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Thread: Question on measuring bore diameter/slugging the bore

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy usmc0811's Avatar
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    Question on measuring bore diameter/slugging the bore

    I have slugged the bore on a few of my semi pistol barrels and this was my process.

    1- I removed the barrel to be slugged
    2- I took an empty case for the proper caliber needing to be slugged and filled with molten lead then let cool.
    3- Removed the "slug" from the cse using a kinetic puller.
    4- Using a wooden dowel and rubber mallet forced the slug through the muzzle end all the way out to the other side.

    Now so far I feel good with what I have done but then I alway get confused as to how to properly measure the slug. Do I
    measure the parts on the slug that are HIGH spots that would be the groves of the bore, or the LOW spots on the slug that
    would be the lands in the bore????
    Now if my cast bullets are dropping from the mold to the exact same size of the bore or slightly larger say .001''-.002''
    bigger than no need to resize, correct??

    Also if doing a revolver doi slug the barrel, the cylinder or the forcing cone part off the barrel? Am I just thinking to much into this LOL thanks guys Alway appreciate you help and feedback.

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
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    The high spots are the groove diameter of the barrel. That is the dimension most used to determine a good bullet diameter. The "bore" will be the small diameter of the barrel (the barrel ID prior to cutting the rifling), and the bullets only the same size to .002" larger than the bore will probably cause problems (leading, keyholing, accuracy). For my semi-auto pistols and rifles I shoot for bullets .002"-.003" over groove diameter as a starting point. For my revolvers I slug the barrel for information, to make sure the groove diameter is smaller than the cylinder throats. For my revolver bullets I measure (slug, pin/plug gauge or expanding ball gauges) and size my bullets to the same OD as the throats' ID. This is also a good starting point and more often than not, works quite well. If a bullet is larger than throat diameter it will be swaged down to the throat ID as it passes through when fired. For bullets smaller than throat diameter, leading and poor accuracy often occur.

    I use slugging methods similar to yours except, I use a mallet and a brass rod. Using a wooden dowel there is a possibility of the dowel breaking, splitting and jamming in the barrel. I've read about that happening a few times here on castboolits. And I prefer the "tap, tap, tap" of a harder mallet to the "push" of a rubber hammer but that probably is just my shop methods, preferences (lifelong machinist/mechanic). https://www.mcmaster.com/brass-rods

    One major plus of measuring your guns for cast bullet use is the knowledge gained. You know more about your guns...

    A bunch of good reading for a self quarantined day; http://www.lasc.us/castbulletnotes.htm
    Last edited by mdi; 03-30-2020 at 11:25 AM.
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy usmc0811's Avatar
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    Thank you for clearing it up for me. You helped me big time. I will have to get myself a brass rod and mallet.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I have used a steel rod wrapped with masking tape to protect the barrel.

  5. #5
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    Better to slug from the breech end when possible.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check