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Thread: Outside barrel rust removal.

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    I have been having issues with my rifle rusting on the barrel edges. I don't mind patina, but rust on a blued barrel looks bad. I tried re-blueing but the blue doesn't hold for long. Its in the gun rack in my room right beside me and il pick it up short after and it will be rusty.

    Any way to take the rust off and prevent it from happening? Im using cold blue.
    Before you do anything but reclean the rifle and reoil it, you might want to watch this video, and anything else on restoration work that grabs your interest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHyoUF50rF0&t=2093s this is a Anvil C&Rsenal video at Youtube. They use steam to reconvert the rust back into blue or black oxide.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    That will most likely remove the remaining bluing. Fine copper, brass or standard 4/0 steel wool will work.
    I usually use fine steel wool. I guess il get to scrubbing.

  3. #23
    Boolit Master RU shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Do then acids get spent after awhile? Im guessing they get trapped in pores and it activates since oil might not have gotten that deep in the metal.
    Yes they will finally nutrilize on its own just oil it and wipe later with cloth it will stop on its own after a few weeks or you can chemically neutralize just like any other acid . When I brown my muzzle loader barrels when I get the color I'm after I will flood the barrel with ammonia several times over a days time and then apply a very heavy coat of light motor oil . I'm not sure what acid is in cold blue or what's the best way to neutralize but I'm sure the Internet knows . But the ammonia works for my browning solution it's Laural mtn forge brand and pretty aggressive .
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  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RU shooter View Post
    Yes they will finally nutrilize on its own just oil it and wipe later with cloth it will stop on its own after a few weeks or you can chemically neutralize just like any other acid . When I brown my muzzle loader barrels when I get the color I'm after I will flood the barrel with ammonia several times over a days time and then apply a very heavy coat of light motor oil . I'm not sure what acid is in cold blue or what's the best way to neutralize but I'm sure the Internet knows . But the ammonia works for my browning solution it's Laural mtn forge brand and pretty aggressive .
    Thanks for the info.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrounge View Post
    Before you do anything but reclean the rifle and reoil it, you might want to watch this video, and anything else on restoration work that grabs your interest: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHyoUF50rF0&t=2093s this is a Anvil C&Rsenal video at Youtube. They use steam to reconvert the rust back into blue or black oxide.
    Thanks, il watch it.

  6. #26
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    Only thing about using a wax on the table saw is that it can be transferred to the wood you are working with. And if you stain or varnish it the wax can cause problems with the finish. I used to clean the table with abrasives to get rid of the rust, then wipe it down with way oil from my lathe. When I next used the saw wiped it down with shop towels. When done repeat the process. Think humid basement. I used the red shop towels or rags for all the metal surfaces. They can be easily washed in the washer. However wash them by them selves. Other wise whatever you wash them with can turn a not so pretty shade of red or pink. Don't ask how I know. I normally use LPS #1 &#2 for my lathe and drill press for rust protection. Frank

  7. #27
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    RIG solved my southern coastal 100% humidity rust every day problem.

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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by samari46 View Post
    Only thing about using a wax on the table saw is that it can be transferred to the wood you are working with. And if you stain or varnish it the wax can cause problems with the finish. I used to clean the table with abrasives to get rid of the rust, then wipe it down with way oil from my lathe. When I next used the saw wiped it down with shop towels. When done repeat the process. Think humid basement. I used the red shop towels or rags for all the metal surfaces. They can be easily washed in the washer. However wash them by them selves. Other wise whatever you wash them with can turn a not so pretty shade of red or pink. Don't ask how I know. I normally use LPS #1  for my lathe and drill press for rust protection. Frank
    Thanks for the suggestion! I use many of the red shop towels myself.
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  9. #29
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    Remove the wood, boil or steam like a rust blue. Turn it into bluing.
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  10. #30
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Remove the wood, boil or steam like a rust blue. Turn it into bluing.
    Yeah, but Its not like I have a steamer. Id want to do just the barrel. Im not sure how long I need to let it steam for...

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    Yeah, but Its not like I have a steamer. Id want to do just the barrel. Im not sure how long I need to let it steam for...
    a bucket or pot, a piece of PVC pipe, something to heat water in the pot, and a way to hang the barrel in the pipe, set up over the pot, and there you go! The Anvil folks use a turkey fryer and PVC pipe, IIRC.

  12. #32
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    OK Kev: I use Birchwood-Casey Cold Blue alot in my shop to finish small steel parts. I just refurbished a shot shell loader that had a bunch of black oxided parts that were rusted. I wire brushed the rust off and used the cold blue to make them black again. With small parts like screws I just hold onto them with tweezers and dip them directly into the bottle. then wipe off with a paper shop towel. You have to do this several times to get a good black finish. On larger parts I apply the stuff with a paper towel again do it several times.

    All oil must be gone, Rubbing Alcohol, Acetone, Lacquer Thinner, will do that.

    You have to apply the cold blue several times to get it into the metal all the way. It helps to heat the metal with a hair dryer or heat gun as that opens the pores of the metal and lets the color in, also rubbing it in with 0000 steel wool will work wonders making the color darker. Mild steel takes the color better than harder steels.

    After you have done this 3-4 times and gotten the color as dark as you want,Wipe it down with alcohol and heat the metal up hopefully just above where you can't hold onto it and apply a thick coat of Trewax or even Frog Lube. Rub off excess between and after coats with a towel. Do this a couple more times and it ain't gonna rust.

    Note: IMHO Frog Lube sux as a gun lubricant, but it works pretty well as a rust preventative. Also Note: People have been waxing their guns for centuries for rust prevention. Bees Wax being one of the primary things. What do you think they used on Black Powder guns which often were used in the rain? Not like they had any Magic Lubes back then, in fact back then Bacon Grease was right up there at the top, and Whale Oil was about the only flowing lubricant available.

    The key to being successful is to heat the metal!

    Try this and get back to us.

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  13. #33
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by W.R.Buchanan View Post
    OK Kev: I use Birchwood-Casey Cold Blue alot in my shop to finish small steel parts. I just refurbished a shot shell loader that had a bunch of black oxided parts that were rusted. I wire brushed the rust off and used the cold blue to make them black again. With small parts like screws I just hold onto them with tweezers and dip them directly into the bottle. then wipe off with a paper shop towel. You have to do this several times to get a good black finish. On larger parts I apply the stuff with a paper towel again do it several times.

    All oil must be gone, Rubbing Alcohol, Acetone, Lacquer Thinner, will do that.

    You have to apply the cold blue several times to get it into the metal all the way. It helps to heat the metal with a hair dryer or heat gun as that opens the pores of the metal and lets the color in, also rubbing it in with 0000 steel wool will work wonders making the color darker. Mild steel takes the color better than harder steels.

    After you have done this 3-4 times and gotten the color as dark as you want,Wipe it down with alcohol and heat the metal up hopefully just above where you can't hold onto it and apply a thick coat of Trewax or even Frog Lube. Rub off excess between and after coats with a towel. Do this a couple more times and it ain't gonna rust.

    Note: IMHO Frog Lube sux as a gun lubricant, but it works pretty well as a rust preventative. Also Note: People have been waxing their guns for centuries for rust prevention. Bees Wax being one of the primary things. What do you think they used on Black Powder guns which often were used in the rain? Not like they had any Magic Lubes back then, in fact back then Bacon Grease was right up there at the top, and Whale Oil was about the only flowing lubricant available.

    The key to being successful is to heat the metal!

    Try this and get back to us.

    Randy
    It doesnt look to bad now, I did the part infont of the receiver. One issue I have Is theres a white foggy line around the edge of the applied blue... Im not sure what causes this?

  14. #34
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Kroil and #0000 steel wool or a copper penny followed by a coat of RIG.

  15. #35
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    Instructions for a steamer.
    http://www.rustblue.com/about/instructions

  16. #36
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    Well you guys convinceed me. I have an order of Big 45 coming. I was talking to someone and they say its awesome. Everyone loves it. So for the price, Il try it.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master Kev18's Avatar
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    I thought I had a good idea and bought some synthetic steel wool. Turns out I can see small scratches on the metal. I thought it would of been better then actual steel.

  18. #38
    Boolit Master pietro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18

    Well you guys convinced me. I have an order of Big 45 coming.

    Ya lead a horse to water, and now it'll finally drink...…..


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  19. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    I thought I had a good idea and bought some synthetic steel wool. Turns out I can see small scratches on the metal. I thought it would of been better then actual steel.
    The synthetic has abrasive granules in it.
    Spell check doesn't work in Chrome, so if something is spelled wrong, it's just a typo that I missed.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kev18 View Post
    I thought I had a good idea and bought some synthetic steel wool. Turns out I can see small scratches on the metal. I thought it would of been better then actual steel.
    Cumulative knowledge is a great thing and highly beneficial. Re-inventing the wheel not so much.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check