Cooling Arbors While Neck Turning

[RG1911]

I am forming 260Rem from virgin military surplus 308 cases. A test indicates that I will need to turn the necks down about .003" to make sure the cases have sufficient clearance for extraction. (It's a semi-auto rifle.)

Doing this causes the arbor of the K&M tool to overheat unless I let the tool cool off between cases.

Many moons ago, my 'smith sold me a couple aerosol cans of a coolant (and possibly lubricant) that really worked. Naturally, I'm out of it and cannot remember the name. Doing a search I came up with four aerosols that look like they might work:

Wahl Blade Coolant Lubricant
https://www.ebay.com/itm/WAHL-Blade-...z/174094211892

Zep Lubeze
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/m...ol-can-12-cans

Cool Tool II
https://www.ajaxtoolsupply.com/coiicuandtaf1.html

Miller Stephanson Freeze Spray
https://www.zoro.com/miller-stephens...eature-product

The last one, the Miller Stephanson, *looks* like how I remember the can looking.

Does anyone here use coolant in an aerosol can and, if so, can you recommend any of these products (or one that I did not find)?

Thank you,
Richard

[Gofaaast]

Oster Kool Lube could have been what you used.

[cwtebay]

Kool lube is a remarkable product. I'm sure that you won't be disappointed with that!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

[RG1911]

Kool lube is a remarkable product. I'm sure that you won't be disappointed with that!

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Thank you. I'll give that one a try, also.

Cheers, Richard

[garandsrus]

Are you sure your cutter is sharp and installed correctly? I can’t imagine how cutting .003 off a brass case neck would heat up anything. How long does it take to trim a neck?

[M-Tecs]

Are you sure your cutter is sharp and installed correctly? I can’t imagine how cutting .003 off a brass case neck would heat up anything. How long does it take to trim a neck?

The arbor doesn't turn with the case. The heat is from the friction between the arbor an the neck. K&M recommends Imperial Sizing Wax on the arbor.

https://kmshooting.com/wp-content/up...dia_pdf_97.pdf

The video is using graphite. Imperial Sizing Wax works way better.

[RG1911]

The arbor doesn't turn with the case. The heat is from the friction between the arbor an the neck. K&M recommends Imperial Sizing Wax on the arbor.

https://kmshooting.com/wp-content/up...dia_pdf_97.pdf

The video is using graphite. Imperial Sizing Wax works way better.

Dry neck lube. I had not seen that before. I'll order some asap.

Thank you, Richard

[RG1911]

Are you sure your cutter is sharp and installed correctly? I can’t imagine how cutting .003 off a brass case neck would heat up anything. How long does it take to trim a neck?

Cutter seems to be fine. I use a power screwdriver with my K&M case holder, so the mandrel and case neck tend to get hot after several cases.

I need to clean the inside of the necks (the cases are once-fired and I just noticed they're fairly dirty) and try some of the dry lube that M-Tecs recommended. I've used Imperial lube before, and it works but then I have to clean the lube from inside the neck so powder doesn't stick while charging the cases.

Thank you,
Richard

[country gent]

Motor mica can be used also. I just lube the case mouth on the case with a light touch of the mouth on the tin of imperial sizing die wax. Works for the mandrel and also to improve the finish. A simple bar of Ivory soap also will work just touch case mouth and turn. Or it can be dissolved into a paste and used.

For brass a lot will work but the molybdenum dry lubes may impregnate into the case neck and or mandrel.

[gwrench]

The dry neck lube is powdered graphite in some ceramic(?) balls. I like it for bottlenecked cases. You could make something similar with dry graphite in shotgun shot.

The sizing wax makes more sense to me.