I'm thinking about buying a S&W 686 Performance Center Pro Series 4" barrel NOT PLUS or the 686
Standard 6" barrel. Both 6 rounds cylinder. Anyone shooting these??? Pros/Cons, problems, really need to know. General review opinions. Thanks
I'm thinking about buying a S&W 686 Performance Center Pro Series 4" barrel NOT PLUS or the 686
Standard 6" barrel. Both 6 rounds cylinder. Anyone shooting these??? Pros/Cons, problems, really need to know. General review opinions. Thanks
I like mine it's a -6 model, I've had no issues with the gun at all. It's out with me most every trip to the back yard range shooting a lot of target load wadcutters, target load swc's and I always finish with a couple cylinders of 125gr 357 magnum loads. This is my second 686 and I have no complaint about either one.
Jeff
I have the six-inch standard and the five-inch PC model with the ventilated rib. I much prefer the PC gun. It is light, and points well for me. At present I'm shooting 5000 rounds per year with it. If I buy another one (and I may soon), it will be the PC 4" ventilated rib version.
I have a 3", It's my go to revolver.
Thanks for the info. Jeff, Tatume, Prcshooter, do you know the cylinder chamber diameter and groove diameter of your pistols???
Mine is a 6" , 6 shot. I've had it just over a year, I really like it so far. I recently mounted an Ultra Dot on it, to help aging eyes, and have only had a chance to put about 20 rounds through it.
To answer the op's question though, I'd buy the same gun again if I had to do it over.
I have had three of them....well, one was a 586 (blued, same gun). All three were 6" models and one was the 686+. Having owned two Bill Davis custom built revolvers that were called "one holers, here's what I found. All three of my guns would shoot as well, or nearly as well as the Bill Davis guns. That's saying a lot. I have shot groups with the Davis guns at fifty yards that put five shots in an inch. Most all groups were close to an inch, and that was with open sights. I consider the L-frame S&W guns about as good as anything ever put out of the factory. One of my Davis guns was built on a Model 27, so that's saying a lot. I had a Python back in the late 70's and I wouldn't trade my 686's for one based on accuracy being the determining factor.
I consider the S&W 686 the best .38/.357 ever available I currently have three:
CS-1 (4”), a 686 standard with 4” barrel and a 686 with 6” barrel. I have NO plans to downsize. I have owned most of the better .38/.357’s out there and have shot the rest. My 686’s are just flat out superb both on the Range and in the Field!
FWIW
Dale53
Mines a early 4" no dash model , shoots great bit heavy even with a good belt and holster to hike round with but that weight soaks up recoil with heavier loads
If you find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck!
Why limit yourself to six rounds and not eight? Just curious.
I have owned several different 686 revolvers. They all shot well. The one I now own is a 686+ with the lock and the ECM barrel. It shoots just as well as the others with both jacketed and cast.
I,too, used to look down on the new guns with the lock and different rifling. Experience has taught me not to worry about it. The guns still work the same, at least, for me.
Have always liked them. Have a 6" 5 series set up for PPC that is a laser. Would not think a second if I stumbled across an earlier 6 series 4".
I have a 6" and a 3". The 6" I use for target, plinking and hunting. The 3" I use for target and winter time EDC. Super accurate and a pleasure to shoot even with warm magnums. Would not trade them for any other .357 wheel guns.
Have an early no dash 6". Still the most accurate handgun I own and that has been/is quite a few. Totally reliable (factory mainspring) and just a pleasant shooting handgun. I hope to find a 45 Colt that shoots as good but not so far. Will keep it until I find another handgun I can shoot more accurately.
Ive had four 686s over the years all excellent and good shooters with cast or jackieted
currently have two a old 6" with fireing pin in hammer and a newer 5" 7 shot unfluted cyl was a special edtion of some sorts.
I also have the S&W PC Jerry special and two 66s 2.5" and 4 " and a 649
What is your objection to the seven-round models? The odd number of chambers eliminates the weak link in revolver cylinders. The locking bolt notches are moved from the thinnest location to the thickest. The seven shot models are stronger than the six shot models (not that either one has been found to be lacking).
Thanks Tatume, all the cylinder throats in my 38's pin gauge .356 and the barrels pin gauge .346 on the lands. difference between 6 shot and 7 shot is difference between in-stock and ain't no distributors got none. S&W's in stock are few and far between around here. I found the ones I'm looking at 30 miles south of home and found one(1) 60 miles west of here. What loads do you mostly shoot???
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |