and 1899 https://www.amazon.com/dp/0764350269..._jhnLEb8T33VBD
No eBay
Last edited by Pressman; 04-15-2020 at 10:56 AM. Reason: Added info
OK...here is the beast....what do you think it is worth.
It has been knocked about...it is NOT pristine,,,the blueing is faded....it has decent rifling..it IS a .250-.3000
Attachment 260333Attachment 260334Attachment 260335Attachment 260336Attachment 260337
the barrel is 22" and I believe the low serial number indicates its a pre-war manufacture. The savage data base says manufacture in 1926.
4-23-2020
according to my reference book this is a model 99G
Last edited by atr; 04-23-2020 at 01:55 PM.
Death to every foe and traitor and hurrah, my boys, for freedom !
That looks like an 1899 takedown, definitely a desirable rifle, but the condition is not great. You can check the serial # online and should be able to get the date of manufacture.
Value is hard to pin down, but in that condition is quite a bit down from an excellent condition gun......I'm thinking it's primarily a shooter. Local conditions and the caliber will reflect what someone is willing to pay. Depends too, if the barrel joint is tight, bore is decent.
Hard to tell from the pictures, but the bluing seems not really bad, don't see rust, and looks like the color case hardening is showing on the lever, and it has the tang sight......all good things. The damage to the toe of the butt stock and the missing rear sight is unfortunate. But going from the pictures as is, it has limited collector value, or would if I was buying it.
Pre war. Pistol butt tells me it’s a “99G”. “Shooter” for sure. Around here at gun shows it would have $500 on the tag and bring $400 or so. That’s my opinion based on what is see in pics and at shows. Your area or online may be more or less. It has significant issues for a collector.
That tang sight looks cool. Not an expert but it’s worth $75 or more. If it’s windage adjustable Lyman, MORE! The Lyman 29 1/2 and 30 1/2 for these have value.
Watch eBay for sights and even butt stocks if you decide to replace either. You’d be surprised at what shows up sometimes for these.
The broken toe on the butt stock is better than if it were cut in my opinion. I’ve seen some excellent repairs to like problems. Be a good project for a cold or rainy day.
If the barrel is a bit loose when assembled you can lightly pean the threads and tighten it up. I did it to my 22 HP years ago and it worked fine. Found the info online.
Shoot it, hunt it, enjoy!
OK,,,now my ignorance is showing....what does take-down mean? I think it means that that barrel can be separated from the action. So how is that accomplished? What do I look for ...do ? the upper left photo shows something that may be the release...correct? Does this "button" push in to release the barrel?
its a learning experience here...
thanks
atr
Death to every foe and traitor and hurrah, my boys, for freedom !
There is a latch on the forearm, remove the forearm and the barrel can be turned off. It has an interrupted thread so it's only a part turn to remove it. You may find it's quite tight, which is good.
The "button" I think you might be referring to is actually the cartridge counter on the magazine spool.
The bolt has to be opened to remove the barrel.
Last edited by roadie; 04-14-2020 at 06:28 PM. Reason: additional info
Roadie is correct. The forearm latch is right behind the front sling swivel stud. Remove the forearm moving this latch. Barrel will then come off by twisting. Look on the barrel, it will have a stamped arrow. Tight is good, a bit loose might be corrected with a punch and light taps on the threads. Really cool feature and design.
That tang sight by itself would be a $125 item on Ebay.
$400 - $500 for a 250-3000? Talk about a low ball price. Maybe the 99s around here are more beat up. But the condition of that rifle isn’t bad. No bluing, beat up stock, freckled barrel in a commons caliber like 300 Savage goes for $400 all day long. And they sell.
At the end of day they are a tool. They were never meant to hang on the wall to be looked at fondly. They were never meant to sit in the back of a dark safe for years on end. They were meant to taken into the field. The rounded underside of the receiver feels perfect in your hand as you’re walking though the woods. The rifle is worth what someone is willing to pay.
Nice! As stated my thoughts were my area and what I see in like condition. Wasn’t an offer to buy or “low ball” anyone. If the OP is selling I wish him luck getting top dollar.
I paid $700-$800+/- for my pre-war 250-3000 99 takedown in great "honest" condition. That was 10+ years ago... I saw the thread title and immediately got goosebumps thinking somebody had scored a 99 in 25-35! That is the only caliber I haven't been able to pick up for anything less than INSANE prices... it seems the 99 in 25-35 has a lot in common with a hen's tooth.
Looking for Ideal mold 419181 (44 Evans Long)
"Joined Dates" are deceiving if you factor-in "lurk" dates.
An 1899 in .25-35 or .38-55 would be the ultimate find for me. That .250-3000 model 1899 would probably sit awhile around here @ $600- and then be gone in a day.
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