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Thread: How to remove a stuck cartridge

  1. #41
    Boolit Buddy BigEyeBob's Avatar
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    We have had two detonations in Australia over the last 5 or so years regarding stuck live cartridges .The detonations occurred when a brass or steel rod was passed down the bore of the rifles and struck to remove the cartridges . Both rifles were destroyed and one person severley injured .Both occurences were investigated and no definate conclusion was reached as to why the cartridges detonated .I would be looking at another method of removal .Apologise for the late reply and not completely reading the entire post , but I was concerned for your safety.

  2. #42
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    How would have hydraulic pressure have worked I wonder.
    Mostly filling the barrell with Ed’s red and making a tight fitting patch seal and whacking a bore safe rod with a hammer.
    I did that once at the range for some one but the case had been fired.

    They never did thank me either for doing it after the mandatory wrecking other people’s cleaning rods from the experts.

  3. #43
    I am convinced the case would not have budged without thermal contraction. I am unsure if using hydraulic pressure would have been more safe; is it he sudden shock of a hammer blow, or simply an excessive level of pressure, that can cause powder to combust? Purely from a physics standpoint, high enough pressure levels would have to result in ignition, but I doubt I could create anywhere near those kind of PSI figures, at least not without a press of some sort.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master
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    I think you get a good pressure push in a large area..
    Where as a rod would wants to buckle and flex soaking up the forces.
    The primer comes out and oil squirts everywhere.
    You really only get one good go at it.
    Just wondering of the physics/safety/how it would work with a live round.
    You could build up quite a shock force in theory.

    One time success with an empty shell doesn’t mean much.

    I’m interested too if it would be a viable way.

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    The marks on the case look strange.
    And kind of familiar.
    I have two 91 Arg carbines.
    Some yahoo ran a .308 reamer in to them.
    They shoot fine, but the cases look strange.
    Kind of a double shoulder.
    They also have marks similar to what you have.
    Probably not the same problem as your, but maybe someone ran a reamer in it.
    Glad you got it out without any drama.

  6. #46
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

    waksupi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HumptyDumpty View Post
    I am convinced the case would not have budged without thermal contraction. I am unsure if using hydraulic pressure would have been more safe; is it he sudden shock of a hammer blow, or simply an excessive level of pressure, that can cause powder to combust? Purely from a physics standpoint, high enough pressure levels would have to result in ignition, but I doubt I could create anywhere near those kind of PSI figures, at least not without a press of some sort.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_piston
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  7. #47
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scrounge View Post
    Find/buy a 1/4" hardwood dowel longer than the barrel + chamber. Slide it into the bore of the rifle, take it outside and set it muzzle down on the end of the dowel. If any power falls out, clean it up. Use the weight of the rifle to drive the dowel into the cartridge case. Then bump it once, check for more powder, clean it up, and repeat until it comes out. Might take a while, but that should get it.
    Using a dowel rod is always a bad idea, it will break, a brass rod is the way to go. As the case jumped the extractor, can you remove the bolt? A brass rod and no bolt should make it easy to remove. It might be a good idea to kill the primer by soaking in penetrating oil before you start beating on it....

  8. #48
    Boolit Master
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    I use aluminum rods.
    Hard to find brass rods here.
    Plus the aluminum cost less.

  9. #49
    Quote Originally Posted by waksupi View Post
    Wow. That is worth a trip to the hardware store

  10. #50
    Boolit Buddy
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    At this point it is moot, as he got the case out.
    Now he needs to fix his chamber.

  11. #51
    Boolit Grand Master



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    Personally I have never nor will I ever pound out a stuck loaded cartridge. I don't know if its the fire piston principle or the nitroglycerin content of the powder but I do know for a fact that pounding a loaded cartridge out has far more risk than benefit. Friend lost his thumb doing that with a stuck case in a die.

    Since I have been threading, chambering and installing barrels for 40 years pulling the barrel is always my preferred method. I was not aware of the Brownells type tool and that would be my second choice . Third is if it can be done safely firing it. Due to the rimmed damage the OP stated firing was not an option but lets do a risk analysis of firing in the OP's case. In the OP's case the load was 62% of max and 52% of the case volume but the lead bullet had been beat on. If the bullet was just pushed back the case volume was reduced. In the 30/06 with maximum push back the case volume would still be more than a 30/30 case and that load is safe in a 30/30 size case at 30/30 pressures. As the OP stated the bullet was pushed all the way into the case. If fired the burning powder gasses would be about the same as taking a match to loose powder. The bullet would just lay in the case as the powder burnt around it. Since I have a lead sled it would have been fired with a long sting just incase.

    With max loads or a different case combination firing a bullet that has been pushed back and the subsequent reduced case volume firing it could be very dangerous. That why a one size all approach may not be the best.

    For stuck bullets I generally use 0-1 tool steel polished rod with the point profiled to match the bullet point.
    2nd Amendment of the U.S. Constitution. - "A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed."

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check