OK there's more going on here with my stripped handle screw hole than I thought

[Patrick L]

Ok so yesterday I posted this

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...le-suggestions

and I made up a new screw. Now today the OPPOSITE side has stripped. I have about 12-15 Lee six bangers, I've been using them for close to 30 years, so it's not like I'm abusing/overtightening them. I know how to treat aluminum molds. But what are the odds of this happening in the same mold???

So after looking things over, I think I have a defective mold. I notice that when the screws are tightened, they sit WAY below the surface of the mold bottom, much deeper than any of my other molds. The actual threaded portion for the screw is therefore a lot thinner than it is on all my other molds.

So, even though what I did yesterday was beautiful, and is working fine, it is only a matter of time before it fails again.

So, I see two options. I could make a much bigger screw, like a setscrew, that uses the full diameter of the screw entrance hole. Probably like a 1/4 or 5/16. Or, go down from the top, like my HM2 .30 caliber mold. The handle screws set under the sprue plate in the top surface.

[Winger Ed.]

Bummer.

I'd just modify the other side like the first one, and get as long/much thread 'grip' as ya can.

[Patrick L]

The problem is, there's just NOT enough thread grip if I do that. I think that LEE bored the hole for the screws too deep.

Like I said, I don't think its a question of IF yesterday's fix will fail, it's a question of WHEN it will.

[gwpercle]

I would attach the modified handles to the mould ... and leave them attached .
Could be the constant attaching and removing is just wearing the 30 year old moulds out .

Because of cost I had 1 set of Lyman handles and 10-12 Lyman blocks ... I would attach and remove them every time I wanted to cast with another mould...wear & tear on the screws was excessive. When I discovered Lee 6 cavity Handles would fit my Lyman moulds I outfitted every one with it's own set of handles to eliminate the screwing and unscrewing wear and tear ...it works !
Get them from Cabela's for $14.99...worth every penny not to have to put them on and take them off every time .
Gary

[Patrick L]

These blocks are not 30 years old, I was just making the point that I have years and years of experience with a lot of LEE aluminum molds. This is actually one of my newest, maybe 8-10 years old.

No thanks, I don't intend to buy that many mold handles. I have 4 sets, that's plenty.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

My opinion is, that I like your idea of going down from the top, like HM² did on his molds. If you can find the optimum size screws, it would be an easy fix.

[Patrick L]

JonB

I think that's what I'll ultimately do. For now, I AM going to do what I did on the opposite side, just to get me functional. In the meantime, I'll start measuring to determine the ideal screw size to use, make sure I have them and the appropriate bits, taps, etc.

Good news is, I have probably about 1200 of these lubed and ready to go, a full 3# coffee can of them cast, and ALL my .44 brass (@800 or so) is loaded. Yeah, this self isolation has had me busy trying to keep from going nuts with boredom. Since I can't go shoot for awhile, I think I'm set.

This project will give me something else to occupy the time...

[Petrol & Powder]

You could convert it to the system RCBS uses where the pin the holds the blocks to the handle is just a separate smooth pin captured in place by a small set screw. The length of the pin is less critical, and in fact can be a little shorter to allow for some expansion. There's very little force on the set screw, its job is to simply cap the hole so that the pin doesn't fall out.

[Patrick L]

OK so here's how I ended up. I repaired the second stripped screw the same way I did the first, BUT, since i didn't have any more 12-24 screws and I'm not going out for anything non essential, I used a 1/4-20 screw. I seemed a LOT more substantial (and solid,) so after I was done I said the heck with it and redid the first one.

All work was done with files while the donor screw is spinning in the chuck. I start off by filing down the diameter of the screw head so it will enter the holes in the bottom of the mold.

Then I mask off the threads next to the head to mark how much to leave, and the threads beyond the final length needed.


Basically you file the area between the tape down to the diameter of the original pin, then cut it to length. As I get closer to final diameter, I use progressively finer cut files. I polish it with oiled 600 paper on a flat needle file. I also taper the end slightly





That's it! All put together

[Petrol & Powder]

Well Done !

[Daveco]

Excellent repair job!

[skeettx]

THANK YOU
for sharing

Mike