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Thread: BT's .458 Swaging dies for 7.62 brass casings.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



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    BT's .458 Swaging dies for 7.62 brass casings.

    A couple years back I purchased .458 Swaging dies for converting .308/7.62 brass to get the the closest projectiles to fmj for the .458 SOCOM. Trimming the cases to the 1.1" more or less I can't seem to get the cases to completely resize before placing the next case on the punch to push it through. I've tried to adjust the die and punch every way I can and can't seem to get the case to clear the reducing ring in one stroke. Early on I got one case stuck inside the other causing a mess the BT had to fix for me. My best guess is that I need a . 10" more or less longer punch to push the case through the reducing ring. I'm in the process of starting my Swaging endeavours after being off the grid for a while.
    Thanks,
    Bill

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

    rancher1913's Avatar
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    swage lube is a necessity. if i'm sizing down brass I anneal it first, dont know if that would work on brass you plan on reloading.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  3. #3
    Boolit Master



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    I trim to length, anneal, lube and then run the case through the re-sizing die, however there comes the problem. The resized case does not completely pass through the reducing ring until I start the next case through the die. If this is normal, so be it, however I have had the second case push into the previous case, not pushing it clear of the ring, causing both to be jammed in the die then you have it two unusable cases and a potentially useless die.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

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    sometimes my 22lr do that when derimming, use swagging lube, only a little bit as to much is as big as problem as none. have you adjusted your die down as far as it will go. you might talk to btsniper and send him both the die and punch to figure your problem, that way he can make a new punch if thats what is needed.
    if you are ever being chased by a taxidermist, don't play dead

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

    midnight's Avatar
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    All you need is a short length of mild steel push rod a bit smaller in diameter than the sizing ring. Bring down the ram and place the pusher on top of the punch annd finish pushing the case through the ring. Lower the ram, remove the push rod & put a new lubed case on the punch. Richard Corbin used to include a pusher with his draw dies.

    Bob
    Si hostes visibilis, etiam tu

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    That problem has bothered me. You want the die adjusted so good leverage can be used in resizing the case. Then run out of stroke.

    I just take a small piece of rod, set it on the punch and work the handle again. It does slow things down considerably. Especially the times, some times catching but usually picking up the little piece of rod.
    To lazy to chase arrows.
    Clodhopper

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Yep, a 1 inch extension rod. The shank of a 1/4" drill bit will do.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub Metrobluing's Avatar
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    Perhaps a slightly longer punch is needed instead of an extension. Back the die out and use a longer punch that will put you in a decent leverage spot. I make them all the time.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

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    If you are using a swage press as I do you only have 1 1/2 inch of stroke. By the time you raise the die enough to get a case on the end of the punch, you don't have enough stroke to get the case all the way through the die, thus the need for a pusher. If you use the press in the reloading mode you have twice the stroke but 1/2 the leverage. A partial solution I sometimes use is to make a punch with a fairly long theraded section to screw into the ram. You can screw it out enough to push the case out & then screw it back down to get the next case on the punch. That takes as much time as using a pusher plus it is more wear on the threads of your punch.

    Bob
    Si hostes visibilis, etiam tu

  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy
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    what about different brass maybe ?
    I use 45 acp brass for 350-405g bullets, annealed first, no cutting.
    not sure if that is possible with your tooling, something to think about.
    Good Judgment comes from Experience, Experience comes from Bad Judgment !

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy tiger762's Avatar
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    I use a ball bearing for this exact reason. It takes two passes. I adjust the die so that the first pass gets the brass 60%. The second pass pushes it safely out of the way of the next brass casing.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master



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    nuntokute:
    I'll try that, my goal has been as close to a fmj with an open til for cycling the AR. Maybe that will work for my needs.
    tiger:
    Never thought about the ball bearing, I have a few rolling around the garage, when I find one I'll give that a try for giggles.

    Bill

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check