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Thread: Hammer

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I use a plastic tipped mallet. I'm guessing its 4 to 6oz. Its as old as I am and I don't know where it was purchased. This works well on molds up to 4 cavity. I don't have a mold larger than that.

    I sometimes cast with 2 other friends. One of them uses a hickory tool handle. The other settled on a plastic tipped hammer close to the weight of mine after he tried several other things.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by redriverhunter View Post
    a harbor freight hammer handle is what is use rrh
    Mine is a Sears hardwood replacement hammer handle also (for a claw hammer) . I hold the small end and strike the sprue plate with the fat end . After 40 years I replaced my first one , simply because my dad had a new replacement handle and wasn't going to use it...40 year old one still worked but I don't look a gift handle in the mouth .
    Certified Cajun
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  3. #23
    Boolit Master


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    Old Hickory hatchet handle for 35+yrs. Got stolen, couldn't find another that had the same balance. Now use a plastic mallet 6-8oz that I bought 30yrs ago for my kids to hammer in their tent stakes.
    It's Bright Orange
    Last edited by Walks; 03-29-2020 at 04:36 PM. Reason: Spelling
    I HATE auto-correct

    Happiness is a Warm GUN & more ammo to shoot in it.

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  4. #24
    Boolit Man
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    Used sledge hammer handle cut in about 12 " sections
    Oklahoma. Quite possibly the reddest state in the U.S.A. 77 counties, 2 elections, and not a single one went for B.O. Uh make that 3 elections, we didn't care much for Hillary either.

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy coloraydo's Avatar
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    10" piece of the butt end of a pool stick.
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  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    GONRA uses a chunk of Scrap Lumber for decades....

  7. #27
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Divedigger View Post
    What's the best hammer, knocker or whatever to open sprue plates, I've used dogwood but it gets beat up after a while. What about the replaceable nylon face hammers?
    The BEST hammer is no hammer at all. After the first couple of pours, breaking the sprue with a gloved hand is all thats needed.
    More "This is what happened when I,,,,," and less "What would happen if I,,,,"

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  8. #28
    Boolit Master RKJ's Avatar
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    I use a piece of (about 12") hardwood wrapped in duct tape. The tape cuts down on the wood splinters and cushions my hand.

  9. #29
    Boolit Master

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    I like the answer Hamish gave
    ..

  10. #30
    Boolit Buddy
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    Dead blow hammer picked up at the state fair "super deal" tool table. Works great and if it ever wears out I will buy another.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master
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    Attachment 259474

    Here is how I fixed my Hickory hammer after it was getting wore down and full of splinters.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walks View Post
    Old Hickory hatchet handle for 35+yrs. Got stolen, couldn't find another that had the same balance. Now use a plastic mallet 6-8oz that I bought 30yrs ago for my kids to hammer in their tent stakes.
    It's Bright Orange
    It simply amazes me what a thief will steal... an old hatchet handle....
    Certified Cajun
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    " Let's Go Brandon !"

  13. #33
    Boolit Grand Master
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    For years I used an old dead blow hammer (about 8 ounce), then I stupidly destroyed it driving a steel punch. I then tried the twist the sprue plate with a leather glove trick, this works well once the mold is up to temp.

    I recently found a plastic (nylon, whatever) teardrop shaped mallet at Harbor Fright that works even better than the deadblow. Not quite as heavy so it is easy to keep in my hand while operating the bottom pour control to fill the mold.

    Robert

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    An old surveyor had a tow sack of Hickory hammer handles (seconds) he used as survey stakes. He gave me it to me. I use one of them.
    Britons shall never be slaves.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    I had to replace the handles on my wheelbarrow a few years ago after they rotted out at the front end near the wheel. I cut off the handle ends at about 12" long and these work well enough that they will out-last me.

  16. #36
    Boolit Master Drm50's Avatar
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    For years been using a handle for a cross cut saw. It was old and in the junk in my grandmas basement when I started in 60s

  17. #37
    Boolit Mold
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    I been using old cut down squeegee handle from gas station,just ask them to save you one when when they change them out
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  18. #38
    Boolit Master Dapaki's Avatar
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    Hickory hammer handle from Menards. 20 years of service and still not shredded!

  19. #39
    Boolit Master
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    What we need as a mold hammer is something handy, durable, hard enough to work well and still soft enough to not damage the steel sprue plate and the mold handle's hinge.

    Hardwood sticks like fat dowel rods/hammer handles work pretty well and they're cheap. Down side is wood batters up pretty fast; up side is wood's easy to replace. So, sticks work pretty good but not perfect.

    Soft face (dead blow) hammers (lead/plastic/leather) work well but even they eventually batter up and are (relatively) expensive. Soft face hammers require a harder hit than is "best" for the molds and, in use, it takes a moment to insure the hammer face is properly orientated before it's swung; very good but still not perfect.

    After long using a variety of mold hammers I happened upon a short piece of 1" copper pipe and suddenly had a good idea to use it to make a "soft" metal club for casting. I cut off a 10-11" section and installed a cap fitting on one end, then held it vertical and filled 3 or 4 inches with wheel weight metal. I'd originally intended to jam a few inches of 1" dowel as a handle into the open end but soon found I didn't need anything better than the pipe itself.

    Now, after several years of use, the copper pipe has a lot of small dings around the heavy end but nothing that degrades its performance and no mold damage has occurred. I consider it perfect for my casting needs!

  20. #40
    Boolit Master

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    I just use a gloved hand to open the mold... Never did like the idea of beating on a boolit mold myself.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check