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Thread: Stripped handle screw hole, suggestions?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


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    Stripped handle screw hole, suggestions?

    Taking advantage of the stay at home time to cast. Last night I went to put handles on a Lee 6 banger, and one of the screw holes is stripped. I'll figure out a solution, but if any of you have " been there done that" you could maybe share what you did?? Maybe save me a step or two 😉.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    CastingFool's Avatar
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    Haven't stripped a screw hole on a mold, but I have repaired stripped threads on other items by using helicoil inserts.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Shawlerbrook's Avatar
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    Ditto on the helicoil.

  4. #4
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    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
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    I don't have any advice for repairing your Lee mold.
    BUT, I have advice for anyone reading this, to avoid the problem.
    I coat the threads with a copper based anti-seize compound.

    I always store my molds without handles, so I have to install the handles (and remove them) for each casting session.
    Threads seizing is a common problem with aluminum molds with steel screws...it's that dissimilar metal thingy along with the Heat-cool cycle. The aluminum will gall onto the steel screw threads, stripping the threads out the mold.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Like JonB I use anti-seize on all the screws on the whole mold. Doesn't matter if it's aluminum, iron or brass. I don't disassemble between casting sessions and even years later they come apart without issue. Cheap insurance. I also put a little under the sprue plate at the pivot bolt/screw.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master



    Springfield's Avatar
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    Heli-coils have not worked well for me, I prefer time-serts, as they are more solid. I also now use the copper based anti-seize, seems to have slowed down the stripped hole syndrome.

  7. #7
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    Winger Ed.'s Avatar
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    You might be able to tap it to another size that's a little bit larger.
    In school: We learn lessons, and are given tests.
    In life: We are given tests, and learn lessons.


    OK People. Enough of this idle chit-chat.
    This ain't your Grandma's sewing circle.
    EVERYONE!
    Back to your oars. The Captain wants to waterski.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master


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    Bingo Ed. I'm currently about halfway done making a slightly larger screw, just need to shape the smaller smooth nose where it goes thru the hole in the handles.

    I'll try to post a pic later.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master


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    Springfield,

    I agree. It just doesn't look like there's enough meat to get a heli coil in there, at least not with our a LOT of finagling. I think my idea will be better

  10. #10
    Boolit Master


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    So here's my fix



    I took a 12-24 machine screw and chucked it in the drill press. I used a file to reduce the head diameter so it would fit into the hole in the bottom of the mold, the I masked off the threads to the height of the threads on the factory screw. I then filed the rest of the screw to the diameter of the smooth section that passes through handle. then just whacked off excess length. Viola!

    Seems solid.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    I was going to say slip a sliver of aluminum foil in the hole then put in the screw but re tapping is a better option. Did you have to drill the handle jaws?

  12. #12
    Boolit Master


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    Martin,

    Nope, I turned the front of the pin down to the same diameter as the factory screw!

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    When I find worn, stripped out buttplate screw holes in a stock I make a quick fix of the stock by dropping 2-3 toothpicks into the hole, then install the buttplate and screw. Carefully applied this may work for your mold but would suggested leaving the handles attached rather that on-off-on.

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