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Thread: Lubrication of a Ruger Single Action

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Lubrication of a Ruger Single Action

    Well let's talk lubrication of Ruger single actions, Blackhawks, super Blackhawks, and single sixes.

    I normally put a drop of oil in the pawl slot, the cylinder stop, the base pin, and one on the hammer aimed at the little plunger. Normally 3in1 or hoppes oil.

    I was thinking "maybe I should use grease on the ratchet?" So what if anything should I do different?

    Thanks,

    Bazoo

  2. #2
    Boolit Master


    Walks's Avatar
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    I use Ballistol, all those places and the both ends of the cylinder, inside trigger slot and hammer strut.

    NM Blackhawk - .357Mag - 6 1/2" bbl. Bought new in 1974. Close to 50,000rds, at least 30,000rds were Lyman #358156GC over Max 2400 in .357Mag cases.

    Haven't replaced a single part. Probably could use a new bolt.

    My pair of Real Vaquero's in .45Colt STS 7 1/2" bbl. Probably close to 10,000 a piece.
    Lubed same way.

    Cleaned on a semi-regular basis.

    Got other Ruger SA's, lubed same way.
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  3. #3
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    I oil the base pin and gas ring, and apply a heavy lube like TW-25B 'grease' to the ratchet. Oil on the other places you mentioned.
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  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master


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    I wipe it down with a patch damp with gun oil. They don't need any more than that. Grease could become a problem, and won't help anything.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    Thanks for the responses.

    Walks, what do you mean bolt?

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master GhostHawk's Avatar
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    ATF for me, Dextron II or III.

    Wipe on a thin film and after 30 seconds wipe it off.

    Nothing there to collect dust. Grease can collect dust and debris and turn into something that eats metal instead of protecting it.

    The first time I worked over my Heritage .22lr it sounded and acted like a brand new pistol. Cylinder rotated smoother, sounded like a sewing machine in perfect adjustment. Click click snick snack and hammer is cocked, cylinder is locked and all effortless and smooth.

    Since then it has become my #1 choice for gun oil inside and out.

    A drop or 2 on a towel works great for outsides. Same on a patch, cleans out the dirt, leaves bore shiny and clean. But without effecting where it shoots.
    Use in moderation.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walks View Post
    I use Ballistol, all those places and the both ends of the cylinder, inside trigger slot and hammer strut.

    NM Blackhawk - .357Mag - 6 1/2" bbl. Bought new in 1974. Close to 50,000rds, at least 30,000rds were Lyman #358156GC over Max 2400 in .357Mag cases.

    Haven't replaced a single part. Probably could use a new bolt.

    My pair of Real Vaquero's in .45Colt STS 7 1/2" bbl. Probably close to 10,000 a piece.
    Lubed same way.

    Cleaned on a semi-regular basis.

    Got other Ruger SA's, lubed same way.
    What is a "Real" Vaquero?

  8. #8
    Boolit Master Thumbcocker's Avatar
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    I grease the ratchet and put a tiny amount on the front of the cylinder where the base pin will get it on the way in. One droplet or gi gun oil in the cylinder stop cut in the frame, one droplet in the front of the hammer to hit the plunger and one droplet in the slot at the back of the hammer. I use a needle oiler. Nothing magical about gi oil I just got a good buy on a quart of it years ago. I do like gi rifle grease on the ratchet and base pin. Others swear by STP. My most used revolvers feel like two greased ball bearings in a leather bag when you cock them.
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  9. #9
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    I just use Ballistol .
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  10. #10
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    5-30 Mobile 1 in a needle oiler.
    Steve,

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  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master Tatume's Avatar
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    Although I can't find the citation, John Linebaugh recommended putting a drop of oil on the cylinder "nose." He said that even the thinnest layer of oil would reduce battering between the front bearing surface of the cylinder and the frame. In the loads that Linebaugh works with, battering is a concern.

  12. #12
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    Every three or four years I lube the base pin with STP oil. It will cover the front of the cylinder with plenty of lube. I remember 44 man talking about it so I tried it and it works for me.
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  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    I used to use oil and grease in them. I also shoot Blackpowder in them as well and would end up with a mess. After taking Driftwood Johnson’s advise I use Balistol only in them and on the heavy side. Clean up is a piece of cake now.
    I have always been one that uses more lube than other's though.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by smithnframe View Post
    What is a "Real" Vaquero?
    Maybe he means real as opposed to imaginary!
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  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I appreciate the conversation everyone. I never would have thought of lubing the front of the cylinder to help with battering. Thanks for that tip.

    I generally wipe the soot from and lube my revolvers after every firing.

    As a side note, I can't stand the smell of ballistol.

  16. #16
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    No blackpowder here except for muzzleloaders, so no worries with that.

  17. #17
    Boolit Bub
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    Real Vaquero is referring to the first generation of Vaquero built on the full size frame. As opposed to the New Vaquero, which is built on the new lighter flattop frame.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    Marvel myster oil love it !

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    I lightly lube the base pin with whatever oil is in the squirt can, and a single drop onto the cocked hammer so it runs down on the hook and trigger/sear.
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT Gianni View Post
    Every three or four years I lube the base pin with STP oil. It will cover the front of the cylinder with plenty of lube. I remember 44 man talking about it so I tried it and it works for me.
    I use STP on the base pin as well. It works better than anything else I have tried.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check